It would be a stretch to call Limerick Lane an up-and-coming winery. Its original vineyard was planted in 1910, and newer plantings in the 1970s established it as a star in the emerging California wine industry. In short, it is a historic California winery with a sterling reputation.

Nevertheless, it is a winery to watch. When brothers Michael and Tom Collins decided to sell in 2009, after three decades of stewardship, they approached second-generation winemaker Jake Bilbro about buying the iconic winery and famed Collins Vineyard.

Bilbro grew up in the wine business; he learned viticulture and winemaking at his father's knee at the well-regarded Marietta Cellars. It took him two years to muster the financing, and in 2011, he swung a deal to finalize the purchase.

Since taking over, the talented Bilbro has energized Limerick Lane, producing stunning zinfandels, historically the winery's most coveted wines, and an array of Rhone-style varietals and blends.

Earlier this year I was impressed by Limerick Lane's beautifully balanced zins at the annual Zinfandel Advocates & Producers Conference in San Francisco. I spoke to Jake and expressed an interest in tasting Limerick Lane's Rhone-style wines.

The first of those to cross my desk was the 2015 "Headpruned Block" syrah. It's a stunner. I am comfortable saying it is one of the finest California syrahs I've ever tasted. I believe it is safe to say Limerick Lane is in good hands and the future looks very bright. The following is my review of the Headpruned Block syrah:

Limerick Lane 2015 Syrah, Headpruned Block, Russian River Valley ($50) — Limerick Lane is reliving past glories under new management and the guiding hand of winemaker Jake Bilbro. This vintage of the Headpruned Block syrah is a brilliant example of what's going on at this historic Sonoma County winery. Beautifully structured and balanced, with layers of blueberry and blackberry fruit and a judicious note of wood spice, this is one of the finest California syrahs available today. Rating: 95

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Muriel 2015 Fincas de la Villa Crianza, Rioja DOCa, Spain ($15.99) — This earthy Rioja shows notes of licorice and dried herbs, firm tannins and a lovely spice note on the finish. It's not as ready to drink now as many reds from this vintage, but another year or two in the cellar will fix that. Serve it with grilled meats or strong cheeses. Rating: 88.

Tasting Notes

Dutton-Goldfield 2015 Pinot Noir, Azaya Ranch, Marin County ($62) — This beauty from Marin County, north of San Francisco, exhibits intense red fruit aromas with a hint of violets and a touch of wood spice. The tannins are moderate, but this wine is beautifully structured and stands to develop nicely over the next two to three years. Rating: 93.

Dutton-Goldfield 2015 Pinot Noir, Dutton Ranch/Freestone Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($72) — A beautiful effort from Dutton-Goldfield, the Freestone Vineyard pinot walks a fine line between power and elegance. This is a richly layered pinot that maintains its elegance throughout. The dominant note is cherry, with earthy forest floor undertones and supple tannins through the finish. Rating: 93.

J. Lohr 2015 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($35) — Jerry Lohr is the king of cabernet sauvignon in Paso Robles, and the Hilltop is one of his finest. Showing the richness that is typical of the region and sophisticated nuances like the note of cedar and graphite on the nose, the 2015 Hilltop cab is a gem, especially for the price. With layers of dark fruits and spice and smooth, supple tannins, it's a meaty cabernet you can enjoy tonight of five to seven years from now. Rating: 93.

Rodney Strong 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Sonoma County ($40) — Showing complex aromas of red and black fruits, this latest reserve from Rodney Strong combines power and elegance, making for an impressive cabernet that dazzles at the first sip. The tannins are supple, and the finish is long and lingering. Bravo! Rating: 93.

Siduri 2015 Pinot Noir, Muirfield Vineyard, Willamette Valley ($50) — Light-bodied and slightly lacking in color, Siduri's Muirfield pinot is a bit deceptive because it's anything but short on flavor. Delicate notes of cherry and spice dominate. Modest tannins make for enjoyable near-term consumption. Rating: 89.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.