By Ellen Clark
It was going to be a whirlwind trip. I'd be visiting two of Peru's most famous and tantalizing attractions in four days flat. It would be a study in contrasts, starting with the archeological wonder of Machu Picchu and finishing with the mysterious jungle of the Amazon. I would be going from 8,000 feet to 600 feet, from cool and rainy to hot and steamy, from mountain vistas to lush jungle. Yes, it would have been nice if I had more time, but I didn't, and I was prepared to make the most of the time I did have. So armed with my cameras and a good pair of walking shoes, I was ready to roll.
The only way to get to Machu Picchu is by train either from Cusco or Ollantaytambo. It's a scenic and relaxing ride and stops at Aguas Caliente, the town that sits at the bottom of the hillside road that winds up to Machu Picchu. When the train pulled into the station I gathered up my belongings and walked a short distance past stalls selling souvenirs to the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel.
The buildings at this lovely property are scattered around 12 acres of lush greenery and colorful flowers. The hotel offers a number of activities, including a nature walk and bird-watching, but I opted for what was advertised at a uniquely Andean spa experience. This included a purification session in the hotel's Andean sauna and various treatments using the famous Peruvian coca leaf.
The coca leaf and tea made from coca leaves are said to help lowlanders acclimate to Peru's loftier regions, such as Machu Picchu. But the coco leaf is also one of the essential elements of the magical, religious and medicinal rituals of the Andean tradition and is known to be a natural stimulant. Thought to help detoxify and improve the body's circulation, they were used for my body wrap, while coca oil and cream were used during my heavenly relaxing massage.
It was sprinkling when I finished my treatment, which gave me a perfect excuse to take a short nap. The rain beginning to intensify by the time I went to dinner. As I sipped a chilled white wine and savored a quinoa and corn souffle, a hotel guide gave us the lowdown on the morning trip to Machu Picchu.
Another photographer and I agreed to meet at 5:30 the next morning in front of the gift shop in order to catch the first bus up to Machu Picchu to catch the sunrise. However, when the black sky and steady rain convinced us that sunrise was not going to happen, we headed instead to the restaurant for a cup of coffee. When we hopped on the 6 o'clock bus it was still raining, and the locals were doing a land-office business selling cheap plastic raincoats.
But even in the rain and fog Machu Picchu was an impressive sight to behold. In rain ponchos, our cameras wrapped in plastic, we walked around the remains of a site built centuries before. One of the benefits of the less-than-ideal weather was that the place was not crawling with tourists. We were able to savor the atmosphere and revel in the otherworldly and mystical feeling of this ancient Incan-built complex in relative peace and quiet.
After a couple of hours the rain stopped and bits of blue sky peeked out from the clouds that floated around the mountains and ruins. It was lovely, but my stay was short, and all too soon I was on the train headed to Cusco. After an all-too-brief stay in this beautiful colonial city, I was on my way to the airport to start the second leg of my whirlwind Peru journey.
Just the mere mention of the Amazon made my mind race to the darkly intriguing, mysterious and exotic. I envisioned a steamy, lush jungle setting that was home to everything from huge slithering snakes to fantastic bird life and from chattering monkeys to large black crocodiles. It has been on my got-to-go list for eons, so I was really looking forward to my second and final Peru adventure.
At the airport I boarded a flight to Puerto Maldonado, the closest airport to my final destination, the Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion. As we got close to landing all I could see out of the window was a blanket of green. I exited the plane and was assailed by a blast of hot and humid air. Fortunately transportation from the airport to the river was in what looked like an open-air truck bed with seats. After a short ride I climbed into a boat and headed for the lodge.
Adjacent to the lower Madre de Dios River region of Tambopata National Reserve, the hotel's grounds are part of a tropical rainforest that is characterized by high annual rainfall, dense plant growth and warm temperatures. It is said that two-thirds of the world's plant and animal species make their homes in these jungle regions, with many more waiting to be discovered.
The Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion is built on the grounds of a former cacao and rubber plantation and located within more than 2,000 acres of national rainforest. This rainforest acts as a buffer zone between Tambopata National Park Reserve and the shores of the Madre de Dios River.
My quarters for the next couple of days consisted of a little stand-alone cottage surrounded by lush greenery and exotic, brightly colored flowers. Inside was a bedroom, bath and screened-in sitting area with views of more greenery and other cottages.
After lunch, Carlos, one of the lodge's naturalist guides, took some of the guests out on a nature walk. He educated us about some of the local flora and fauna, while we watched chattering monkeys swing from the trees high about our heads. Before dinner we went for a boat trip in the hopes of seeing one of the elusive alligator-related black caiman. Unfortunately they weren't appearing for us, but we did get an introduction to the blinding thunderstorms typical of the region.
Back at the lodge we sipped pisco sours and chose the next morning's tour. A number of people opted for the four-mile hike to Sandoval Lake. Since mud was promised, participants were outfitted with knee-high Wellington rubber boots and told to show up the next morning at 6:30 sharp. I've slogged through knee deep mud before and had no interest in repeating the experience, so I opted for a canoe ride around the lodge's small private lake where I could photograph bird life.
It turned out the hike was not four miles but more like six, and the mud was even more impressive than advertised. I was very happy with my choice and with the photos I managed to shoot during the leisurely paddle around the lake.
By afternoon the rain had started again, but that didn't stop me from my final Amazon adventure — taking the much-talked-about canopy walk. Dressed in a waterproof poncho, I climbed up one of the 115-foot observation towers and proceeded to cautiously navigate the seven swaying bridges, outfitted with special cables and lateral mesh, that hung suspended over the forest floor. Not much beats walking among the treetops in the Peruvian Amazon — a fitting finale to my whirlwind trip to fabulous Peru.
WHEN YOU GO
Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel:
www.inkaterra.com/.../inkaterra-machu-picchu-pueblo-hotel
Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion:
www.inkaterra.com/inkaterra/inkaterra-hacienda-concepcion
Inca Rail: www.incarail.com
Ellen Clark is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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