By David Latt

The divided highway cut through the countryside like a knife. Above me were mountains covered by brightly colored fall foliage. Driving north from the coastal city Nagoya, my objective was the mountain village of Gujo Hachiman in Gifu Prefecture.

I was in pursuit of off-the-beaten-path adventures in the Shoryudo region in Japan's heartland.

Water defines Gujo Hachiman as much as the mountains. Three rivers —Yoshida, Kodara and Nagara — meet and encircle the town. Water is so important that the site of the first natural-spring well is commemorated with a shrine. Standing guard over the village is Gujo Hachiman Castle, modeled on the original from the 16th century and rebuilt in the early 20th century. I had enjoyed visiting castles as I traveled in the area, but this day I was not in pursuit of a castle, I was looking for plastic replica food.

This lovely village at the foot of rugged mountains with its narrow streets is home to half a dozen workshops that make most of the plastic replica food on display in the windows of Japanese restaurants around the world.

If you ever wondered who made the plastic bowls of ramen and plates of tempura on display in Japanese restaurants, Sample Kobo is the place. When I visited, people were crowded into the retail area looking at plastic replicas of ice cream sundaes, tamago (egg sushi), eel, ramen, French fries, hot dogs in buns, curry with rice, pot stickers, spaghetti, maguro sushi and grilled sardines. I did buy a salmon roe sushi key ring (how could I not!), but I was there not to buy but to make a plastic replica.

Classes are available every day. Kurumi Kono showed me how candle wax was heated to between 140 and 175 F. She handed me a PVC-plastic shrimp (ebi) and asked me to dip the shrimp into the wax and then quickly into a bowl of cool water. Like magic, the hot wax surrounded the shrimp and crinkled as it cooled. When I removed it from the water it looked exactly like a tempura shrimp. Next she showed me how to make a head of lettuce. As carefully as I did with the shrimp, I placed my hands into the water. Kono poured the wax and directed me to cradle the wet sheets in my cupped hand. Within seconds there it was — a perfectly formed mini head of lettuce.

Taking my plastic replicas with me to show my sons when I got home, our next stop was the Museum Gujo Hachiman Hakurankan, which is dedicated to the culture of the area. The intimate museum has a performance area where dancers demonstrate the Gujo Odori dance used in Shinto and Buddhist ceremonies to honor ancestors. The dance to the water spirits is accompanied by flutes, drums and the three-stringed shamisen.

To the delight of a small audience, Atsuko Kozaki and Atuko Qunieda showed us classic dance moves and invited us to join them. With arms outraised I did my best, but the kimono-costumed instructors were so much more elegant.

For 31 nights from mid July to early September, the Gujo Odori Festival is held at outdoor venues around town with thousands attending the joyous celebration. Some nights the dancing continues until dawn. To join in the fun, wear a traditional yukata (a cotton kimono) and geta sandals. If you don't know the moves, just watch the dancers around you.

On a sunny day I walked around the old town looking into the small shops selling new-crop rice, locally produced sake and miso at Kane li-daikokuya, the 100-year-old shop that produces organic miso with no preservatives and needs to be refrigerated. The sake from Gujo is prized because it is produced with pure mountain spring water.

Speaking of spring water, I made a point to find the Sogi Sui Shrine. The 15th-century stone shrine marks the location where an underground stream appeared on the surface. The first of a hundred springs in town, Sogi Sui is revered by local residents.

With so much walking, I needed to take a break. I discovered the Yoshida River Garden Terrace on the bluff overlooking the Yoshida River. I was in no hurry to leave once I sat down at a table on the shaded terrace outside Cafe Cocochi. I sat for a long while enjoying the cool mountain air and watching the river rush by.

WHEN YOU GO

Travel between major destinations in Japan is relatively easy using regularly scheduled trains and buses. To explore the heartland of Japan and reach popular areas outside the cities, traveling by car or hiring a car with a driver and an English-speaking guide is the best way.

Sample Kobo: www.samplekobo.com/shop (in Japanese only)

Yoshida River Garden Terrace (also known as Yoshidagawa Garden Terrace): 887-1 Hachiman-cho Hashimoto-cho, Gujo-shi, Gifu-ken 501-4227

Gujo Hachiman Tourism Association: www.gujohachiman.com/kanko/index_e.html. Consult this English language website for information about restaurants, accommodations, transportation and dates for public attractions such as the Gujo Odori festival and for maps to noteworthy locations such as the Sogi Sui Shrine.

For additional information about the Shoryudo region, please consult https://www.jtbusa.com/shoryudo/

Many restaurant options greet visitors to Igawa Street, Gujo Hachiman, Gifu Prefecture, Shoryudo region, Japan. Photo courtesy of David Latt.

The Yoshida River flows through Gujo Hachiman, Gifu Prefecture, Shoryudo region, Japan. Photo courtesy of David Latt.

David Latt is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.