Despite the wine industry's huge transition to screw-cap closures in recent years, it seems the old-fashioned cork closure is here to stay, particularly for premium red wines that are often crafted to improve with age.
Tradition certainly factors in to the equation as we cling to our corks, but advancements in technology and common-sense production practices (such as storing and transporting the bark from cork trees on steel rather than wood pallets) have eliminated many of the issues that caused wineries to seek an alternative in the first place.
That said, it is not unusual for even good cork to deteriorate over time and flummox attempts to extract it elegantly from the bottle. This was driven home to me recently when I attempted to open two bottles of aged Port from the 2000 vintage.
The conventional waiter's corkscrew was useless, as the corks shredded during extraction. A rescue operation was necessary. There are a couple of options for successfully extracting a damaged cork.
The first and best option is to use a two-pronged oso rather than the traditional screwpull. If inserted properly, it will grab the cork on both sides and extract the damaged cork in one piece.
If that operation isn't successful — it's not as easy as it looks — the other option is to push the cork into the bottle until the neck is clear. This can be messy and will likely leave pieces of cork floating in the wine. It is best to then decant the wine through a tea strainer or a similar kitchen tool, thus removing the cork particles.
So, yes, traditional corks are better than ever. But it still pays to be prepared and have the proper tools when that good old-fashioned cork lets you down.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Cameron Hughes 2013 Meritage, Lot 484, Napa Valley ($19) — If you're looking for sensational wine on a tight budget, Cameron Hughes is a good bet almost every time. This brand purchases lots of wine from some of the world's finest wineries and repackages it under its own label, revealing only the composition of the blend and the origin of the grapes. The Lot 484 red Meritage is sourced from the Napa Valley and shows all of the qualities you've come to expect from a Napa Valley Meritage. Notes of cassis and blackberry dominate, while a hint of oak vanillin and wood spice linger in the background. And for a superb Napa Valley Meritage, you can't beat the price. Rating: 94.
Cupcake Vineyards 2015 Moscato d'Asti DOCG, Italy ($15) — Cupcake's 2015 Moscato d'Asti shows intense white flower on the nose, stone fruits and melon on the palate and just enough sweetness to balance the acidity. Serve this wine with fruit tarts, cakes and cookies. Rating: 92.
Tasting Notes
Bolla 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC, Italy ($45) — No winery in Italy has come further faster than Bolla, once known mostly for the blandness of its wines. Bolla has improved across the board, and its 2011 Amarone is nothing less than sensational. It shows ripe cherry and raisin notes, an intriguing earthiness and a remarkable persistence in the finish. Rating: 96.
Navarro Vineyards 2014 Pinot Noir, Deep End Blend, Anderson Valley ($55) — This small family-run winery in Mendocino, California's Anderson Valley continues to amaze. The 2014 Deep End pinot is a brooding wine that probably needs another two to three years in the cellar to reach its potential. Showing layers of red fruit and gentle notes of wood spice, this pinot is a keeper and will continue to improve over the next eight to 10 years. Rating: 96.
MacMurray Estate Vineyards 2014 Pinot Noir, Estate ($23) — Showing notes of lavender and cherry, MacMurray's estate pinot is a reminder of the rich palate of flavors and elegance that's typical of the Russian River Valley. This gorgeous wine is beautifully balanced, spicy and exquisitely delicate. Rating: 95.
Windrun 2013 Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills ($33) — This effort from Windrun exhibits the trademark ripeness of the Santa Rita Hills, a cool coastal region in Santa Barbara County that is ideal for pinot noir and allows for long hang time and flavor development on the vine. The concession to the cool climate is the bit of bite on the finish. Those are firm grape tannins that will soften over time. Rating: 95.
Rodney Strong 2014 Chardonnay, Estate, Chalk Hill ($22) — Rodney Strong's Chalk Hill Chardonnay is one of the most consistently brilliant California chardonnays in its price category. It shows notes of lemon oil and pear, hints of wood spice, and beautiful length and balance. A platinum award-winner at the 2016 Sommelier Challenge. Rating: 94.
Francis Ford Coppola Director's Cut 2014 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($27) — This delicate pinot from the Russian River shows exceptional balance with a pretty, floral note on the nose and a touch of earthy forest floor and fall spice on the palate. It's another of these rockin' under-$30 pinots that are increasingly finding their way into the market. Rating: 92.
All wines except the Francis Ford Coppola pinot were platinum award-winners at the 2016 Sommelier Challenge.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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