When the Sommelier Challenge was conceived in San Diego more than a dozen years ago, the profession was undergoing a renaissance. The image of a snobby sommelier full of condescension (never really an accurate portrayal) was melting away as a generation of young, eager wine professionals embraced the quest for advanced and master sommelier status.
What struck me as founder and director of the challenge was the remarkable thirst for knowledge exhibited by the first participants. Several wrote afterward thanking me for organizing such a splendid blind tasting.
Tasting blind, or unaware of the producer or price of the wine, is a useful tool in the ongoing education of sommeliers. The challenge allowed them to do just that with a broad cross-section of wines from around the globe.
It also levels the playing field for entrants. Wines are judged solely on the basis of quality, as opposed to reputation. The end result (and all of the results are available at SommelierChallenge.com) demonstrates a number of truths that cut against conventional wisdom.
First, the idea that price is the final arbiter of quality is false. The Sommelier Challenge awards silver, gold and platinum medals, platinum being the highest rung on the ladder. At the 12th annual challenge, last month in San Diego, numerous platinum winners cost $100 or more retail. And there were a number of platinum wines below the $20 mark. Bottom line: It's what's in the glass that matters.
Second, there is no question superior terroir produces outstanding wines, but that doesn't mean Monterey and Temecula and France's less desirable regions, such as the Languedoc, can't produce wines on equal footing with those from Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Napa Valley. This week's tasting notes include a petite sirah from Temecula Valley and a syrah from Monterey that are world-class. Each earned a platinum at the challenge.
Finally, there is a lesson in all of this for the rest of us. Preconceived notions about wine often prevent us from experimenting with less renowned wines, depriving us of untold tasting experiences that could deliver untold pleasure. Sometimes it's good to sit back and let a passionate sommelier be your guide.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Marques de Caceres 2015 Excellens Cuvee Especial, Rioja Crianza DOCa, Spain ($19.99) — This lovely crianza is 100% tempranillo. It shows excellent depth and palate weight for a crianza, with notes of earthy black cherry and blueberry, dusty tannins and excellent balance. It's sure to improve with another few years in the cellar. Rating: 92.
Tasting Notes
Wallis Family Estate 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon 'Seraphim,' Diamond Mountain District ($175) — This is the Wallis family's hotrod cabernet from Diamond Mountain, and it definitely has the horsepower for the role. Rich and dense, with impressive depth, this is a darkly fruited cabernet that has that rare combination of power and elegance. Notes of ripe cassis and black fruits dominate. There's a touch of wood spice and ample tannin for the long haul, though the wine drinks exceptionally well at this young stage. Rating: 97.
Tara Bella Winery 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, Russian River Valley ($80) — Though the Russian River is best known for its rich pinot noirs, other grape varieties thrive there including the notoriously heat-seeking cabernet sauvignon. Tara Bella has crafted an elegant and beautiful cab from the 2014 vintage. Showing complex red and dark fruit notes, with supple tannins and impressive length, this is a cab you can enjoy now or hold for another five to 10 years. Rating: 96.
Danza del Sol 2015 Petite Sirah, Temecula Valley ($40) — The shame of these nice wines from Temecula, one hour north of San Diego, is that few of them make it into broad distribution because of limited production and robust direct sales at the winery. That said, if you can find it, the Danza del Sol petite sirah is a gem of a petite sirah, showing aromas of blueberry and blackberry with moderate tannins and a touch of sweet oak spice on the finish. Rating: 94.
De Tierra 2016 Syrah, Monterey ($49) — Monterey County isn't especially known for success with the Rhone grape varieties, but De Tierra could well be the catalyst that changes the thinking. Its 2016 vintage syrah is a meaty beauty that exhibits impressive palate weight and depth, with gorgeous aromas of blueberry and wood spice. On the palate the wine is richly layered and full-bodied but nicely structured with a bit of grip on the finish. Rating: 94.
Mappinga 2017 Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, Australia ($35) — The cool nights in the Adelaide Hills instill freshness in the region's white wines, and that's the signature characteristic of this beauty from Mappinga. Fresh and clean, with crisp aromas of green apple and pear, a light touch of wood spice and a clean finish, this is a very pure example of chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills. Rating: 94.
Shamwari Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley ($38) — From an exceptional vintage, the Shamwari cabernet sauvignon is a smooth beauty that shows juicy red-fruit aromas and a distinct thread of minerality that is intriguing if unusual. Rating: 93.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. Email Robert at [email protected].
Photo credit: edusoft at Pixabay
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