The Memorial Day weekend officially kicks off the grilling season in most parts of the country. For some, that means stocking the pantry with wines appropriate for the occasion.
What's appropriate ultimately comes down to personal taste, but a few of the many options are universal. First, and perhaps foremost, find out what the grillmeister prefers to drink while slaving over a hot grill on a warm day. For moi, it's a crisp, dry rose. For someone else it might be a minerally gruner veltliner, or a tart sauvignon blanc.
Trust me on this. If the grillmeister is happy, you will be happy.
Second only to keeping the grillmeister refreshed is sizing up the menu to decide which delicious wines from the pantry might please the most. With vast experience in this exercise over multiple decades, I offer a few humble suggestions.
Ahi tuna: chardonnay, riesling or lightly chilled Beaujolais.
Brats: zinfandel, riesling or a savory Cotes-du-Rhone.
Burgers: Cotes-du-Rhone, zinfandel or merlot.
Chicken: pinot noir, chardonnay or pinot gris.
Hot dogs: Beaujolais, riesling, gewurztraminer.
Lobster tails: Champagne, chardonnay, Chablis, premier cru white Burgundy.
Oysters: albarino, gruner veltliner, sauvignon blanc or Champagne.
Ribs: zinfandel, Cotes-du-Rhone, shiraz or syrah.
Salmon: Beaujolais, chardonnay or a dry rose.
Steaks: cabernet sauvignon, rioja, petite sirah or red Bordeaux.
Swordfish: domestic chardonnay, Chablis or Bourgogne blanc.
Quail: pinot noir, Cotes-du-Rhone, dry rose or pinot gris.
Trout: pinot gris, dry riesling, pinot grigio or Bordeaux blanc.
My guiding principles are fairly simple. I try to avoid tannic wines on warm summer days, though when a savory wine is called for, it sometimes requires a cabernet sauvignon or syrah. Generally, though, my emphasis is on fruit-driven wines.
I also like to pair chardonnay with oily fish or fowl that has a high fat content, such as chicken. For flaky fish, such as trout, I like to serve white wines that are crisp and light.
Because of the smoke and spice, zinfandel is generally a good call with grilled meats and sausages. Cotes-du-Rhone and Rioja wines also complement smoky flavors and can handle a touch of sweetness that might be found in many barbecue sauces.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Domaine de CALA 2017 Rose, Coteaux Varois en Provence, France ($15.95) — Warning: The label does not say rose on the front, and the color is only slightly tinged with an onion-skin hew, so it's easily mistaken for a white wine. Make no mistake; the bulk of the blend is grenache and syrah. The result of the nearly colorless rose is a beautiful, crisp, refreshing summer wine that exhibits notes of strawberry and melon with mouthwatering acidity. Rating: 92.
Wakefield 2017 Merlot, Clare Valley, Australia ($16.99) — The Clare, as it is called by the locals, is most famous for its classically proportioned shiraz, but beyond that, most everything else from the Clare is top-notch. The 2017 merlot is soft and supple, shows a distinct floral note and has aromas of plum and black cherry. And it's a steal at this price. Rating: 88.
Talbott Kali Hart 2016 Pinot Noir, Estate Grown, Monterey ($20) — Looking for a solid but expensive pinot noir for the summer barbecue season? The Talbott Kali Hart is an entry-level gem that delivers a burst of dry cherry fruit and a touch of spice with soft, approachable tannins. It never disappoints. Rating: 87.
Tasting Notes
Flora Springs 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($50) — Ultra-smooth is how I would describe this latest Napa Valley cab from Flora Springs. Richly layered with impressive depth and complexity, it exhibits ripe black fruits, hints of mocha and woodspice, and ripe, supple tannins. It's beautifully balanced with exceptional length on the finish. Rating: 94.
Kendall-Jackson 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Reserve, Sonoma County ($28) — Over the past decade or so, K-J has moved into uber-premium California wines in a big way, yet the concept of value hasn't been completely abandoned. The 2014 Grand Reserve Cabernet is a case in point. This is a superb Sonoma County cab that delivers in a big way but at a price well below the competition. Richly layered with notes of blackberry and cassis, a splash of wood spice and beautifully integrated tannins, it's a stunning California cab at less than $30 a bottle. Rating: 93.
Flora Springs 2016 Merlot, Napa Valley ($35) — There are few wineries in California, or even the broader United States, with a better track record for consistency than Flora Springs. The secret to the Flora Springs success is, as the cliche goes, in the vineyards. In the case of Flora Springs, the cliche is the reality, with extensive vineyard holdings (more than 1,000 acres) in the Napa Valley. That allows Flora Springs to produce exceptional wine year after year despite fairly significant volume. The 2016 merlot delivers ripe red-fruited aromas with just a caress of sweet oak and supple tannins. Rating: 90.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. Email Robert at [email protected].
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