By Patricia Woeber

For years my traveling friends had praised Bali, the tropical island in the Indian Ocean, for its beautiful beaches and indigenous people known for their kindness and spirituality. There was gamelan music, they told me, along with legendary dances, skilled handicrafts, art and a tasty cuisine.

Now I know what they were talking about, and while I was there I also learned that the hotels in Bali, whether deluxe or budget, deepen the experience with their architecture and reflections of local culture. Time spent at a resort can be as much fun as sightseeing or shopping.

On Nusa Dua Beach, where there is swimming, snorkeling and scuba diving, deluxe hotels include The Conrad (part of the Hilton group), Westin, Sheraton, Grand Hyatt, Nusa Dua, Amanusa and St. Regis. Sanur Beach for swimming and canoeing has the Bali Hyatt. Jimbaran Bay, with lovely views of fishing boats, boasts the Ritz-Carlton Hotel.

The five-star Four Seasons' thatched-roof villas, clustered in seven villages, are surrounded by 35 acres of tropical gardens and have views of Jimbaran Bay. Each villa has a private pool and is reached on stone paths from the beach through the luxuriant gardens.

On lovely, chic Seminyak Beach, popular for diving, fishing and body surfing, are two superb resorts: the Oberoi and the recently opened Anantara. Kuta's long beach attracts the younger and backpacking crowed, so hotels lean toward budget prices.

I stayed at the excellent Le Meridien Nirwana Golf and Spa Resort, located at Tanah Lot — a distance from the beaches. I also visited three Amanresorts, recognized for their heightened sense of aesthetics and sensitivity toward the local culture. Superlatives describe their elegance, spacious layouts, concern with details and locations in the loveliest surroundings.

The Amanusa gives a view from a garden lookout to the Indian Ocean. A large pool and separate thatched-roof suites are reached between stone walls where flowering foliage gives off the sweet fragrance of frangipani. While I was there I ate Nasi Campur — my favorite meal of the trip — a mixed seafood and chicken dish served on a mat of coconut fronds. The sauce contained fresh coconut cream, chili, lemongrass, garlic, ginger and lime. To my surprise, I also enjoyed iced chrysanthemum tea.

There I had a Reiki spa treatment with Reiki Master I Made Warmana, who explained the method of healing through universal energy. There are two kinds of energy, he told me: negative, which manifests as sickness and disharmony, and positive, which confers health and harmony. He rebalanced my well-being and taught me how to access harmony.

A few days later, up in the hills of Ubud, found me at Amandari. Its open-air lobby was designed after a wantilan, a village meeting place. The resort won architectural awards and made "Bali style" — elegant pavilion courtyards — internationally famous. The restaurant overlooks a stunning infinity pool that follows the curve of the ridge. Lunch was a duck salad with fresh green bean sprouts and chocolate cake with passion-fruit sorbet. I topped it off with a refreshing red hibiscus drink.

Amankila overlooks terraced pools, its own private beach and the Lombok Strait, which is great for snorkeling. This resort is a hideaway, popular with celebrities and VIPs looking for privacy.

When I moved to Ubud in the mountains, the culture and hilly surroundings determined a different character to the resorts. The Four Seasons at Sayan is known for its spa escapes and is unforgettable for the famous floating lotus pond, the sacred Ayung River and the mountain mists — all of which add to the magic. Ubud Hanging Gardens is surrounded by greenery as Bali's lush hilly jungle cradles the elegant suites with private plunge pools.

Meals in Bali constantly offered new experiences of tastes and textures. All of the deluxe hotels serve Indonesian, Asian and international dishes. In Ubud, two restaurants are praised for their chefs' specialties: Chris Salens of Mozaic offers outstanding Indonesian dishes. At Bumbu Bali, Heinz von Holzen serves Balinese dishes with fresh spices and ingredients.

In Ubud, popular fun eateries for those on a budget are Bebek Bengil Restaurant for crispy duck and Ibu Oka Restaurant for Babi Guling — roast pork. Casa Luna, Cafe Royal and the Lotus Cafe also offer budget-priced local dishes.

IF YOU GO

Getting there: Carriers from the United States to Bali include Cathay Pacific, Japan Air Lines, Qantas, China Airlines, Thai Airways, Korean Air, American, Continental and United. I flew on Singapore Airlines from Los Angeles: www.singaporeair.com/lax.

Where to stay: Le Meridien Nirwana Golf and Spa Resort, $190 to $900 per night: www.lemeridien.com/bali.

Deluxe resorts such as The Conrad (Hilton), Westin, Sheraton, Grand Hyatt, Nusa Dua, Oberoi, Anantara, Four Seasons and Ritz Carlton have fabulous properties on beaches with multiple pools and spas. Some package room rates start at $215.

Rooms at Amanresorts run from $700 to $1,150 per night: www.amanresorts.com

Budget rooms at Kuta Beach average $50.

Patricia Woeber is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.