One of the world's greatest wine grapes is cabernet sauvignon, a variety native to Bordeaux, where it produces some of the finest wines ever made. The variety can make a wine that lasts 30 or 40 years and still delivers character.

This variety does have a few drawbacks, however. It is relatively astringent and can produce red wines with copious tannins, which can be gritty on the tongue and bitter in the aftertaste.

Even so, modern winemaking techniques have been employed for the last 30 or 40 years and have succeeded in producing cabernet sauvignon wines that are drinkable when they are young, do not require much aging in a cellar, and still may be purchased for reasonable prices.

Unfortunately, there is another drawback with cabernet sauvignon. Many are being produced that do not smell or taste much like cabernet. For people who aren't all that picky, this isn't a huge problem. I've tasted dozens of these wines and don't love them, but they serve a purpose. Many people do like them.

There is a grape variety that has some of the same characteristics as cabernet sauvignon but often has a little more personality and a little less tannin. It seems to work at least as well with red meats as cabernet sauvignon does.

This grape is cabernet franc. Genetically, it is one of the two parents of cabernet sauvignon. The other is sauvignon blanc.

California has an overabundance of cabernet sauvignon planted around the state in hundreds of locations. It seems to do exceedingly well in the Napa Valley, where it is warm, which the variety really likes.

Cabernet franc, by contrast, is a blue-fruited, small-berry version of cabernet sauvignon. I have found it far more interesting than many of the red wine grapes that are planted in the state. However, franc (some people call it by its last name) can be more expensive than cabernet sauvignon.

Cabernet franc also grows beautifully in France's Loire Valley, where it became popular with French kings who built summer castles in that region that today are still worth visiting. Several different Loire districts produce cabernet franc wines.

One of the most successful is Chinon (shee-nohn). Wine lovers who really appreciate distinctiveness often look for red wines with the Chinon name as an alternative to the roughness of cabernet sauvignon.

I first discovered Chinon when it was recommended to me 45 years ago by a wine server who suggested it would go well with my grilled king salmon. It did. Most franc wines don't need much barrel aging because of their silky structure.

Decanting a franc an hour before serving often helps develop its aromatics. Several California wineries produce a varietal cabernet franc. The best sell for $50 to $75 per bottle, with some even pricier than that.

Fortunately, most Loire producers have kept their prices reasonable, and good-quality cabernet franc wines can be found for between $15 and $35.

Wine of the Week: 2021 Domaine Dozon Clos du Saut au Loup, Chinon ($30) — The fresh and dried berry aromas lean toward blueberry and red cherry. There is ample fruit in the midpalate and enough tannin so the wine works nicely with rich meat dishes. Frequently discounted. (I've seen it as low as $15.)

To find out more about Sonoma County resident Dan Berger ([email protected]) and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate webpage at www.creators.com.

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