The 2013 vintage of Wine Talk ends this week with a bevy of recommendations, including a couple of the finest wines I've tasted all year — a pinot noir from Merry Edwards and a cabernet sauvignon from Nickel & Nickel. With vintage 2013 now squarely in the rear-view mirror, I offer a few thoughts to take into the New Year.
Wines from all over the globe are better than ever, and that includes all classes of wine, especially at the lower end of the price scale. If you're looking for good red wines on the cheap, check your favorite wine shop for labels from the south of France, particularly the Languedoc and the Rhone Valley, and crianzas (one level down from reserva and two down from gran reserva) from Rioja or other top-notch Spanish wine regions.
Prosecco from Northern Italy is soaring in popularity, and there's a very good reason for that. The wines are tasty and not very expensive compared to bubbly from other parts of the world. One tip, however, is to look for DOC-level prosecco as opposed to generic prosecco. It will cost a little more, but it's worth it.
California remains the boss of the U.S. wine market, but Washington, New York and Virginia are seeing their influence spread. Virginia may surprise some, but I've been enjoying cabernet franc and viognier from Virginia for many years now and they're only getting better, with new wineries springing up all the time. New York's Finger Lakes region is doing wonders with aromatic white wines such as Riesling and Gewurztraminer, and the Long Island area is making its mark with sparkling wine, merlot and cabernet franc. Washington has made spectacular strides with cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah.
And last, but not least, I notice a moderating trend in the levels of oak and alcohol on some California wines. That's not to say you can't enjoy bigger and richer, but having options is a beautiful thing. More and more California producers are starting to see the wisdom of choice.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Calera 2012 Chardonnay, Central Coast ($18) — Calera chardonnays over the years have been somewhat overshadowed by the estate's pinot noirs, a fact that has likely kept prices in check. Of those, the Central Coast chardonnay consistently ranks as a "best buy." This vintage is beautifully balanced, with aromas of crisp green apple and toasty oak. It's a steal at less than $20 a bottle. Rating: 88.
Tasting Notes
Nickel & Nickel 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, John C. Sullenger Vineyard, Oakville ($100) — This beautiful wine is the classic Oakville cabernet sauvignon of the sort that made the Napa Valley the monument to American wine that it remains to this day. On the nose, the aromas of rich cassis, cedar and earthy tobacco leaf dominate. The flavors are mirrored on the palate. The wine is exceptionally well-balanced, firmly structured, but with seamless tannins and a long, hedonistic finish. At $100 a bottle, I would call it a bargain. Rating: 98.
Merry Edwards 2011 Pinot Noir, Olivet Lane Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($62) — Historically, the Olivet Lane Vineyard pinot has been Merry's signature achievement in the world of fine wine, a triumph in virtually every vintage. It remains so even in the challenging year of 2011, when foul weather was the main story line. This vintage of Olivet Lane is sensational, showing an earthy character on the nose that the French like to call "garrigue." This wine is all about dark fruits and spice, with a hint of anise and tremendous depth without losing its elegant persona. One of the finest California pinots I've tasted this year. Rating: 97.
Dolce 2007, Napa Valley ($85) — Dolce is an ambitious attempt to demonstrate the ability to produce a worthy rival to Sauternes in the Napa Valley. It has largely succeeded, although the market for premium domestic dessert wines is miniscule in the U.S. Dolce 2007, a blend of 82 percent semillon and 18 percent sauvignon blanc, has the structure and palate weight of a first-class Sauternes as well as the potential to improve with additional age. This Dolce exhibits bright tropical and citrus fruits, a subtle beeswax, honeycomb nuance and exceptional balance. The listed price is for a 375ml bottle. Rating: 95.
Duckhorn Vineyards 2009 Merlot, Stout Vineyard, Napa Valley ($85) — It would be safe to say Duckhorn is the master of merlot, at least in California. From its inception, Duckhorn has advanced the cause of merlot, firmly believing the most noble red grape of the Right Bank of Bordeaux deserves every bit as much respect, even awe, as the revered cabernet sauvignon of the Left Bank. The proof, as always, is in the bottle, and the Stout Vineyard merlot from Duckhorn is indeed awe-inspiring. Powerful and dense, this vintage is built to last, rich and firmly structured, showing dark fruit aromas with a savory note and plenty of spicy new-oak influence. This is a wine to wait on for at least another five to seven years. This is one California merlot that would make the vignerons of Saint-Emilion extremely proud. Rating: 94.
William Hill 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($40) — William Hill has long been a winery of note in the Napa Valley, although in recent years the once-lively buzz about the winery's cabernets has faded from the discussion of Napa cab. But Napa cab is what William Hill is known for, and this is a good one at an attractive price, all things considered. It has good weight and density on the palate, with a pleasant touch of oak, rich flavors of black fruit and excellent structure and balance. You don't have to spend $75 for a very good Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon; you just have to know where you can find a bottle of William Hill. Rating: 91.
Arrowood 2011 Viognier, Saralee's Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($30) — Arrowood's 2011 from the exceptional Saralee's Vineyard exhibits delicate notes of honeysuckle and stone fruits, with exquisite balance between fruit and acidity. This suave Viognier is long and lively on the palate. If only more domestic Viognier were this clean, refreshing and satisfying. Rating: 91.
Torres 2010 "Celeste," Ribera del Duero, Spain ($28) — If you're seeking a bold red wine that's rich and layered and ready to drink now, and you don't have the inclination to pay more than $30 a bottle, this beauty from Spain might be just right for your wallet as well as your palate. Ripe red-fruit aromas are wrapped in supple tannins, giving this vintage of Celeste a soft palate that many will find appealing in such a young red wine. The flavors show intensity and persistence. For the price one of the most charming red wines you are likely to find. This wine is 100 percent Tempranillo. Rating: 90.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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