Scattered Peaks is the pet project of Derek Benham, an avid surfer ("scattered peaks" is a surfing term that describes sets of waves) and a bit of a daredevil in his private life. When it comes to wine, however, Benham is all business.

His company, Purple Wines, has forged a reputation for solid wines at modest prices with brands such as Raeburn, Four Vines and Avalon. The company sources grapes from the Central Coast of California to Sonoma County's Russian River Valley.

A few years ago, Benham decided he wanted to have a Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon and launched Scattered Peaks in 2015. A couple of years later, in a stroke of genius, he hired longtime Napa Valley winemaker Joel Aiken to oversee the project. Aiken had spent more than a quarter-century making wine at the iconic Beaulieu Vineyards before striking out on his own several years ago.

Aiken's first vintage was 2017. He made a Napa Valley cab ($40) using grapes from one of his favorite appellations, Rutherford, blended with grapes from the nearby Pope Valley (a sub-appellation of the Napa Valley) and a few other spots. It's a beautifully structured Napa cab that's a steal considering the price of Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon these days.

But the real news was the launch of a small-lot program with the 2017 vintage, which was off to a great start. The grapes are sourced from two very special vineyards, the iconic Morisoli Vineyard in Rutherford and the Sage Ridge Vineyard near Pritchard Hill, at the base of Howell Mountain. Only 900 six-packs (450 cases) were produced, and the wine retails for $125.

It's a sensational Napa cab that will give the likes of Spottswoode, Stag's Leap, Cakebread and Duckhorn a run for their money. Better yet, plans are in the works to produce a separate wine from each vineyard.

"It's a fun project," said Aiken. "They say get the grapes you want and make the wine you want."

When your winemaker's name is Joel Aiken, that's sound advice.

Tasting Notes

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Milagros de Figuero 2015 Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero, Spain ($99.99) — This is Figuero's hot-rod expression of tempranillo, and a souped-up version it is. Richly layered with aromas of blackberry, blueberry and mocha, it was allowed to rest in barrel for 16 months before bottling, a technique that imparts notes of baking spice and oak vanillin. Complex and ripe without losing its structure, this is a wine to lay down in the cellar another five to 10 years though immensely enjoyable at this early stage. Rating: 95.

Paraduxx 2016 Howell Mountain Red Wine, Napa Valley ($82) — This winery was founded on the premise that not every red blend from the Napa Valley had to necessarily follow the Bordeaux model. For its Howell Mountain red, Paraduxx goes full Aussie with a combination of cabernet sauvignon and syrah that comes from the playbook of the great Australian red Penfolds Grange. The result is a blockbuster red with uncommon depth and richness yet beautiful structure for long-term cellaring. Notes of blackberry, blueberry and leather dominate, with a whiff of lead pencil and oak vanillin. It's brilliantly done. Rating: 95.

Ehlers Estate 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($65) — This vintage from Ehlers Estate showcases the ripe characteristics of cabernet from the upper Napa Valley, where the growing conditions are typically warmer. The Ehlers cabernet exhibits remarkable richness and density, shows rich black-fruit aromas and offers a hint of graphite (some would say pencil lead) for good measure. It's beautiful to drink now but a good bet that it will age very well over the next five to 10 years. Rating: 94.

Vallado 2017 Organic Quinta do Orgal, Douro DOC, Portugal ($39.99) — Dry red wines from the Douro region, famous for its sweet Port wines, continue to raise eyebrows. They are some of the finest red wines in the world. They age exceptionally well. And in general, prices are well behind the quality curve. This beauty from Vallado is an excellent example. A blend of touriga nacional (the money grape of the Port region), touriga franca and sousao, this inky, massive red is built for the long haul, showing impressive depth and powerful structure, aromas of blackberry and cassis, and a generous touch of wood spice. Added bonus: The vineyard sources are 100% organic. Rating: 93.

Dutton Goldfield 2017 Pinot Noir, Ven Der Kamp Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain ($68) — This vintage from the Van Der Kamp vineyard is made for early consumption. That means it's ready to drink now, showing bright flavors of raspberry and cherry with soft tannins and a full, round palate. Earthy aromas of forest floor and notes of wood spice provide additional complexity. Rating: 91.

Lucas & Lewellen 2017 Hidden Asset, Santa Barbara County ($27.99) — This eclectic red blend (malbec, merlot, syrah, petite sirah and cabernet franc) delivers aromas of blackberry, blueberry and currant with surprisingly supple tannins and an inviting dollop of wood spice. It's made to drink now, and the price is modest for a red blend of this quality. Rating: 91.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. Email Robert at [email protected].

Photo credit: Kym Ellis