If you could design the perfect ski resort, wouldn't you imagine it to be a stunning interconnection of several ski destinations on hundreds of miles of groomed slopes? How about 6,250 acres of groomed runs spanning three tremendous valleys?
And of course, there would be vast ungroomed areas with amazing powder shimmering under the sun. Also throw in 200 chairlifts that would allow guests to travel from one ski resort to another while they breathe in the spectacular views. Now add to this lovely picture a choice of outstanding hotels and wonderful French gourmet meals at ski-in ski-out restaurants with a cosmopolitan atmosphere.
Les Trois Vallees in the Savoie region of France is that dream come true. The place is beyond fantasy, mainly due to the fact that the French Alps have higher and grander peaks than American ski areas. The ski terrain offers virtually endless possibilities and inexhaustible variety for beginners through experts.
Eight ski resorts — known as stations in France — cover the Three Valleys slopes. They are Courchevel, Meribel, Les Menuires, La Tania, Val Thorens, Saint Martin de Belleville, Brides-les-Bains and Orelle. Together they form the most extensive ski terrain in the world.
Each of the three main resorts has its own architectural style and unique character. Courchevel lies in Courchevel Valley and consists of villages named for the altitude at which they are located. The highest village is the most elegant, but others offer accommodations for budget-conscious skiers and vacationers. Roads and ski lifts connect them all.
Meribel lies in the Meribel (Allues) Valley, a central location that gives skiers the option to ski both Courchevel and Les Menuires within the same day. The fact that Meribel is the only resort in the world with more than a dozen cable cars is indicative of its extensive terrain. In addition, it has numerous restaurants. The village's Alpine chalet architecture with peaked roofs and carved balconies adds a cozy charm. Mottaret, with a cluster of modern hotels, condos and apartments, lies high above in the same valley.
Les Menuires in the Belleville Valley was built in the 1960s as part of the French government's "snow plan," a program designed to build huge futuristic ski complexes in order to compete with the best Swiss and Austrian resorts. The accommodations offer reasonably priced ski packages.
Val Thorens is also in Belleville Valley but higher (actually considered to be the highest ski resort in Europe), which provides the ultimate light- powder snow dream for powder-hounds.
Can't wait to get on those slopes but not sure if you can handle so many choices and such immensity? Don't fret. It's a good idea to join a ski class for the week. The instructors assess ability and then organize skiers into small groups of about six people, based on each skier's level of ability.
Classes are led onto terrain that's best for the group's overall ability. Advanced students go off piste on ungroomed slopes with expert instructors who know the mountains well so that they can enjoy the adventure of traversing places that are unimaginably exciting.
Following a ski instructor ensures that students won't take a wrong turn and wander into unsafe territory. Each valley has its own top-notch ski school, and altogether they're the largest in Europe with more than 1,500 instructors.
My instructor, Philippe, seemed to have eyes in the back of his head since even as he skied in front, he was able to watch our turns. At times he would pause to exclaim, "You blew it on your third turn. You sat back," or some other critique that was right on the mark.
Our routes ranged from schussing through Meribel's open glades to taking cliffhanger runs in all three valleys. One fine morning, we made off-piste tracks on 6 inches of new powder. Our movements caused the quivering sunlit flakes to shimmer in silver all around us.
Another advantage of ski school was meeting a variety of people because the Three Valleys attracts an international crowd. In Philippe's class I enjoyed the friendship of Lawrence and John from England, Henri and Bernadette from France, Sigrid from Germany and Johanna from Holland.
We lunched on patios overlooking the slopes and tried different restaurants and even ancient huts now operating as cafes that offered delicious food. These huts were originally built to shelter animal herders. In the villages, many hotels serve lunch, and with nine Michelin-star restaurants in the area, the best is always nearby. We ended our meals with scrumptious desserts, among them selections of fruit tarts and an upside-down apple tart smothered in freshly whipped Chantilly cream.
The food was great, but skiing the French Alps was euphoric. All around us views of magnificent bowls showed impressive peaks rising above a realm that seemed halfway between heaven and earth.
The upper Courchevel village boasts seven five-star hotels, with several situated among the pine forests along the slopes and located so conveniently that one can ski out the door.
Meribel has 19 four-star hotels and is known for the charm of its traditional Alpine architecture with peaked chalet roofs and carved wooden balconies. The central location, of course, is the main attraction.
In 1992, when the Winter Olympic Games were held all over Les Trois Vallees, upgrades and additions included an entertainment complex, an ice-skating rink and a ski-jump stadium in Courchevel, while an ice hockey rink was built in Meribel.
WHEN YOU GO
For more information about Les Trois Vallees, visit www.les3vallees.com/ski.
For general information about traveling in France: www.us.rendezvousenfrance.com
For air travel information: www.airfrance.com
Patricia Woeber is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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