If you have even a passing interest in wine, you've no doubt heard that wine enhances the dining experience. Entire books are dedicated to explaining which wines go best with what foods. For the most part, wine-pairing advice is well-thought out, and it will no doubt impress family and friends when you follow the suggestions.
But there is another part of the equation that isn't talked about often, and that is the sometimes-tremendous difference in your perception of a wine once you've enjoyed it with food.
Don't believe it? Take this simple test. Next time you visit your favorite wine shop, pick up a bottle of Chianti. Take it home, and pour a glass. If you don't wrinkle your nose at the first few sips, you are the exception.
Chianti is a red wine from Tuscany that is typically high in acidity. While the acidity may soften over time, most consumers don't lay down their Chianti to age until that perfect moment will arrive. Many red wines, particularly Old World reds, also seem imbalanced between fruit and acidity. They taste tart when young and generally aren't embraced as casual sipping wines.
Now, pour another glass of Chianti, and chomp on a few olives. Maybe throw a few bites of cheese into the mix, or a slice or two of prosciutto or salami. Something miraculous will happen: The tart, acidic characteristic that made you wrinkle your nose will disappear, and the purity of the black cherry and red-fruit flavors in the wine will blossom.
The wine that seemed awkward, disjointed and maybe even downright unpleasant will take on another personality — reflecting smoothness and roundness, and notes of flowers and spice that you hadn't even noticed the first time around. Try it with a roasted chicken or pizza, too.
Pairing food and wine isn't always about finding the right wine for a specific dish. Sometimes, it's about finding the right foods for the wines you want to drink.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Pieropan 2015 Soave Classico DOC, Italy ($20) — Perhaps no wine region in the world has benefited more from the marvels of modern viticulture than Italy's Veneto. This northerly climate was once known mostly for thin reds and watery whites. The indigenous grapes were wonderful, but overcropping and poor practices in the winery always held it back. This is nowhere more apparent than in the Soave district of Veneto, where the primary grape is garganega. When handled properly, you get what Pieropan (one of Veneto's top producers) has delivered from the 2014 vintage: floral notes, citrus, pear and a hint of honey. It's absolutely delicious. Rating: 93.
Wakefield 2014 Shiraz "Promised Land," South Australia ($13) — "Promised Land" is Wakefield's entry-level shiraz. It recalls those heady days when Aussie wine producers flooded the U.S. wine market with inexpensive reds that were both charming and delicious. This may not be the best shiraz you've ever tasted, but it's just what the doctor ordered for those weekend football tailgate parties or barbecues on the back patio. It shows a hint of minty eucalyptus and a core of blueberry and blackberry fruit, as well as modest tannins and excellent balance. Rating: 85.
Tasting Notes
Westwood 2014 "Elevation," Annadel Gap Vineyard, Sonoma Valley ($38) — Westwood's "Elevation" is a red Rhone-style blend that is dominated by grenache and mourvedre (more than 80 percent) and has the more international grape, syrah, taking a back seat. As a well-constructed wine, it shows off the bright-red fruits that grenache delivers and the darker aromas of mourvedre, creating a complex flavor profile that on its own is very intriguing. However, the balance and texture contribute immensely to the overall impressiveness of this blend. It drinks beautifully now, but it's got life for many years to come. Rating: 95.
Tongue Dancer 2014 Pinot Noir "Pinot de Ville," Putnam Vineyard, Sonoma County ($65) — Tongue Dancer is the new project by winemaker James MacPhail and his wife, Kerry MacPhail. They chose the name because they wanted to make wines "that dance across your tongue." This pinot from Sonoma's Putnam Vineyard fits the bill, showing lively red fruits, a pleasing floral note, bright acidity, flavor purity and excellent length on the palate. Beautifully balanced, it's delicious now but would benefit from another year or two in the cellar. Rating: 94.
MacPhail 2014 Pinot Noir, Wightman House Vineyard, Anderson Valley ($55) — The balance and elegance of this vintage shines in the Wightman House pinot. It offers notes of cherry and strawberry, and an earthy undertone of forest floor and wood spice. Showing bright acidity and firm tannins, this wine will likely be at its best after a few additional years in the cellar. Rating: 93.
Laurel Glen 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon "Counterpoint," Sonoma Mountain ($40) — Perhaps because of its size, Laurel Glen doesn't have the reputation for cabernet sauvignon that it has earned and that it deserves. The cabs are pure, focused and well-balanced, and it's been my experience that they improve with age. The 2014 Counterpoint is another in a long line of successes — showing layered black-fruit complexity, notes of graphite and cedar, and beautifully managed tannins. Drink it now or over the next 10 years. Rating: 92.
MacPhail 2014 Pinot Noir, Lakeview Vineyard, Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($49) — From one of the last batches of pinot made by founding winemaker James MacPhail, the 2014 Lakeview Vineyard exhibits a core of vivid red fruit and fall spices. It's beautifully balanced with integrated tannins, and it has a subtle bite on the finish that bodes well for future development. Rating: 92.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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