Regular "Wine Talk" readers know that most weeks I offer a selection of wine recommendations. What may be less well-known is how I choose which wines to highlight.
Over the course of the year I taste thousands of wine samples for review consideration. A small percentage of those are flawed in some way and easily dismissed.
The vast majority are perfectly fine, which is a tribute to the strides made in viticulture and winemaking over the past three decades. Even large commercial wineries routinely produce splendid wines that are perfectly acceptable no matter the setting or occasion.
Culling through this abundance of riches to arrive at a recommendation is clearly a judgment call. I sometimes take a pass on perfectly fine wines that fail to move me because I can't get past the price. Other times I will recommend somewhat expensive wines because I believe they possess unique qualities that justify the price.
Whether a wine retails for $10 or $80, my instincts tilt in the direction of value. I'm constantly looking for wines that over deliver — a $10 wine that can hold its own against $20 wines, a $40 wine that can cut it in the $75 crowd and so on. Hence, you will typically find a broad range of prices in the "Wine Talk" reviews.
No matter the price, however, know that I firmly believe that each pick is a wine that would shine even in more expensive company.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Navarro Vineyards 2015 Muscat Blanc, Anderson Valley ($19) — Muscat is a tricky wine to work with if the goal is to produce an elegant dry white, which is likely the reason more vintners don't try. Navarro has had tremendous success with the grape variety, however, and the 2015 is just another in a long line. This vintage delivers the distinct floral nose for which muscat is famous, and on the palate the wine shows notes of ripe melon and spice without the cloying sweetness of most muscats. The tricky part is fermenting to dryness without the wine turning bitter, but Navarro clearly has the knack and the know-how, and the result is a beautiful summer white that's quite different — a welcome change of pace. Rating: 93.
Graffigna 2014 Malbec Reserva "Centenario," San Juan, Argentina ($13) — Malbec's affinity for the climate, soils and elevation of Argentina is expressed in this exceptional reserve from Graffigna. It shows dense, black fruits on the palate, a thread of enticing minerality and hints of peppery spice. At this price, it's a genuine steal. Rating: 90.
Torresella Extra Dry Prosecco DOC, Italy ($16) — I generally find extra dry prosecco a bit sweet for my taste, though there are exceptions. Torresella is an exceptional exception, showing exquisite balance combined with freshness and purity of fruit. Notes of peach and citrus dominate, and the finish is long and clean. (Note: Extra dry bubbly is actually sweeter by percentage than brut.) Rating: 90.
Tasting Notes
Shafer Vineyards 2014 Chardonnay, Red Shoulder Ranch, Carneros ($52) — Red Shoulder Ranch is undoubtedly among the finest chardonnay vineyards in the United States. Shafer has an unbroken string of successful vintages, and in 2014 it continued the chain with a remarkable chardonnay that allows this vineyard to shine. The beauty, of course, is its ability to have it both ways: Layered richness and complexity combines with firm structure. The 2014 shows delicious notes of lemon oil, crunchy apple and spice. Rating: 96.
MacRostie 2013 Pinot Noir, Wildcat Mountain, Sonoma Coast ($54) — MacRostie's Wildcat Mountain pinot from this vintage is a firmly structured beauty that exhibits notes of violets and spice on the nose. It has layers of blueberry and strawberry fruit and a fresh acidity that lifts the flavors. It finishes with a touch of leafy earthiness. This is a stunning wine that will only get better. Rating: 95.
Wild Ridge 2013 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($50) — This Sonoma Coast pinot is exceptionally promising, offering a floral nose with earthy overtones, hints of spice and layered red and blue fruits. With fresh acidity and smooth, integrated tannins, it's easy to drink now, but will hold in a temperature-controlled cellar for another seven to 10 years. Rating: 94.
MacRostie 2013 Pinot Noir, Goldrock Ridge, Sonoma Coast ($56) — MacRostie's Goldrock Ridge pinot is one of the most suave and polished in the MacRostie portfolio, exhibiting exceptional fruit purity with notes of raspberry and strawberry and smooth, polished tannins. With a gentle note of wood spice, this is a top-notch effort from a very good vintage. Rating: 93.
MacRostie 2013 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($42) — The MacRostie RRV pinot had me at the first whiff of violets and spice. It's quite seductive and elegant. On the palate the wine delivers ripe aromas of blueberry, raspberry and plum with a generous bit of heft. The finish is long and satisfying. Rating: 92.
Piccini 2014 Poggio Alto 2014, Toscana IGT ($21) — Here's a delicious Super Tuscan that won't bust your wine budget. It's a common-enough Tuscan red blend of sangiovese, colorino, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, but made using a technique called "governo all'uso Toscano," which is similar to a ripasso from the Veneto region in that dried grapes are added back to the wine to create a second fermentation. It's beautifully made and unusually smooth, a novelty most of your friends won't have in their cellar. Rating: 91.
Morgan 2014 Pinot Noir "Twelve Clones," Santa Lucia Highlands ($34) — This is a ripe pinot that exhibits layered richness. It shows earthy forest floor notes and has a touch of wood spice and nicely integrated tannins, though it finishes on a slightly stemmy note that could take a bit of additional aging to resolve. Rating: 90.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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