Oasis in the Desert

By Robert Whitley

August 9, 2016 7 min read

My summer break took me on a two-week journey through the picturesque Southwestern United States. The tour launched from San Diego, California, by car and included stops in Scottsdale, Arizona, the Red Rock country of Sedona, Arizona, and finally Santa Fe, New Mexico, for a couple of memorable evenings at the stunning Santa Fe Opera House.

While planning, I was careful to choose hotels with a strong culinary focus. The Phoenician in Scottsdale, the Enchantment Resort in Sedona and La Posada Hotel in Santa Fe made the itinerary, based on the promise of an exceptional food and wine experience.

The outlier was a stop in Winslow, Arizona, on the return to San Diego. These days, Winslow is a sleepy hamlet, located in the Sonoran Desert, smack in the middle of Arizona's high country, aka the middle of nowhere. My wife insisted we spend a night at the historic La Posada Hotel, which is not related to the hotel by the same name in Santa Fe.

The Winslow La Posada was built in 1929 and became the jewel of the Santa Fe Railroad Harvey House hotels in the heyday of rail travel. Winslow was a thriving hub in northern Arizona back in the day, with its train station and heavy auto traffic on the infamous Route 66.

The big move to air travel and the construction of the interstate highway system eventually took its toll on Winslow, and in 1957 La Posada was closed to the public and converted into offices for the Santa Fe Railroad. By the mid-1990s, the railroad decided to tear down the hotel, until the National Trust for Historic Preservation got wind of the decision and placed La Posada on its endangered list. It found a buyer in Allan Affeldt. He and his wife, Tina Mion, took possession in 1997 and immediately began work on the restoration. In 2000, they brought in renowned chef John Sharpe to operate the hotel restaurant, The Turquoise Room. Sharpe was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2011.

Dinner at the Turquoise Room was the highlight of my journey. I ordered the platter of quail, elk and venison and paired it with an outstanding Rhone-style red blend from the south of France. The bottle of wine from the list set me back all of $38. There were magnums of Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon from excellent producers for less than $100.

As I marveled at the depth of the list and the modest prices, the beverage director, Johnny Jackson, came to the table to deliver the wine. When I mentioned the extraordinary pricing, he said the most remarkable thing: "I try to buy closeouts, then I pass along the savings to our customers."

It's such a crazy idea that it just might work. I know one thing for sure: I will return to this culinary oasis in the middle of the desert.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

J. Lohr 2015 Grenache Rose "Gesture," Paso Robles ($18) — J. Lohr's latest "Gesture" grenache rose is one of the most elegant domestic rose wines I've tasted this year. This salmon-colored beauty offers succulent aromas of strawberry, cherry and watermelon, as well as a mouthwatering acidity. Rating: 90.

Tasting Notes

MacRostie 2014 Chardonnay, Sangiacomo Vineyard, Carneros ($44) — The Sangiacomo chardonnay has long been one of MacRostie's most powerful statement wines, so the stunning 2014 is hardly a surprise. This beauty exhibits inviting notes of lemon oil and baking spice. A fresh acidity lifts the fruit and cleanses the palate. It is among the finest California chardonnays I have sampled this year. Rating: 95.

Schramsberg 2013 Brut Rose, North Coast ($44) — Schramsberg continues to set the benchmarks for California sparkling wine. The 2013 brut rose is a superb example of the elegant Schramsberg style, showing a bit of the drier side of brut. There is a whiff of spice and a hint of brioche. With notes of strawberry, cherry and pear (the cuvee is predominantly pinot noir with a touch of chardonnay) it is inviting, but subtle. Rating: 92.

Kettmeir 2014 Muller Thurgau, Alto Adige (Sudtirol), Italy ($22) — The Sudtirol, an area of northern Italy, belonged to Austria prior to World War I. It has a long history of success with the aromatic whites that are native to Germany and Austria. Kettmeir's Muller Thurgau is a superb example of a white from this alpine climate, showing notes of spice and brioche and hints of pear and citrus. This is a delicious and refreshing summer white that will transition easily to accommodate the robust cuisine of fall and winter. Rating: 91.

Clayhouse 2015 Petite Sirah, Paso Robles ($23) — Clayhouse remains a relatively obscure California treasure, though it is well-known and respected along the Central Coast. This vintage of petite sirah from Clayhouse is a meaty gem that combines the fruit intensity of traditional petite with modern winemaking, which produces supple tannins with a rounded mouthfeel. Bright blue fruits dominate, and there is a beautiful note of spice. Rating: 90.

Frei Brothers 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Alexander Valley ($27) — The Frei Brothers reserve from this vintage delivers a blast of ripe blackberry and black currant fruit accompanied by supple tannins and a wood spice note. This cab is drinking beautifully now, but would benefit from additional cellar time. Rating: 89.

Piccini 2015 Chianti DOCG, Italy ($21) — Piccini's 2015 Chianti is classic, showing tart black cherry fruit, dusty tannins and a mouth-puckering acidity that will soften over time. This Chianti cries out for food. Serve it with hard cheeses, olives and rustic tomato-based sauces. Rating: 88.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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