By Patricia Woeber
On a clear day, as the ferry left the town of Bodoe for the Lofoten Islands to the west, my first view of them was a sheer wall — a monumental swath of mountains etched in my memory forever. The Lofoten is an archipelago with seven principal islands north of the Arctic Circle. When we arrived at Moskenes Island, I drove my rental car off the ferry and headed north on the E10. Hermannsdalstind (3,500 feet) looms as the highest peak. Bridges or tunnels link the main islands of Moskenesoy, Austvagoy, Vestvagoy and Flakstadoy.
It took a short drive to reach Reine, the picturesque village where I first saw the characterisitic wooden fishermen's cabins known as rorbuer (rorbu is single). They balance half on the rocky land and half on stilts in the sea. Reine is known as the most beautiful place in Norway — high praise since the country possesses gloriously beautiful nountains and deep coastal fjords.
During my week's stay I learned that location and topography determined the texture of life and work. Cod fishing is the major industry. Cod are hung to dry in the open air on hjell, large wooden racks. The fish normally weighs about 11 pounds, although they can reach 110. As many as 60 million pounds have been caught in a year here. The majority are exported to Italy and Holland.
Catches also include herring, saithe (pollack), haddock and others, while salmon are farmed. The prime fishing season is in winter as the sea remains navigable. The nearby Gulf Stream brings warmth even though the icy waters of the Arctic aren't far off.
Near Reine, on tiny Sakrisoy Island, I slept for two nights in Dagmar's Dollhouse. Dagmar, the vivacious owner, has a museum of dolls, many antique.
"Before the bridge was built in 1981 we had to row everywhere," she said, as she led me to a rorbu, now used for tourists. The ancient wood-timbered interior reflected its traditional cabin character — reminding me of the spare style of Quaker homes.
Islands always gave me a strong sense of liberty. Their separation from the mainlands seems to add some sort of magic, as if the watery expanses diffuse regular cares and worries. Daily I explored more islands on roads that hugged the rocky shores, curled around sheltered inlets and gave breathtaking sea vistas, while always the sheer, staccato peaks soared above. As the afternoon shadows deepened, the mountains appeared to soar even higher.
Birch, mountain ash and willows grow on flat areas. The ever-present seagulls swooped, while I watched for other birds. Some 200,000 cormorants have the largest colonies. Two million puffins inhabit Vaeroy and Rost, small islands reached by ferry. I hoped to see them, but there was insufficient time.
When it rained, the locals always insisted, "Wait an hour or two and it will change again." They said they loved their weather, no matter what. In a drizzle on Vestvagoy Island, I strolled around tiny Nusfjord, the best-preserved fishing village in Norway, a gem snuggled below the crags. On Flakstadoy Island Ramberg Gjestegard (a restaurant) served the most delicious seafood salad: mussels, shrimp, salmon, mackerel, trout and more.
Nearby, at Borg, the Viking Museum, a reconstructed chieftain's house from the Iron Age, offers handicraft demonstrations with authentic Viking tools. Several museums and art galleries dot the islands.
On Austvagoya Island, Henningsvaer village is a delight for lovers of arts and crafts. The Lofoten Harr Gallery and several others display outstanding paintings that capture the dramas of light and shade on Lofoten's land and seascapes.
Henningsvaer is admired as "the Venice of the North," as it's built on islands interspersed with canals lined with colorful buildings, boats and quays. My stay in the Finnholmen Brygge hotel was a perfect site to enjoy the colors and reflections.
My final nights were on tiny Svinoya Island, where the rorbuer were painted a deep red with white trim. The reception office in the original general store carried fishing equipment that included hooks, weights and wool mittens. My rorbu No. 15 had hosted the Queen of Norway, and its views looked out onto sea, rocks, bobbing gulls and a huge mountain beyond.
Another delight on Svinoya was Borsen Spiseri Restaurant in an 1828 quay warehouse for fine dining. I tucked into the freshest halibut with a cream sauce and rhubarb for dessert. The meals were great, the cabins were fun and the people friendly.
Actually my whole week was a pleasure. The islands thrill with their unspoilt, memorable beauty.
WHEN YOU GO
Air Norway and SAS fly to Norway. Hertz, Budget and Europcar rental cars can be reserved for Bodoe airport. Car ferries depart from Bodoe and Skutvik. March and April is the high fishing season, and high tourist season is June through late August. May and September are lower-priced.
Outdoor activities includle fishing, cycling, hiking, mountain-climbing, birding, golf, canoeing, kayaking.
Cruises go to the Maelstrom (whirlpool); January to April, watch skrei (spawning cod) migrate from the Barents Sea to the Lofotens; mid-October to November follow pods of orcas chasing herring.
For more information, visit Lofoten Tourist Office at www.lofoten-tourist.no or the Norwegian Tourist Board at www.visitnorway.com.
Patricia Woeber is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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