"The Soda Fountain: Floats, Sundaes, Egg Creams & More —- Flavors and Traditions of an American Original" By Gia Giasullo and Peter Freeman (Ten Speed, $19.99).

As temperatures begin to peak, who hasn't wished they owned their own soda fountain or had one just a block away? Owning "The Soda Fountain," the new cookbook by brother-and-sister team Gia Giasullo and Peter Freeman, proprietors of the famed Brooklyn Farmacy & Soda Fountain, may be the next best thing.

This is a "cool" subject in every way possible. The book includes more than 70 retro beverage recipes from the authors' beloved New York City business they call a "revival soda fountain" and the special stories they tell. Soda fountains may not be on every main street as they were a century ago, but fortunately, these two are experts. They make it a breeze to both learn about and prepare classics like floats, egg creams, milkshakes and homemade syrups for sodas.

Fortunately, this photo-filled book includes everything from vintage ads to reprints of Norman Rockwell's legendary work, in addition to tales about the lively history of soda fountains, from their beginnings linked to pharmacies to their decline as soda companies grew into national giants.

Interesting facts abound:

"The dire economics of the Great Depression dictated the path for the soda foundation: it had to cut costs and it had to serve lunch. Some fountains had been doing so for a decade in order to better serve the saloon crowd. But in the 1930s, when so many customers stretched their dollar to fill their bellies, the five-cent soda and five-cent ice cream made way on the menu for the nickel hamburger ...

"With nourishment a national pursuit, fountain owners stocked up on new ingredients: tomato malteds were pushed, sundaes were served on a bed of lettuce ... "

This should be a fun cookbook for you and the mini-yous in your household. When the Tools section calls for straws, ice cream dishes, ice cream scoops, whipped cream dispensers, soda spoons ("also known as iced tea spoons") and jiggers for measuring soda syrups, you know you are in for good times.

And there is probably no more fun way for the tyke crowd to learn what an egg cream is than by mixing one up themselves (under your supervision) and immediately enjoying the fruits of their labor. They will see it's not eggs that put the "egg" in "egg cream," but the seltzer that bubbles up the milk into a state that will leave you with one memorable "white foam mustache."

ORANGE EGG CREAM

1/4 cup, plus 2 tablespoons (3 ounces), cold whole milk

3/4 cup (6 ounces) plain cold seltzer

3 tablespoons (1 1/2 ounces) orange syrup

Yields 1 serving.

Pour the milk into (preferably an egg cream) glass (see Note) and add seltzer until froth comes up to the top of the glass. Pour the syrup into the center of the glass and then gently push the back of a spoon into the center of the drink. Rock the spoon back and forth, keeping most of the action at the bottom of the glass, to incorporate the syrup without wrecking the froth. Serve immediately.

Note: In the book, authors give antique examples and resource lists. In lieu of that, consider using tall, thick glasses that leave enough room for the seltzer/milk to bubble. Keep all soda glasses chilled for 20 minutes beforehand in order to help retain bubbles.

ORANGE SYRUP

1/2 cup (4 ounces) water

1 cup, plus 2 tablespoons (9 ounces) cane sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons freshly grated orange zest

1/4 cup (2 ounces) freshly squeezed orange juice

3/4 cup (6 ounces) freshly squeezed tangerine juice

Yields 2 cups.

Put the 1/2 cup water in a saucepan and pour the sugar into the water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring gently from time to time to release any sugar that may be stuck to the bottom of the pan. Cook until the sugar has dissolved, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the orange zest. Let the syrup cool to room temperature. Add the orange and tangerine juices and stir. Chill before serving.

Store the syrup in covered glass jars or plastic containers in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. The syrup may also be frozen in plastic containers for up to 3 months. If frozen, allow to thaw in the refrigerator overnight before using.

To make orange soda: Fill a 12-ounce glass halfway with ice, add 1/4 cup (2 ounces) of orange syrup, top with seltzer and stir gently with a soda spoon to combine. To make orangeade, follow the directions for making an orange soda, substituting flat water for the seltzer.

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "After-Work Gourmet" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.