One of the most enduring wine myths of our time is the belief that Champagne is not likely to improve with age, that it must be consumed young for maximum pleasure.

Au contraire.

Champagne — the real deal from the Champagne district in northeastern France — is nearly as age-worthy as Bordeaux and Burgundy, two other French wines that collectors prize in their dotage. The chalky soils and cool climate of the Champagne region deserve much of the credit, for they contribute mightily to the firm structure of Champagne.

I have enjoyed the legendary Dom Perignon at more than 40 years old, and more recently the 1985 Charles Heidsieck "Champagne Charlie." Both exhibited freshness that seemed miraculous given their age.

Of course, some Champagnes have greater potential to age than others. To my short list of Champagnes I deem splendid for additional cellar time I have added the brilliant wines of AR Lenoble, specifically the 2008 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, $65, produced from chardonnay grapes grown in the grand cru village of Chouilly.

This is an extremely dry Champagne crafted in the house style preferred by proprietors Anne and Antoine Malassagne. The residual sugar stands at 4 grams per liter, well below the limit of 12 grams permitted for a brut Champagne. Firm and precise, with aromas of brioche and citrus and scintillating minerality, the 2008 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs from AR Lenoble is years, perhaps even decades, away from peak maturity.

It is a Champagne for the ages.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Decoy 2014 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($20) — Decoy is the second label of the more famous Duckhorn winery, but there are similarities. Namely the quality of the sauvignon blanc, which Duckhorn has produced successfully for more than three decades. The Decoy Sauvignon Blanc isn't too shabby, either, and the 2014 is positively delicious, showing aromas of succulent white peach and yellow citrus. That a wine this good is so well priced is an added bonus. Rating: 90.

Bonny Doon 2014 Grenache, "Clos de Gilroy," Monterey ($20) — For lo, these many years I've been calling Bonny Doon's Clos de Gilroy one of the great values in red wine from California. So much to my chagrin, they raised the price. But it still qualifies in the value arena because this a beautifully restrained Grenache (a grape that has a tendency to produce exceptionally high levels of alcohol) that highlights the juicy, red-fruited allure of this southern Rhone (France) grape variety. It thrives in coastal California and this vintage is no exception. Rating: 90.

Bodega Garzon 2013 Tannat, Uruguay ($20) — A rustic grape native to Southwest France, Tannat has found a home in South America, where the sunny climate seems to tame the fierce tannins for which the grape is infamous. That said, the Bodega Garzon is still a meaty, muscular red that calls for strong flavors at the dinner table. Red meat and gamey dishes will do nicely. Rating: 89.

Tasting Notes

Talbott 2013 Chardonnay, Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands ($42) — Year in and year out one of America's finest chardonnays, the Talbott Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay from 2013 is classic Sleepy Hollow and another in a long line of sensational chardonnays from this remarkable vineyard. What sets Sleepy Hollow apart from others is its ability to produce uber-rich chardonnay without losing the acid backbone that gives it freshness and longevity. This vintage shows intense aromas of butterscotch and baked apple, with a note of lemon oil baking spice. And it will only improve in the bottle over the next several years. Rating: 95.

MacRostie 2013 Chardonnay, Sangiacomo Vineyard, Carneros ($44) — Ho hum, just another stunning MacRostie Chardonnay from the Sangiacomo family's iconic Carneros vineyard. So true, but also so exceptional given the consistency of this magnificent vineyard near the town of Sonoma. The cool breezes off the San Pablo Bay help the chardonnay grapes retain acidity and freshness, which is evident in this latest vintage. This one shows nuances of lemon creme and spice, with mouthwatering acidity and a long, lingering finish. Rating: 94.

Laurel Glen 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon "Counterpoint," Sonoma Mountain ($40) — Laurel Glen's "Counterpoint" Cabernet Sauvignon was conceived many years ago by winery founder Patrick Campbell (now retired) as a more approachable cab than the winery's more expensive benchmark cabernet. That might lead some to think Counterpoint is a less "serious" wine, and that would be a mistake. This vintage of Counterpoint is a brilliant wine that shows inviting aromas of red and black fruits, hints of spice and oak vanillin and supple tannins that do indeed make this wine approachable now. But I wouldn't hesitate to cellar it for a decade or more, though the temptation to drink now could prove irresistible. Rating: 93.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.