By Victor Block
Some vacationers soak up the sun on ocean beaches that range in color from white to black and green. Nearby, skiers speed down the snow-covered slopes of a dormant volcano. Other people check out a surreal moonscape of hardened lava.
If this sounds like a continent-wide choice of activities, in a way it is. The island of Hawaii resembles a miniature continent. Even its weather replicates that of a larger landmass, with 11 of the earth's 13 climate zones ranging from tropic to subarctic.
Because Hawaii Island shares its name with that of the state, to avoid confusion it's often referred to as the Big Island, and with good reason. It's almost twice the size of the other Hawaiian islands combined.
With that expanse and its volcanic origin, visitors find a miniature world that encompasses virtually every kind of landscape. Cactus-dotted desert stretches out near steamy rain forests. Barren lava fields contrast with waterfalls plunging into deep valleys. Looming over it all are two of the tallest mountains in the world and Pele, the goddess of volcanoes.
Volcanoes National Park is one of the few places to come face-to-face with an active volcano. Mauna Loa is one of the most active on earth, having erupted 33 times in the past 175 years, most recently in 1984. While presently dormant, scientists tell us it's likely to erupt again.
Not to be outdone by its neighbor, Kilauea lays claim to the title of world's most active volcano. It has been continuously erupting since 1983, and last year the lava flow invaded populated areas and prompted an evacuation by residents.
Those massive mountains also hold another record: They measure more than 32,000 feet from their base far below the sea to the summits above the clouds, so both are taller than Mount Everest. Because of their height, enough snow falls on the volcanoes during winter for skiing and snowboarding.
In fact, each of the Hawaiian islands was created by volcanoes on the ocean floor that erupted and eventually emerged above the sea. Reigning over the mountains is Madame Pele, the Fire Goddess of Hawaiian mythology. Her domain rewards visitors with a show that extends beyond the fire pits, blistering lava flows and steam vents.
The Crater Rim Drive that encircles Kilauea leads to several of the park's major attractions. The Jaggar Museum provides a detailed introduction to volcanoes, and the overlook outside offers a breathtaking panoramic view.
The Thurston Lava Tube was formed when an underground river of molten lava ran out of its channel and the walls cooled and hardened. A stroll through the tunnel leads to a verdant fern forest.
A dramatic example of the destructive power a volcano can unleash is found along the aptly named Devastation Trail. A path leads through an area that was buried beneath falling cinder from lava fountains during an eruption of Kilauea in 1959. The ground lies under a gray cinder blanket, interspersed by occasional bursts of green foliage and the lonely splash of color of a small but hardy flower seeking its place in the sun.
In addition to volcanoes and the usual sun-and-sand vacation activities, there are plenty of other reasons to visit the island of Hawaii. For fishermen, waters off its Kona Coast are the best in the world for catching blue marlin. Much bigger sea life drops by during whale-watching season, which runs from December through May. While Humpbacks have top billing, it's also possible to spot sperm and melon-headed whales and five dolphin species.
For people who prefer to keep their feet on firm ground, hiking opportunities are outstanding. Volcanoes National Park alone offers 150 miles of trails that cross a crater floor and lead over lava fields.
The story of the island's history is as intriguing as what greets visitors today.
The earliest settlements were established by Polynesians who arrived after a long ocean voyage in large double-hulled canoes. Estimated dates of their arrival span hundreds of years, from the fourth to the eighth centuries.
Clues to the lifestyle of the ancient Hawaiian civilization that developed abound. They include remnants of villages, temples (heiau), agricultural mounds and numerous other archeological remains.
Some relics, like royal fish ponds constructed to satisfy noble palates and petroglyph lava rock carvings, have been incorporated into the grounds of hotels. Large fields of ancient carvings also are scattered throughout the island, including more than 23,000 in Volcanoes National Park.
The images depict humans, birds and other recognizable forms as well as undecipherable lines and dots. Scientists believe that they record births, deaths and other major events.
One of the most intriguing places to explore the past is the Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historic Park, a reconstructed royal compound. Known as the "City of Refuge," it served as a sanctuary for people who broke religious laws and others who angered the gods. Transgressors who escaped their pursuers and reached this sacred place were absolved by a priest and allowed to go free. The site encompasses temples, sacred burial places, petroglyphs and other reminders of ancient times.
Historical tidbits also await exploration on drives around the island. For example, the Mamalahoa Kona Heritage Corridor follows the route of a foot path that once encircled the island, passing shrines and other architectural treasures.
Those seeking variations on the historical theme also find enticing alternatives. Coffee-drinkers will think they've found caffeine heaven when they take their first sip of Kona coffee. Missionaries introduced the beverage to Hawaii in 1828, and today beans are grown at more than 600 farms on the Big Island. The combination of climate, rich volcanic soil and loving care by farmers produces a brew that is world-renowned. Some farms offer tours and tastings.
Another chapter of island history comes alive in the Waipio Valley, a six-mile-by-one-mile gash in the land rimmed by 2,000-foot-high cliffs over which numerous waterfalls cascade. The meandering river they create gave the valley its name, which means "curved waters." Also known as "Valley of the Kings," it once was home to many rulers and contains remains of important temples. Visitors may view the valley from a small overlook or take a guided tour into it.
In contrast with the view at the bottom of a deep valley is the opportunity for a look at the stars as few people have seen them. The Big Island is home to one of the most renowned astronomical sites on the planet, Mauna Kea Observatory. Perched above the cloud cover on a dormant volcano, its powerful telescopes are trained on the sky. Because of the high elevation, clear air and minimal light pollution, the stars resemble glitter scattered overhead. Guided tours include transportation, warm parkas and dinner.
An opportunity to peer at stars in a way that few people have isn't the major reason why most people visit the island of Hawaii, but it's one in a long list of attractions that appeal to various interests well beyond the beaches, no matter what the color of the sand.
WHEN YOU GO
For more information about the Big Island, call 800-464-2924 or visit www.gohawaii.com/hawaii-island.
Victor Block is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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