By Robert Selwitz
Portland, Ore., is a city for people who like cities. What make it special are great restaurants, a low-cost surface transportation system that extends throughout the metropolitan area, a pro-bike and walking atmosphere, and a strong cultural base.
The first non-Native Americans to explore Portland's present-day site may have been part of the 1804-06 Lewis and Clark expedition. The city's location — now on both sides of the Willamette River and 85.5 miles from the Pacific Ocean — was originally called "The Clearing," appropriate since it first had to be cleared of Douglas fir trees that otherwise covered the area. Loggers and trappers occupied part of the Willamette's western shore that today is downtown Portland. Traders also took notice since river water depths were found to accommodate oceangoing ships.
During the 1830s and '40s the population grew even though the new town lacked a permanent name. That was resolved in 1845, when major landholders, each of whom wanted to name the new city after their hometowns, agreed to resolve the question via a coin toss. Francis W. Pettygrove from Portland, Maine, prevailed over Asa Lovejoy from Boston, and that's how Portland got its name.
Today visitors can see the actual name-deciding penny in the Oregon Historical Society Museum, which is packed with intriguing exhibits. These include" Windows on America" — a fascinating collection of presidential documents — and a re-creation of the 150-year-old Pendleton Woolen Mills with tales of its relationships with American Indian communities.
Also here is a detailed exposition about early interactions between Oregon settlers and Native Americans - the half-century of warfare between them and the diseases Native Americans had not previously encountered that virtually wiped out many Indian tribes. Another nearby stop should be the Portland Art Museum, which houses fine representative collections of American, Native American, Northwestern and European art.
The best way to appreciate Portland and its wildly diverse neighborhoods, however, is on foot. Start at Pioneer Square, a major transit hub in the heart of downtown. Across the street from the 1875 Pioneer Courthouse, the popular square also boasts an amphitheater with classical columns and a statue named "Allow Me," which most Portlanders call "Umbrella Man." According to a guide, the statue, which depicts a formally dressed, umbrella-carrying businessman hailing a taxi, gets three things wrong.
"Portlanders rarely dress formally, no one carriers an umbrella since Portland's considerable rains tend to be misty and not pounding, and hailing a cab is not allowed," he told us. "Taxis can only be accessed at designated stopping points."
Several blocks east lies Gov. Tom McCall Waterfront Park, named for the progressive Oregon leader who served from1967 to 1975. He spurred the removal of a freeway that previously blocked Portlanders from the Willamette and moved it to the opposite side of the river.
Today this lovely park, a favorite piece of city greenery, is also the site of a weekend flea market that draws thousands of locals and visitors. Not far from the market site is a Portland institution, Voodoo Donuts. They produce tasty variations on traditional donuts that make it worth the often half-hour wait to reach the counter.
You'll also want to see the walled Lan Su Chinese Garden that encompasses a city block and was constructed by artisans from Suzhou China. It includes a teahouse, serpentine walking paths, arching bridges and lovely ponds.
An even more impressive swath of greenery, water and pathways is Portland's Japanese Garden. Covering 5.5 acres of Washington Park, this is a serene blend of pagodas, waterfalls, a teahouse, stone lanterns, bridges and winding pathways. While you can cover this well-marked route in an hour, you could easily spend much more time within this authentic replication of what one encounters in Japan itself.
One more interesting greenery-surrounding stop is the Pittock Mansion built in 1914 by the then-editor of the Oregonian newspaper. An interesting example of upper-crust living, its West Hills location is reachable only by taxi.
Portland's massive park system is one of the nation's largest. And its proximity to a major urban setting is a real asset. However, it's the city itself that draws droves of visitors. And one of the trendiest areas is the Pearl District. Long a factory, warehousing and industrial area, the origins of its name is cloaked in mystery. Since the 1980s, the district has undergone a radical shift. Increasingly it has become home to crafts shops, boutiques, restaurants, nightlife and art galleries, many of which feature early evening open houses for the public the first Thursday of every month.
At the edge of the Pearl District, and claiming to be the world's biggest independent bookstore is Powell's City of Books. It features new and used volumes, plus rare and out-of-print editions. While there are several Portland Powell's bookstores, the king of the trove is on a square block located between N.W. 10th and 11th streets and West Burnside and N.W. Couch Street.
Another main reason to visit Portland is the consistent high quality of food. Extending far beyond "foodie" or trendy fare, you'll find pungent guacamole, soul-satisfying brew-pub hamburgers, tangy sausages and or authentic Asian dishes all over town. And there are dozens of fine local beers to wash it all down.
"People in Portland demand the best," our guide told us. "Places serving mundane food just don't survive."
Also, in downtown Portland, don't miss taking a sip from the unusual bronze "Benson Bubblers." The original four-outlet water fountains were the creation of — and donated by — hotelier Simon Benson.
Quality theater, fine music and sports are also part of the Portland scene. Portland Center Stage is a highly regarded repertory company, and the Oregon Symphony plays in the magnificently restored Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall that was once a grand movie palace. Spectator sports that range from the powerful NBA Portland Trail Blazers to the wildly successful Portland Timbers Major League Soccer team are also key reasons for Portland's appeal.
Indeed the Timbers may be the MLS team that's closest to the hearts of their supporters. They play in perpetually jam-packed Jeld-Wen Field — a conversion of a Pacific Coast League baseball stadium — before fans whose intensity often rivals that more commonly found in Europe or South America. No wonder Portland now calls itself "Soccer City." Getting to games via surface rail takes less than 10 minutes and $2.50 from Pioneer Square. For the same amount, you can take the 45-minute ride to Portland's airport.
Beyond Portland are many other fascinating choices accessible by car. These include Mount Hood, whose fine lodge and skiing or trekking trails (depending on the season) are just 50 miles from the city, and Multnomah Falls (30 miles away), featuring a stunning waterfall and plenty of hiking choices for an invigorating natural getaway.
WHEN YOU GO
For general information: www.travelportland.com
The Benson Hotel is an elegant, 101-year old hotel that features excellent location and service: www.bensonhotel.com.
Heathman Hotel is one of Portland's best with a great location and extremely helpful concierge services: www.portland.heathmanhotel.com.
Portland Walking Tours offers a broad mix of general and specialized tours, cheerfully and intelligently guided: www.portlandwalkingtours.com.
Robert Selwitz is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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