One of the greatest charms of white and rose wines is that they taste fresh and fruity when they are young. The same is true of many young red wines, including Beaujolais, the delicate red from Burgundy, which we wrote about here recently.

Some red wines do, of course, improve with time in the bottle. Classic European red wines like red Bordeaux and rich reds from the Rhone Valley often are best with additional aging.

However, the charms that white wines show when they are young do not always mean that some of them do not age well. Many whites develop such an amazing depth of character after a few extra years in a cellar that wine lovers cherish them.

Unfortunately, there are almost no rules that consumers can rely on to determine which white wines will improve in the bottle and which will deteriorate rapidly. And attempting to age them without the proper storage conditions usually fails.

Constant cool or even cold temperatures are generally best when aging any wine. Variable temperature conditions frequently are disastrous. But which white wines are best to age?

The answer to this question depends on the taster. People who appreciate mature white wines usually have lots of experience with such unusual items. And to appreciate them calls for understanding that some can be a little odd after a long-aging experience.

For instance, some superior chardonnays can be utterly delightful after several years in a cellar, but only those wines specifically designed for aging will deliver the complexities of age. Many such wines will die an ugly death.

The same is true of dry rieslings. A few that were made with sufficient acidity can develop fascinating aromas that riesling lovers adore — but which may be off-putting to those who are unfamiliar with them.

One of my favorite white wines that develops fascinating characteristics over time is sauvignon blanc. Those that do best with age are SBs that grew in areas in which substantial acid helps the wine's fruit evolve.

Such wines frequently develop aromas similar to grass, wet hay, or dried tea leaves.

Domestic pinot gris is usually a wine that is best consumed young, but carefully made wines from this grape occasionally develop nicely with three to four years of additional age.

The same seems to be true of blends of white wine grapes from the Rhone Valley (like grenache blanc, viognier, rousanne, and marsanne).

Semillon is another variety that seems to do extremely well after years in the bottle. My favorite of these comes from the Hunter Valley in Australia, many of which are exceptional at age 10 or even 20!

However, one crucial aspect of attempts to age white wines for added complexity is that any such effort is likely to fail if the wine is not made with proper acidity and other structural elements that are permitted to develop.

Wine of the Week: 2023 Dry Creek Vineyards Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg ($18) — The gorgeous aroma of fresh melons and peaches and a hint of Mandarin tangerines mark this youthful and vibrant white wine. It is relatively dry but has a trace of succulence that makes it a delight to sip on a picnic or a patio. Although it is probably best to consume as young as possible, it also takes on attractive elements with a few more years in the bottle.

Dan Berger lives in Sonoma County, California, where he publishes "Vintage Experiences," a weekly wine newsletter. Write to him at [email protected]. To find out more about Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate webpage at www.creators.com.

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