A frequent lament of the Champagne crowd is the fact that too many wine enthusiasts subdue their thirst for Champagne until there is something to celebrate. The Champagne toast is a staple of New Year's Eve and weddings throughout the year.

That's an exalted position for the bubbly beverage, but the practical result means that as much as three-quarters of all Champagne and sparkling wine sales occur in the run-up to the holidays.

Of course, the French have no one to blame but themselves. Champagne only became chic in France when the royal court began to serve it at coronations. No wonder everyone else views it as a celebratory drink.

It is unclear when Champagne and its sparkling cousins came to dominate New Year's celebrations, but it's a safe bet that its somewhat exclusive grip on the holidays has something to do with the price. Champagne is expensive to produce. To qualify as the real thing it must be made in the Champagne region of France and age for a minimum of 15 months prior to disgorgement.

The better and more expensive Champagnes age far longer. The investment in aging Champagne and top-notch New World sparkling wines dictates a higher price. This may add to the mystique of bubbly wines, but at the same time it slows down sales.

The most coveted Champagnes and prestigious cuvee sparkling wines from the United States range in price from $100 to $400. The most iconic Champagne, Dom Perignon, will set you back nearly $200. If money is no object, go ahead and splurge on it. It's a fantastic Champagne. But you can have almost as much fun for far less.

The following is a short list of outstanding Champagnes and domestic sparkling wines that I would have no trouble serving to even the most discerning guests on New Year's Eve.

Domaine Carneros Cuvee de la Pompadour, Carneros ($35) — This wine is a tribute to Madame de Pompadour, who is said to have introduced Champagne to French royalty. It is consistently the finest in domestic sparkling rose. With a roughly equal blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, Cuvee de la Pompadour is renowned for its elegance. Bright notes of red fruit, and exquisite balance and finesse characterize it as a chic aperitif. Rating: 93.

Duval-Leroy Rose Prestige, Premier Cru Brut, Champagne, France ($80) — The richness and depth of Duval-Leroy's Rose Prestige is a tribute its vineyard selection. Only premier cru and grand cru terroirs are used, delivering a brut Champagne with an uncommon intensity of flavor and a mouth-filling richness on the palate. Aromas of cherry and strawberry dominate in this pinot noir-dominant cuvee (90 percent), which rivals the best from such stars of rose Champagne as Billecart-Salmon and Laurent-Perrier. This is my Champagne splurge for the holiday season! Rating: 96.

Gloria Ferrer Brut, Sonoma ($22) — Perhaps the best bargain and most underrated in California sparkling wine, the Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut offers tangy citrus notes with a hint of brioche, excellent balance and good persistence through the finish. A gold medal award-winner at the Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition in September, it is yet another star in the Gloria Ferrer stable of sparkling wines. If you are feeling flush, you might also want to try the 2007 Royal Cuvee ($39) or the 2005 Carneros Cuvee ($75). Rating: 90.

Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial, Champagne, France ($60) — In recent years, Moet has lowered the dosage in its Brut Imperial to create a drier, more refined style that is increasingly in vogue throughout the world of Champagne. This bottling was a platinum award-winner at the recent Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition. Rating: 93.

Piper-Heidsieck Brut, Champagne, France ($45) — No other major house in Champagne has made the positive strides seen at Piper-Heidsieck over the past decade. Piper quality was spotty for a period, when its reserve stocks dwindled, and its nonvintage brut suffered as a result. A concerted effort to rebuild the depleted reserve stocks in several excellent vintages has restored much of the shine to the tarnished Piper-Heidsieck image. At this price, it represents one of the greatest bargains in Champagne today. Rating: 91.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.