Despite the fact that all wines are tasted blind and judges are shielded as much as possible from any form of bias (other than their own stylistic preferences), the cream nearly always rises to the top at a major international wine competition.
Such was the case at the 10th annual Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition on Sept. 22-23 in San Diego, California. After more than 1,100 wines had been evaluated and the results made official, Napa Valley sparkling wine house Domaine Chandon was named domestic winery of the year and Italy's Castello Banfi was named imported winery of the year.
Chandon is owned by the French Champagne house Moet & Chandon and has long been Moet's flagship property outside of France. Situated in the small village of Yountville at the southern end of the Napa Valley, Chandon has access to some of the finest chardonnay and pinot noir grapes in California for sparkling wine production.
Its multi-vintage prestige cuvee Etoile Brut Rose ($55) took best of show for sparkling wine while its non-vintage brut ($24) claimed a platinum award. Chandon also collected four gold awards and a silver award. Every wine it entered earned a medal.
Castello Banfi, the powerhouse winery from Montalcino, Italy, rode the coattails of its 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Alle Mura ($100), which was the highest-scoring wine of the competition (98 points) and imported wine of the year. The margin of victory for Poggio Alle Mura was narrow. Only one point separated it from its stablemate, the 2013 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino ($90) at 97 points. The Banfi "normale" Brunello had taken wine of the year honors at the Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition in San Diego in May. The Poggio Alle Mura was not entered in that competition. Banfi picked up two other platinum awards, four gold awards and eight silver awards at the Somm Challenge.
Domestic wine of the year was a tie between the Goldschmidt Vineyard 2014 cabernet sauvignon, Yoeman Vineyard, Alexander Valley ($75, 96 points) and the Cakebread Cellars 2015 syrah, Suscol Springs Vineyard ($57, 96 points). Goldschmidt wines are made by globetrotting winemaker Nick Goldschmidt (he's in high demand as a consultant the world over).
The Cakebread wines are a product of the iconic Cakebread family, which has been producing stunning cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc for four decades. It's no surprise they also have a deft hand with syrah.
After all, the cream always rises to the top.
Complete results of the 2018 Sommelier Challenge, including all of the best-of-class winners, can be found at SommelierChallenge.com.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Goose Watch 2017 Cabernet Franc Rose, Finger Lakes ($15) — This dry rose of cabernet franc from the Finger Lakes region in upstate New York shows a nose of red cherries and herbs, and is bone-dry and beautifully balanced. Rating: 94.
True Myth 2016 Chardonnay, Paragon Vineyard, Edna Valley ($18) — Edna Valley has long been a sweet spot for chardonnay along California's Central Coast, and the Niven family's Paragon Vineyard is one of the sweetest of the sweet. It shows in the richness, structure and length of this beautiful chard with a beautiful price. Notes of lemon oil, apple and baking spices dominate. The oak is obvious, but it fits with the wine. Rating: 94.
Raywood Vineyards 2017 Merlot, Central Coast ($8) — This second label of Paso Robles' Castoro Cellars represents excellent value, and the 2017 Raywood Vineyards merlot is a prime example. You won't find many wines this good priced below $10. The Raywood delivers lovely plum and blueberry fruit, soft tannins and immediate pleasure at a fantastic price. Rating: 92.
Tasting Notes
Eberle 2016 Zinfandel, Paso Robles ($30) — Eberle has a long, distinguished history with zinfandel. The 2016 is yet another in a string of successful vintages. Noteworthy about Eberle zins is that they conjure up all of the flavors and aromas (blackberry, blueberry, black pepper and spice) that zin fanatics love but without the overripe, jammy characteristics that are common in modern zins. The 2016 is well-balanced, shows excellent depth and richness, and finishes with great persistence of aftertaste. Rating: 95.
McEvoy Ranch 2014 Syrah 'Red Piano,' Marin County ($35) — Marin County in California has earned a reputation for fine pinot noir in recent years. Syrah may be coming on. This 2014 vintage from McEvoy Ranch exhibits the characteristics of a cool-climate syrah, delivering notes of white pepper and herbs, a coffee note and lifted blueberry fruit. Rating: 93.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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