The long Labor Day weekend serves to remind us that the end of summer is on the horizon.
It's time to drink up and enjoy those lighter (Can you say rose?) summer wines that we prize for their refreshing style. This week's "Wine Talk" recommendations are dedicated to 10 gorgeous white, red and rose wines that have what I choose to call "summer flair."
They are easy to drink, affordable and in some cases a bit eclectic, such as the unoaked chardonnay from Balletto, the Malbec rose from Ladera and the pinot blanc from Dutton-Goldfield. In other cases, such as the Chateau Souverain chardonnay or the cabernet sauvignon from Franciscan, they are simply wonderful value wines with a solid pedigree.
And any one of them would be right at home with salmon, chicken or sirloin hot off the grill this Labor Day weekend.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Balletto 2017 Chardonnay, Teresa's Unoaked, Russian River Valley ($20) — As a general rule, domestic chardonnay made without oak fermentation or aging tend to be bland. There are exceptions, and the Teresa's Unoaked from Balletto is an excellent example. Crisp and clean with refreshing acidity, this vintage shows notes of green apple and pear on the palate. The finish is long and inviting. Rating: 90.
Chateau Souverain 2016 Chardonnay, California ($14) — In its modest price range, Chateau Souverain is an industry leader. This vintage is beautifully balanced, and it shows notes of pear and lemon, a slightly oily texture and outstanding palate weight. The finish is long and spicy. Rating: 89.
Murphy-Goode 2014 Merlot, California ($15) — This fruit-driven release from Murphy-Goode shows notes of plum, blueberry and black cherry with soft tannins. It has excellent value for the price. Rating: 87.
Tasting Notes
Jermann 2016 Pinot Grigio, Venezia Giulia IGT, Italy ($30) — Jermann is one of the most respected wine names in northern Italy. How Jermann treats pinot grigio, a wine that is too often mass-produced and dumbed down, goes a long way toward explaining the winery's lofty status. The 2016 pinot grigio from the Venezia Giulia IGT shows remarkable finesse, a textured palate, refined aromas of lime and clean minerality. Bright and refreshing with mouthwatering acidity, it is a benchmark pinot grigio from the region. Rating: 94.
Dutton-Goldfield 2017 Pinot Blanc, Dutton Ranch/Shop Block, Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($30) — The rap on pinot blanc, at least those made domestically, is that they tend to be boring and lacking in character. Not so with this Dutton-Goldfield beauty, which shows complex aromas of nectarine, orange peel and white peach, beautiful balance and impressive length. Rating: 93.
Franciscan 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($22) — This vintage from Franciscan is the personification of a "now" wine, meaning it is delicious right now. No need to lay it down in the cellar for a decade to see what it can do. Showing impressive richness with supple tannins and a profile of juicy, ripe dark fruit, it's a wine that can be enjoyed tonight at a fantastic price given the quality. Rating: 92.
Ladera 2017 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($30) — This complex sauvignon is made in a Bordeaux style, showing a balance of richness combined with mouthwatering acidity and a subtle note of wood spice. Notes of white peach and citrus form the fruit profile. The wine is beautifully balanced and long in the finish. Rating: 92.
Ladera 2017 Malbec Rose, Napa Valley ($30) — This gem of a dry rose offers notes of watermelon, citrus and strawberry with a hint of savory herbs. It's beautifully balanced, too. Rating: 91.
Acumen 2017 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($30) — One of the Napa Valley's best-kept secrets is the success of its sauvignon blanc. It's understandable, to be sure, because of the long shadow cast by the valley's excellent cabernet sauvignon. This gem from Acumen offers notes of white peach, melon and citrus, is beautifully balanced and is just the sort of fresh white wine you will want on a warm summer day. Rating: 90.
Copain 2017 Rose of Pinot Noir, Tous Ensemble, Mendocino County ($25) — California vintners, after decades of fear and loathing, are finally getting dialed in to the beauty of dry rose. And this one is a beauty, showing floral notes, a touch of citrus, savory herbs and lifted strawberry. Crisp with lip-smacking acidity, it's built to pair with grilled chicken, sausages and salmon or simply be on its own. Rating: 90 points.
Pascal Jolivet 2017 Sancerre Rose, France ($23) — It's clean and refreshing, with notes of strawberry and dried herbs, and excellent balance. Rating: 90 points.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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