By Victor Block

A gleaming white-sand beach that rims the azure sea is set off by an explosion of scarlet, purple and other vivid colors of lush tropical foliage. Nearby, stretches of rocks and pebbly soil interspersed with cactus comprise a different bleak, desertlike terrain.

The extraordinary variety of landscapes that visitors to Aruba discover is echoed by the equal diversity of its attractions. For example, Aruba's white-sand beaches are among the most beautiful in the Caribbean. Then there are the touches of European charm that abound around the island.

While both Spain and Great Britain held sway over Aruba in the past, the Dutch took it over in 1636 and it has remained under their control since then. Today the island is an autonomous member of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Reminders of its Dutch heritage are everywhere.

One distinctive landmark is an authentic windmill built in 1804 that once drained water from low-lying areas of Holland. In 1960 the structure was taken apart, shipped to Aruba and reassembled in its unlikely Caribbean setting, where it has housed several restaurants and nightclubs.

Not surprisingly, most people visit Aruba for its palm tree-lined beaches overlooking crystal-clear water. A magnificent seven-mile stretch of beaches backs up to the high-rise hotels that rim the sheltered southwestern and western coastline. The windswept northern and eastern coasts, which are battered by the sea, have been left largely undeveloped.

Each stretch of shoreline, along with the arid island interior, has its own appeals. Rugged limestone cliffs that run along much of the northeastern coastline mark one boundary of Arikok National Park, an ecological preserve that sprawls over nearly 20 percent of Aruba.

Hiking trails crisscross the park, and those that lead through its more isolated areas offer opportunities to spot native parakeets, burrowing owls and other wildlife that make it their home.

Intriguing chapters of Aruba's history come alive in this setting. Shallow cave formations recall a time when a branch of Arawak Indians inhabited the island. Brownish-red drawings that ornament walls and ceilings attest to their presence. Reminders of Aruba's agricultural past in the park include a long-deserted adobe farmhouse, while abandoned mines recall a small gold rush that got underway in 1825 and lasted for nearly a century.

Speaking of gold, the 12 casinos on the island have earned it the nickname "Las Vegas of the Caribbean." While most casinos are located in major resort hotels, there are two in Oranjestad, Aruba's capital and largest city.

Oranjestad's other attractions include Dutch colonial architecture in a variety of pastel colors, with some buildings dating back to the late 18th century. The busy port teems with the coming and going of boats, and sidewalks are filled with crowds of sightseers and shoppers. Jewelry, designer fashions and perfumes are popular buys, along with blue Delft ceramics and Dutch cheeses.

When not spending money on shopping or gambling, visitors have a choice of several small but interesting museums. The Archaeological Museum is housed in a cluster of colorfully painted homes that were occupied by a local family for nearly 130 years beginning in 1870. The exhibits inside showcase the history of Indians on Aruba, ranging from an ancient longhouse and native hut to artifacts dating back as far as 2500 B.C.

The Historical Museum of Aruba is in Fort Zoutman. That fortification was built in 1796-1798 to protect the island from pirates, and the town soon began to grow around it. The museum has exhibits about farming, fishing and other aspects of island life, including interesting tidbits about villages that I had explored. The town of Noord, for example, began as an Indian community, while the hamlet of Rancho was established as a fishing village around 1855.

Stops at other small villages also provide introductions to what locals call "the real Aruba." San Nicolas is the second largest town after Oranjestad, but it is worlds away in atmosphere. While it once jumped to the beat of workers from the now-abandoned nearby oil refinery, it's usually on the quiet side these days.

A mini promenade along the main street is lined by several shops and restaurants, but the biggest draw in town is Charlie's Bar. Beginning in the early 1940s, scuba divers who dropped by the establishment attached their underwater finds to the walls and ceiling, creating what eventually evolved into a bric-a-brac heaven. Virtually every inch of available space is adorned with automobile license plates, paper money, business cards from around the world and other mementoes.

The main claim to fame of Paradera village is its location close to two intriguing natural sites that were sacred places to the Indians. The Ayo and Casibari rock formations consist of huge boulders that rise up from the sandy desert terrain. Over time prevailing winds have carved the rocks into unusual shapes that, with a little imagination on the part of the viewer, resemble birds, dragons and other identifiable figures.

Steps have been carved into the rock at the Casibari site, and those who climb to the top are rewarded with a panoramic view of the island. Some of the stones at Ayo still bear petroglyphs scratched and painted onto the surface by Indian artists.

WHEN YOU GO

For more information about Aruba, call 800-862-7822 or visit www.aruba.com.

. This windmill that once drained the Dutch lowlands was taken apart and reassembled in Aruba in 1960. Photo courtesy of Len Kaufman.

Most people who come to Aruba for its beaches are surprised to see that a desert is also part of its landscape. Photo courtesy of Len Kaufman.

Victor Block is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.