No doubt some would be surprised to learn the Duckhorn Three Palms Merlot retails for around $100 a bottle. They had it on good authority, having watched the hit movie "Sideways" a time or two, that merlot was swill and a waste of time.
For all the good that "Sideways" did for pinot noir sales, propelling the noble Burgundian grape to superstar status, the 2004 movie left a bitter taste for those who produced and sold merlot. Only in the past few years have merlot sales rebounded from their prolonged slump, with sales of premium merlot ($20 and up) increasing last year by 10 percent.
So when the sixth annual International Merlot Month (October) rolls around in a couple of weeks, merlot producers will in fact have something to celebrate. More than 100 of them have banded together to create the #MerlotMe movement. The even have a merlotme.com website.
If grizzled wine aficionados are puzzled by all this, there is good reason. Merlot grapes have been used to make some of the world's finest wines for at least a half-century. In the Saint-Emilion and Pomerol districts of the Bordeaux Right Bank in France, merlot is the dominant grape. The most famous estate in Pomerol, Chateau Petrus, retails for an average of $2,600 per bottle. It has been made exclusively from merlot grapes since 2010, and prior to that it was merlot-dominant.
Merlot also thrives in Italy's Tuscany region, where it is often used to flesh out the wines in vintages that haven't been kind to sangiovese, the predominant grape variety. Many of the finest so-called super Tuscan wines possess a large merlot component.
In the United States, merlot grapes produce exceptional wines in Washington and California. Duckhorn's Three Palms Vineyard is perhaps the most acclaimed merlot vineyard in America. It is our Chateau Petrus at a fraction of the price.
To any who might think the Duckhorn Three Palms a one-off, I would point them to other producers who've mastered merlot: Chateau St. Jean, Nickel & Nickel, Northstar, Pahlmeyer, St. Supery, Grgich Hills and Blackbird, just to name a few.
The rap on merlot in the movie became urban legend, but the evidence suggests it was never anything more than a Hollywood myth.
Tasting Notes
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Duckhorn 2015 Merlot, Three Palms Vineyard ($98) — Duckhorn's 2015 vintage from this iconic vineyard at the top of the Napa Valley is another in a string of stellar vintages. Darkly colored, the 2015 Three Palms exhibits impressive depth and richness while showing notes of plum, black cherry and spice. There is a fair amount of oak, but the Three Palms fruit handles it with ease. This wine is layered and rich on the palate with a long finish. Rating: 96.
Duckhorn 2015 Merlot, Napa Valley ($54) — Showing a subtle floral note and spice on the nose, the 2015 Napa Valley Merlot from Duckhorn, its most basic merlot, is inviting and delicious from start to finish. This vintage offers a complex palate of juicy red and black fruits, exceptional balance and a long finish. Rating: 94.
Duckhorn 2015 Merlot, Carneros ($75) — The 2015 Carneros merlot from Duckhorn is a savory beast that delivers a tarry note that beautifully complements its fruit profile of plums and blackberries. Well-balanced, this wine goes down easy now but has the structure to improve in the cellar over the next decade. The oak treatment is beautifully restrained, lending a touch of spice. Rating: 94.
Duckhorn 2015 Merlot, Atlas Peak ($75) — The most approachable of the 2015 merlot offerings from Duckhorn, the Atlas Peak, shows bright, juicy red-fruit characteristics, moderate tannins and an easy finish. Rating: 93.
Grgich Hills 2015 Merlot, Napa Valley ($43) — Napa Valley merlot typically takes a back seat to cabernet sauvignon, though in the right hands it represents tremendous value. Grgich, best known for its chardonnay and cabernet, also has a deft hand with merlot. The 2015 shows ripe cherry and plum aromas, notes of wood spice, and excellent richness and palate weight without being over-the-top. Beautifully structured and balanced, this is a merlot to enjoy now or lay down in the cellar for additional aging. Rating: 91.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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