Historically, the majority of red wines produced around the world have been dry without sweetness, so they can best accompany savory foods.

By contrast, I'd guess that perhaps 75% of the white wines being produced today have some residual sugar. White wines are intended either as food accompaniments or as sip-alone aperitifs.

However, in recent decades, there has been a terrible trend among many "dry" wines to be "softened" — they are being produced with less acidity to appeal to wine newcomers. Completely dry wine is less likely to be found than in the past.

This trend has led to numerous wines, including "dry reds," to be made with actual sugar, including many expensive wines that were once intended to age. The new sweeter reds are angering wine purists.

Dry reds that once were made to improve in the bottle usually cannot age well if they are made with sugar. And such low-acid and/or sweet wines, including very expensive bottles, will anger collectors who find out 10 or 20 years later that the wines have not aged well.

This includes pricey California cabernets and zinfandels. Wineries almost always obfuscate the truth. I do not know of a single winery that's making a low-acid or sweet cabernet or dry red blend that admits the wine is sweet, even if a patron asks before buying.

The other tactic that has been used includes extremely low acidity or high pH levels, both of which will compromise a red wine's aging potential. Such wines do not pair well with food.

This "softening" trend has been disappointing at best and affects all wine lovers who desire dry reds to work with savory foods. Which makes purchasing dry reds so difficult.

But there are several ways around this. One way is to acquire a taste for French or Italian red wines. Or, reds from Portugal or Spain.

Sad to say, I see the trend toward sweetness and softness as a particularly American trait and an odious one at that. I have nothing, per se, against sweetness in wine. But those who prefer truly dry wines find the trend so upsetting that many have essentially abandoned domestic vino.

This has led to a further downturn in U.S. sales that has been attributed to other factors as well.

In the last few years, I have purchased far more chianti, barolo, langhe nebbiolo, barbera, chinon, beaujolais, cotes du rhone and rioja than I have domestic reds. Quality imports tend to be more authentic than domestic products.

This also applies in some ways to white wines, such as Spanish whites (alberino, verdejo) and Italian wines grillo, soave, roero, gavi, vernaccia and vermentino.

Another reason to consider wines like these is that usually they are priced more reasonably than are widely popular varieties.

Wine tip of the Week: One of my favorite red wines from Italy is called langhe nebbiolo, made from the grape that also makes Italy's sensational barolo wines. Nebbiolo, which grows in the cooler northwest of Italy, is a lighter red grape. Its wine is often easier to drink when young than an age-worthy barolo. It is almost always dry and works nicely with a wide variety of meats.

To find out more about Sonoma County resident Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate webpage at www.creators.com.

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