Once upon a time, the wine glass was hardly an object of controversy. Some of a certain age no doubt remember when the delivery system for wine was the water glass. This was common in Italian-American households, where wine was considered food and served at the dinner hour every night. Fine crystal was not necessary.

The Austrian glassmaker Georg Riedel altered our perception of the wine glass beginning sometime in the 1980s by offering affordable stemware designed for specific kinds of wine. Other wineglass manufacturers followed suit and the wine enthusiast is now confronted with a mind-numbing array of sizes and shapes for all manner of wine.

There is one glass shape for Bordeaux, another for riesling, another for Burgundy, still another for chardonnay, and so on. This begs the question: Does it matter?

In the technical sense, yes. Tasting the same wine from multiple styles of stemware will illustrate the variability in taste sensation and aromatic impressions that are directly connected to the glass used.

But from a practical point of view, having a special glass for each type of wine you might serve seems a bit like overkill, for the differences are subtle and generally not obvious unless tasting the same wine side by side from different glasses. Besides, who has space for all of those different glasses?

I'm a longtime fan of Riedel stemware, and use it exclusively at the four wine competitions I operate, but I don't believe that Georg's vision of a different glass shape for every wine works for most people.

Here's what I look for in a wine glass: Clean lines, a flared mid-section to allow for swirling and a narrowing at the rim to trap and funnel the aromas. I use larger glasses for big, complex reds such as cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir and Syrah, and slightly smaller glasses for sauvignon blanc, riesling and crisp, aromatic whites.

My exception to that rule of thumb is that I generally use what I would consider a red-wine glass for chardonnay. For the better (i.e., more complex) Champagnes and sparkling wines, I use a white wine glass rather than a Champagne flute. This shows off the subtle aromas of the better sparkling wines because it allows for swirling, which aerates the wine and brings up aroma and flavor.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Bonny Doon 2014 Vin Gris de Cigare, Central Coast ($18) — Bonny Doon's 2014 Vin Gris de Cigare is the quintessential summer wine, light and crisp, with notes of stone fruits and red berries, and a chalky grip on the finish that makes it an excellent mate with savory snacks. What's more, it's a true vin gris, using red grapes (mostly) to make a white wine, though it does have a distinctive onion skin tinge that would lead some to classify it as a rose. Rating: 90.

Tasting Notes

Franciscan 2013 Chardonnay, Cuvee Sauvage, Carneros ($40) — Cuvee Sauvage has long been among the most complex and long-lived chardonnays produced in California and the 2013 vintage is yet another stunner in a long line of stunning vintages for this iconic wine. Winemaker Janet Myers inherited Cuvee Sauvage (fermented using wild native yeasts) when she took over the reins at Franciscan from Darice Spinelli, now at Nickel & Nickel, and she never missed a beat. This vintage exhibits classic structure that delivers that rare combination of acid spine with voluptuous fruit. The oak and fruit and alcohol are balanced harmoniously, resulting in a California chardonnay for the ages, or tonight if you prefer. Rating: 95.

Bonny Doon 2011 Le Cigare Volant, Central Coast ($45) — Bonny Doon's flagship wine is this iconic American Rhone-style blend, which put both Randall Grahm and Bonny Doon on the map. Still crazy good after all these years, the 2011 is a muscular wine that will benefit from additional time in the cellar, though I wouldn't hesitate to serve it up now alongside a savory roasted chicken. This vintage emphasizes dark fruits and spice, with good balance, serious dimension on the palate, and a fine, lingering finish. Rating: 94.

Astorre Noti 2010 Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy ($30) — The 2010 vintage was superb throughout Tuscany, especially in the Chianti Classico region. Astorre Noti has produced a beautifully structured Chianti that has the potential to improve over the next decade or so if cellared properly. With notes of black cherry and red berry on the nose, this Chianti carries that theme onto the palate, where bright acidity lifts the fruit. Firm, chalky tannins confirm the aging potential. Rating: 91.

Agit Optima 2012 Pinot Nero, Oltrepo Pavese DOC, Italy ($25) — Pinot nero, aka pinot noir, is hardly the first wine that comes to mind when contemplating outstanding Italian reds. Over the years there have been more misses than hits, yet there are those who continue to pursue their passion for pinot despite the disappointing results to date. Agit Optima is the particular passion of winemaker Jean-Francois Coquard, a transplanted Burgundian who's actually had success with pinot nero in Italy. The 2012 won't make anyone forget La Tache, but that's not the point. It's a meaty, ripe, well-rounded expression of pinot noir from the Lombardy region around Milan. Showing a strong savory note, a hint of cola and aromas of strawberry and black cherry, this is a pinot nero that commands respect at a downright modest price. Rating: 88.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.