Bubbly Basics

By Robert Whitley

December 1, 2015 6 min read

As serious party animals come down the home stretch, driving for the holidays' finish line (New Year's Eve), one beverage clearly rises to the top of the shopping list: bubbly.

Many, if not most, would simply say Champagne, but there's the rub. Too many revelers either don't or are unable to make the distinction between Champagne and other wines that fizz. Yes, all Champagnes have fizz, but not all wines that fizz are Champagne, no matter how much we wish it were so.

The first thing a holiday wine shopper needs to know is that Champagne, the real deal, is more expensive. That's the first clue, but hardly the one that matters most.

Champagne is the king of sparkling wines because it is the best wine that can be made from grapes grown in its geographical region. The finest (and most expensive) Champagnes use a high percentage of grapes grown in grand cru vineyards, which is the top designation in the Champagne district.

By comparison, it would be a safe bet that no grand cru grapes in Burgundy find their way into Cremant de Bourgogne, the bubbly wine of France's Burgundy region. What's more, the chalky soils of the Champagne region produce sparkling wines with a stony minerality and steely structure that has not been replicated anywhere else in the world that produces sparkling wine.

All of that said, it isn't necessary to spend a fortune to drink good bubbly through the holidays. Champagne is wonderful if you can afford it; otherwise there are many excellent alternatives.

Here are but a few:

Prosecco, from northern Italy's Veneto region, is a pleasing alternative, although the vast majority of prosecco is fairly simple and fruity. The most interesting and complex Prosecco comes from the Valdobbiadene district and one of the best of those is Bisol. As a good standard prosecco La Marca works for me.

Cava is the sparkling wine of Spain, produced primarily in the northeast corner near Barcelona. Most of the top cava that could compete with Champagne's complexity and structure never makes it to these shores. One of the finest cavas that is commercially available and well-priced at about $20 is Segura Viudas Reserva.

California sparkling wines come close to Champagne's complexity but generally lack the structure to age for decades as good Champagne will. There are exceptions, such as the Gloria Ferrer Royal Cuvee, and many of the top cuvees from Schramsberg.

The bottom line: No matter your budget, there are tasty bubblies in your price range. Just know that a $14 bottle of "Champagne" might taste very good, but it's not likely the real thing.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs, Carneros ($22) — With steely acidity and at the same time mouth-filling richness, the Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs is an inviting bubbly that has that rarest of qualities. It is easy to drink as an aperitif, but has the body and weight to take on complex cuisine. On the palate the blanc de blancs shows hints of lemon creme and pear and a hint of pie spice. Delicious with food or without. Rating: 90.

Tasting Notes

Black Kite Pinot Noir, Stony Terrace, Anderson Valley ($60) — Winemaker Jeff Gaffner's hot streak with pinot from the 2013 vintage continues with this blockbuster from Black Kite. Stony Terrace exhibits that rare tension between fruit, tannin and acid that delivers exquisite balance. The palate is layered with aromas of black raspberry and fragrant strawberry, notes of spice, cola and earth, with firm grip that indicates the potential for long life. Rating: 96.

Gloria Ferrer 2007 Royal Cuvee Brut, Carneros ($37) — Royal Cuvee is one of Gloria Ferrer's prestige bottlings, meaning it is given extra attention in the cellar and extended aging to add complexity prior to disgorgement. The 2007 is beginning to show some of those mature fruit aromas that come with age, yet it maintains its youthful edge, with fresh acidity and bright fruit aromas. Secondary aromas of butterscotch and honey are beginning to emerge to compete with the note of fresh apple and pear of the wine's youth, but the result is a complexity that is as noteworthy as it is unusual in a New World sparkling wine. Rating: 93.

Keenan 2012 Merlot, Napa Valley ($39) — Keenan's 2012 merlot is an outstanding example of the value that exists in high-quality Napa Valley merlot. It retails well below the price of comparable cabernet sauvignon from Napa, but packs the same punch. This vintage is rich and layered, showing dark fruits and plum, exceptional extraction that contributes to its weight and muscle, and firm tannins. Lay it down for a couple of years or drink up now. Either way, you will likely enjoy the experience. Rating: 92.

Shafer 2013 Merlot, Napa Valley ($55) — Although best known for its superb cabernet and chardonnay, Shafer also has a long and distinguished track record with merlot. The 2013 shows impressive weight, layered plum and dark berry fruit, and a firm grip on the finish. Very good now but even better with another couple of years in the bottle. Rating: 91.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

Photo credit: Sarah Stierch

Like it? Share it!

  • 0

Wine Talk
About Robert Whitley
Read More | RSS | Subscribe

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE...