It's one of the world's great wine paradoxes: a delicate, subtle, food-oriented wine calling for introspection most often is used to toast horse and auto race victories, weddings, New Year's Eve and World Series.

It's Champagne, the wine of fireworks and celebration. But really, there's little excitement in the best Champagnes, which come from that French district.

Unlike famed red wines, there's little alcohol in bubbly, rarely any oak and no concentration. Most are made with underripe grapes and the wines they make aren't ostentatious. They're sublime and crisp.

Most real French Champagnes aren't action movies; they're drawing-room dramas — quiet, reserved. And for various reasons, Champagne is expensive, partly due to expensive grapes from low-yielding vines and arduous, time-consuming production methods.

The greatest Champagnes I've tasted all were with solemn wine lovers who chatted quietly. Because Champagne is expensive, many wine lovers pour it only when its subtleties will be appreciated: at quiet times.

Only the image-conscious spray it around locker rooms amid people cheering. Better choices are alternatives that are cheaper and less sublime.

All great Champagne houses (including Moet, Salon, Bollinger, Ayala, Krug, Taittinger, Perrier-Jouet, Henriot and Roederer) have styles that define them. Champagne is unique.

But many cheaper alternatives, like California sparkling wines, can be also, like Italian prosecco, Spanish cava and German sekt. Alternatives can be good values, but few ever make it to even modest Champagne-style quality.

However, without fanfare, California bubbly houses (some French-owned) now make great strides toward the style of Champagne, albeit without some of Champagne's complexity. A dozen California sparkling houses now make such stellar bubblies that I'm amazed.

It began 58 years ago when Jack and Jamie Davies released their 1965 sparkling wine at then-nascent Schramsberg in Napa. Until the Davies's efforts, nothing domestic ever came close to Champagne.

Lately we've seen amazing sparkling wines from California priced about $40. Quality French Champagnes start about $50 and go up to a C-note or more for the best.

If you care about quality at a fair price, try a domestic sparkling. Good ones will be about $25; a few at $15-$20 can be found at discount stores.

In the last three years, a successful company based in Healdsburg, California, offers to the wine industry the ability to make quality bubblies that can be sold for $10.

The contract bubbly maker produces some spectacular bubblies for clients like wineries, retailers and restaurants. Rack and Riddle in Healdsburg now makes top-rate French-method sparklings for those without the equipment or expertise.

Some of the products actually say "Rack and Riddle" on their back label; others just use the bottling location, Healdsburg. Either way, the wines are excellent. Many are fairly priced.

As we enter the holiday season, sparkling wine sales are increasing. And if prices for Champagne seem daunting, try California bubblies. You'll be surprised how good they are.

Wine of the Week: Non-vintage Roederer Estate Brut, Anderson Valley ($30) — This Mendocino property is owned by Louis Roederer of Champagne. It has long made sparklings with a classic French style. Louis Roederer French Brut Champagne is well over $60 a bottle. This reliable and striking domestic version has citrus and brioche notes, perfect balance to go with food, and a classic aftertaste. Nationally available, it's often seen at less than $25, a great value in an upscale bubbly.

Dan Berger lives in Sonoma County, California, where he publishes "Vintage Experiences," a weekly wine newsletter. Write to him at [email protected]. To find out more about Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate webpage at www.creators.com.

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