By Robert Selwitz

Bavaria overflows with fascinating cities, and Bamberg is one of the best.

Blessed with stunning architecture and meandering medieval streets and byways, this city can fill several days with appealing discoveries virtually every step of the way.

One of the most striking Bamberg scenes — and a particular favorite of photographers — is the 14th-century town hall that sits in the middle of the Regnitz River. It was erected between 1386 and 1456, with the decision to site it in the middle of the Regnitz being made by Bamberg's merchants. Since these tanners, weavers, fishermen and other tradesmen wanted neither to buy land from the church nor to pay taxes to build on church property, the burghers arranged for pilings to be erected in the middle of the river, and upon these the town hall was constructed. It has frequently been renovated, and today you'll see a baroque and rococo structure festooned with murals that is at the heart of Bamberg's old town.

Bamberg is also home to the tomb of Pope Clement II, who ruled for less than 10 months during 1046 and 1047. The only pope buried north of the Alps, his tomb is in the St. Peter and St. George Cathedral. This massive church, which dominates Bamberg's skyline, exists in part because 10th-century King Heinrich II (973-1024) and his wife Cunigunde couldn't have children to pray for their souls after they died. Needing to ensure a source of postmortem prayer that children would otherwise have guaranteed, the king founded the bishopric of Bamberg in 1007. Five years later the church where resident bishops prayed for him arose.

Today it's possible to visit Heinrich's and Cunigunde's tombs, that of Pope Clement II, and the intriguing Bamberg Horseman. This stunning statue of a royal rider has spurred centuries of speculation about who he actually was.

Nearby is the Diocesan Museum, where prized possessions include capes and boots uncovered when the pope's tomb was moved, other well-preserved vestments, and the imperial cloak that belonged to Heinrich II and Cunigunde. The pope's tomb was moved to protect it from anticipated World War II bombings that never came. Indeed, Bamberg's preservation was due to its lack of industrial or military facilities the Allies might have felt necessary to eliminate.

Descending from Bamberg's ecclesiastical high point (the city boasts seven distinct hills), one soon arrives in its oldest section. Bisected by the River Regnitz, the compact quarter features half-timbered houses, twisty lanes, numerous sites to sample local brews and — most importantly — Bamberg's extraordinary, mid-river town hall.

During the 17th and 18th centuries there was a serious push to transform Bamberg's appearance from medieval (typified by half-timbered structures) to a more modern look. In 1693, Prince Bishop Lothan Franz von Schoenberg offered a unique incentive: Those who built two-story stone homes paid no taxes for 20 years, and those who covered their timbered homes with plaster were tax-exempt for seven years.

Fortunately, not everyone took his offer. Today Bamberg boasts a fascinating group of buildings that include some 2,000 single dwellings under special UNESCO protection. While baroque structures outnumber all other styles, there is still a healthy representation of buildings that reflect their medieval heritage.

While walking Bamberg's streets, don't miss the fishermen's "Little Venice" quarter with many half-timbered homes, the baroque Bottinger Palace or renaissance buildings around the Old Court.

Also not to be missed are the Gothic church of St. Michael's monastery, particularly its vaulted ceiling adorned with replications of hundreds of flowers and medicinal plants. And for a nearby change of pace, drop into the Franconian Brewery Museum. In a city proud of its brews (including Rauchbier, a smoked beer that's definitely an acquired taste) and brewing heritage, this museum features 1,300 exhibits on beer and beer history.

Other Bamberg appeals include the rose garden in back of the New Residence and the early home of poet E.T.A. Hoffmann, who lived here from 1808-1813.

The very fine Bamberg Symphony is vigorously supported by nearly 10 percent of the city's 78,000 residents and very much worth the price of a ticket. Concerts are performed in an extraordinarily user-friendly hall. Director Jonathan Nott is a Gustav Mahler specialist, and those concerts are particularly special. Currently Nott is recording all of them for Tudor Records.

For a change of pace, take a 20-minute train ride to Bad Staffelstein, the town nearest to one of Germany's most acclaimed buildings, the Basilica of the Vierzehnheiligen ("Fourteen Holy Helpers"). Featuring an ornate 18th-century rococo interior, the basilica is a successor to much smaller shrines, and believers have long flocked here to worship where a 15th-century shepherd encountered one crying child, then 14 others. Before vanishing, all pleaded that a church be built there.

Now most visitors come to view the statue-laden, stunningly bright white and gold interior and to hear fabulous organ music. They also pause at a plot of grass, now inside the church, that is said to be exactly where the shepherd had his celestial encounter.

Nearby is Coburg and its formidable and extremely well preserved 13th-century hilltop castle. Among those said to have visited here was Martin Luther, who sought refuge here while avoiding arrest during tumultuous post-Reformation days and worked on translating the Bible into German during his stay

Also here are ancient carriages; paintings by Cranach, Durer and Grunewald; and collections of Venetian glass, historic hunting weapons and copper engravings.

Another worthwhile day trip out of Bamberg is to Bayreuth, most famous for being the home of Richard Wagner's Festspeilhaus. The demanding composer originally built this clutter-free opera house — remarkable for its acoustics — to be the sole home for his four-opera "Ring" cycle. Bayreuth's annual summer festival performs this and other works, as well. Though tickets are extremely difficult to procure (this year's festival runs from July 25 through Aug. 28), there are daily tours of the theater. Visitors see the seating area, enter the orchestra pit and go behind the scenes.

When it's open, the Margravinal Opera House — considered to be one of Europe's most magnificent — is a definite must-see. Renovations are currently in full swing, but it's possible the theater may be at least partially open his summer for limited touring. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this facility was what originally drew Wagner's attention to Bayreuth,

Outside the town center is the 18th-century Old and New Hermitage Palace. The buildings are notable for their grand architecture and particularly for the site's sweeping gardens and parkland. Exterior draws include fountains, a sun temple, a mock ruined theater and faux grottoes.

The New Palace, built between 1749 and 1753, is a festival of rococo design. The Old Palace dating to 1715, boasts a music room with Japanese design and a Chinese room with multiple mirrors.

The surrounding gardens were created by Margravine Frederike Sophia, Wilhelmine (1709-1758). Once a potential candidate to become England's queen, she ultimately dominated Bayreuth's artistic life during the mid 1700s.

WHEN YOU GO

For general information about Germany: German National Tourism, www.germany.travel

Bamberg Tourism: www.bamberg.info/en

Bamberg Symphony: www.bambergsymphony.com

Barockhotel am Dom, a comfortable property just steps from the cathedral and Bamberg's old town: www.barockhotel.de/en

The City Hall in Bamburg, Germany, sits in the middle of the Regnitz River. Photo courtesy of Barbara Selwitz.

Passengers wait for a very short ferry ride across the Regnitz River in Bamburg, Germany. Photo courtesy of Barbara Selwitz.

The mysterious Bamberg Rider has long intrigued visitors to St. George Cathedral in Bamburg, Germany. Photo courtesy of Barbara Selwitz.

Robert Selwitz is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.