How much should a bottle of wine cost? I pose the question because I was intrigued recently by an online rant from a professional sommelier, who shall remain nameless, incensed that anyone would pay more than $300 (retail) for a bottle of Opus One.

The angry somm vowed to never put Opus on his wine list — even if customers clamored for it. He vowed instead to offer a $50 Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon that would be just as good. To do otherwise, he surmised, would relegate him to the role of mere order taker.

It's an interesting premise, though flawed, from my perspective. There are a multitude of reasons, other than quality, that would inspire a consumer to pop for an expensive bottle of wine. I do it from time to time, though I'm generally inclined to scan the wine list for wines that deliver the best bang for the buck.

The most obvious reason, of course, is the special occasion. When dining out to celebrate, I am drawn to restaurants with impressive wine lists because I walk in intending to purchase a wine that can deliver a memorable experience. That could mean a rare wine outside my usual orbit, or an older vintage of something tried and true. In either case, the objective would be to enjoy a special wine fitting for a special moment.

Opus, particularly an older vintage, would fall into that category. It's an iconic winery founded by two of the most renowned vintners in history, Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild. I treasure restaurant wine lists that provide such options.

I'm also not daunted by the cost when I compare the $300 retail price with the staggering cost of a First Growth Bordeaux ($1,000 and up) or a California cult cabernet (a bottle of Screaming Eagle will set you back about $1,500, if you can get your hands on one).

There is a time and place for Opus One. In a fine dining setting, celebrating a special occasion with good friends who appreciate the winery's history and its reputation for impeccable viticulture and winemaking, the price seems about right.

Tasting Notes

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Attilio Ghisolfi 2014 Barolo, Bussia, Italy ($69.99) — Still a baby, the 2014 Barolo Bussia from Attilio Ghisolfi is firm and grippy, concealing impressive depth that likely will take as long as a decade to show its true colors. The nose shows cherry fruit and a floral earthiness. On the palate the wine exhibits intense cherry aroma with hints of leather and spice. This is one for the cellar. Put it away in a dark, cool place for at least another six years. Rating: 96

Attilio Ghisolfi 2016 Barbera d'Alba 'Maggiora,' Italy ($29.99) — In the Piedmont region of northern Italy, the stars of Barolo and Barbaresco cast a long shadow. So much so that those two icons of Italian wine overshadow the region's other superb red wine, Barbera, the Rodney Dangerfield of Piedmont. For the record, Barbera can be splendid on the same scale, though the price hardly reflects that. The 2016 Maggiora Barbera from Attilio Ghisolfi is a great example. This vintage delivers richness and depth, ripe dark fruits and a serious touch of wood spice. It's a sensational wine. Will anyone notice? I certainly hope so. Rating: 94.

Black Kite 2016 Pinot Noir, Gap's Crown, Sonoma Coast ($60) — Elegance is the word that comes to mind for this vintage of Black Kite's Gap's Crown Pinot Noir. On the palate the Gap's Crown is suave and supple, with a light touch that belies its underlying richness. Notes of dark cherry and baking spice dominate, and the wine exhibits impressive length. Although ready to drink now, another year or two in the cellar would be of benefit. Rating: 94.

Wakefield 2016 Chardonnay, Jaraman, Clare Valley-Adelaide Hills, Australia ($25) — Rich and voluptuous on the palate, yet bright and edgy, this is a beautifully structured chardonnay from two of South Australia's cooler climates. Showing complex notes of pear, apple and lemon oil, this dynamic chardonnay finishes on a spicy note. Rating: 93.

Attilio Ghisolfi 2016 Nebbiolo, Langhe, Italy ($29.99) — Nebbiolo may be the money grape of Piedmont, but only if grown in the communes of Barolo and Barbaresco. In the Langhe, where it also thrives, the prices pale compared to a top-notch Barolo. This vintage from Attilio Ghisolfi has plenty of grip, same as in Barolo and Barbaresco, along with a floral nose, intense red-fruit aromas and a touch of wood spice. It's a superb Nebbiolo and costs a fraction of the price of a good Barolo. Rating: 91.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.