By Patricia Woeber

For centuries beloved by kings, queens and nobles, the Loire Valley, which stretches along the Loire River for some 200 miles, has a rich history of passion and intrigue. Its magnificent private chateaux are dotted amid the forests of one of France's loveliest areas, just a couple of hours southwest of Paris.

Here you can see how the creme-de-la-creme of France once lived, schemed and loved. Today some private chateaux are open for tours and others welcome overnight guests.

The Chateau de Cheverny is one of just a few of these great palaces still owned and inhabited by the same family — descendants of Count Hurault de Vibraye — who have lived here since the 16th century. This opulent home is filled with their centuries-old furniture and collections, including 2,000 deer antlers in the trophy room.

In the grand salon there are historic portraits and exquisite antiques. Here and in other salons and rooms 17th-century Gobelin tapestries adorn the walls and Aubusson tapestries with floral designs cover the sofas and chairs.

Artist Jean Mosnier spent 18 years painting scenes on the ceilings, walls and window panels throughout the chateau. The series of painted panels in the dining room shows amusing episodes from the story of Don Quixote.

The most opulent bedroom's ceiling illustrates the story of Perseus saving Andromeda from a monster. In another room, magnificent tapestries display the voyages of Ulysses and the abduction of Helen of Troy.

Not surprising, however, in Cheverny there are no illustrations of the family's real-life tragedy — a crime of passion that took place here in the 16th century. When Count Henri Hurault found his young bride with a lover he gave her the choice to die by dagger or poison. She chose poison. Count Henri was then banished to Cheverny from the royal court by King Henri IV.

Eventually the count remarried and his new wife rebuilt the chateau to erase the unhappy memories. For the symmetrical exterior with its elegant architectural details, she selected dazzling Bourre stone the color of which was a symbol of pure love because it grows whiter with age.

In the 18th century the Marquis de Vibraye joined the Marquis de Lafayette in the American War of Independence. Afterwards de Vibraye was invited to become a member the Society of the Cincinnati, a group formed by military officers.

But Cheverny is just one of many significant historic properties with glorious gardens and lovely parks in the Loire. The gardens of the privately owned Chateau de Villandry have been called the most romantic in France. The Renaissance-era chateau (open for visits) overlooks six distinct garden areas spread over four terraces. Each garden is immaculately designed in a formal pattern with a stunning degree of symmetry.

Highlights are the ornamental flower gardens within parterres (boxwood hedges) that are designed in the shapes of hearts and other symbols of love. Even the colors of the flowers are chosen to embody various feelings of passion and even envy. The decorative kitchen garden features more than 40 different kinds of vegetables, and the fountains in the vast water garden create a tranquil environment.

Several privately owned chateaux have opened for overnight guests because this area contains many attractions for tourists. In all of them rooms are furnished with antiques — each a museum piece in its own right with the fine hand-made craftsmanship of a bygone age. To stay among a rich array of paintings and other beautiful objects is thrilling.

Movie fans won't want to miss the elegant privately owned Chateau des Briottieres near Angers on the western end of the Loire. The owner, Francois de Valbray, welcomes guests for overnight stays. The movie "Impromptu" was filmed here in 1991. It tells the romantic story of female novelist George Sand (played by Judy Davis) and the composer Frederic Chopin (Hugh Grant), the love of her life.

Another gorgeous castle in which to stay is Chateau de la Bourdaisiere, where the owner, the charming Prince Louis-Albert de Broglie welcomes guests. The prince's pet project is his 2.5-acre vegetable garden. Francois I built the palace for his mistress, and Gabrielle d'Estrees may have been born here. She lived here and later became the beloved mistress of Henri IV. Even when she was pregnant she accompanied Henri on his military campaigns against the Catholic League. She wisely advised him to conclude the religious wars by becoming Catholic himself, which led to his being crowned king. She bore three of his children, whom the king legally recognized.

Last but far from least is the real "Sleeping Beauty" castle. It's the breathtaking Chateau d'Usse, now owned by the Duke de Blacas, although its fabulous royal history began way back in the 11th century when the castle was first fortified. With its abundant towers and spires, the Chateau d'Usse inspired Walt Disney and continues to inspire today's overnight guests — a fascinating place for a family to stay.

WHEN YOU GO

Air France offers flights from several U.S. : www.airfrance.com.

In the Loire Valley, Orleans lies on the east, Tours is in the center and Angers marks the western border.

Visitors who arrive at Chateau de Cheverny's kennels early may watch the feeding of the poitevin hunting dogs, and the property has a delightful botanical garden: www.chateau-cheverny.fr/en.

Villandry chateau and garden near Tours: www.chateauvillandry.fr/en

Chateau des Briottieres near Angers has a pool and tennis courts: www.briottieres.com

Chateau de la Bourdaisiere in Montlouis-sur-Loire near Tours has a pool: www.bourdaisiere.com.

Chateau d'Usses situated west of Azay-le-Rideau has an exhibition of period costumes: www.chateaudusse.fr.

Great royal chateaux open for tours are Chambord, Blois, Amboise, Chenonceau and many more.

Renault USA Inc. offers an economical tax-free auto lease (rental) plan that includes unlimited mileage, all taxes and insurance, and the use of a brand-new auto: www.renaultusa.com.

For general information about visiting France: www.us.rendezvousenfrance.com

Aubusson tapestries cover the chairs at Chateau de Cheverny in France's Loire Valley. Photo courtesy of Patricia Woeber.

The facade of Chateau de Cheverny in France's Loire Valley is decorated with busts and shells that line the middle floor on the exterior. Photo courtesy of Patricia Woeber.

Patricia Woeber is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.