The upcoming Labor Day weekend is the grillmeister's annual swan song. In most parts of the country, the grill goes undercover and the tools are stored for winter after one last hurrah on this holiday. I am determined to end the season on a bold note rather than a whimper.
Of course, I refer to the wines for the Labor Day finale. I have chosen five of my personal favorites from this summer's many outdoor feasts, one each from five broad categories.
Rose — Chateau d'Esclans 2015 Whispering Angel, France — The Whispering Angel never fails to impress. A dry rose from Provence, this wine is fresh and crisp with succulent red-fruit notes and exceptional length for a rose. The average retail price for this wine on the WineSearcher website is $24.
Sparkling — Bisol Cru Cartizze DOCG, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Italy — This is a truly stunning brut-style prosecco from the region's finest vineyard. Few other proseccos, if any, can stand up to this magnificent expression of the popular northern Italian bubbly. It's expensive for prosecco, but worth every penny. The average retail price on WineSearcher is $42.
White — Rodney Strong 2014 Chardonnay "Chalk Hill," Sonoma County — In my humble opinion, this is the most underrated chardonnay made in California — and the greatest value to boot! It is richly layered and well-balanced, offering notes of lemon oil and pear. This wine is the perfect complement for grilled swordfish, chicken or even savory bratwurst. The average retail price on WineSearcher is $18.
Red — E. Guigal 2013 Crozes-Hermitage, France — While it's overshadowed by more illustrious (and expensive) wines from the northern Rhone, this peppery vintage is packed with gorgeous black fruits and spice and is extremely well-balanced. This is your wine for barbecued ribs, rare steaks and any sort of game you might cook on the grill. On WineSearcher the average retail price is $24.
Dessert — Eberle 2015 Muscat Canelli, Paso Robles — This Eberle won the trophy for best dessert wine at the Central Coast Wine Competition, and it has long been one of my favorites when I'm looking to put a dessert wine on the table that isn't too sweet. With inviting floral notes, hints of spice and just a touch of sweetness, it pairs nicely with fruit-based desserts, simple cakes and Italian cookies. The average price on WineSearcher is $20.
Best Value
Clayhouse 2013 Malbec, Red Cedar Vineyard, Paso Robles ($14) — Domestic malbec often pales when compared to malbec from Argentina. But that's not so with this vintage from Clayhouse, which is an impressive expression of malbec for the price. It shows wonderful complexity, a floral touch on the nose, and notes of anise and fennel on the palate. The layers of red and blue fruits are supple and inviting, and it has a seductive finish. Rating: 90.
Lamole di Lamole 2012 Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy ($19) — Fresh and pure, this is a tremendous example of top-notch Chianti classico for less than $20 a bottle. Beautifully balanced with notes of black cherry and spice, the 2012 delivers ripe flavors without sacrificing its acid backbone. Serve this beauty with grilled meats or savory pasta sauces. Rating: 90.
Dry Creek Vineyard 2015 Fume Blanc, Sonoma County ($14) — Dry Creek's fume shows a different side of sauvignon when compared to the winery's straight-up sauvignon blanc bottling. The style offers a Sonoma variation on the popular sauvignons being made in New Zealand, with a somewhat green, underripe nose and a strong note of mown grass. This pungent style has been a signature for Dry Creek through the years, and it is consistent from vintage to vintage. Rating: 88.
La Crema 2015 Pinot Gris, Monterey County ($20) — La Crema's new pinot gris release is a charming wine with juicy notes of melon and pear, excellent balance and above-average length on the finish. Serve it as a quaffer or with mild grilled fish dishes. Rating: 88.
Liberty School 2014 Merlot, Central Coast ($16) — With a big dollop of plum and dark berry fruit on the front of the palate, as well as a hint of wood smoke, this is a simple, but yummy crowd-pleasing merlot that's a perfect foil for grilled meats or roast lamb. Rating: 87.
Tasting Notes
Patz & Hall 2013 Pinot Noir, Pisoni Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands ($90) — The beauty of the Pisoni vineyard is its unique ability to produce pinot noir that shows power and remarkable depth without losing the edginess that defines the world's finest pinots, whether they come from Burgundy or another part of the world. The 2013 Pisoni from winemaker James Hall is a classic example, exhibiting rich layers of cherry, plum and currant. Notes of vanilla and clove linger in the background. On the palate the wine is full-bodied and rich with a long, sensual finish. You can certainly enjoy it now, but ideally it would be cellared for another two to three years at minimum. Rating: 98.
Louis M. Martini 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($38) — Martini was among the earliest benchmarks for Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, and though these days you will find the majority fetch a much higher price, Martini continues to be a leading producer of Napa's money grape. The 2013 vintage is richly rewarding for the price, showing delicious layers of blackberry and black currant fruit, as well as a modest oak presence that delivers a hint of vanilla and fall spices. For the money it's probably the best Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon you are likely to find. Rating: 93.
Schramsberg 2013 Blanc de Blancs, North Coast ($39) — This latest Blanc de Blancs from Schramsberg shows its youth with firm acidity that will slowly soften with a bit of cellar age. The cuvee is 100 percent chardonnay from vineyards in Napa Valley and Mendocino's Anderson Valley. Notes of crunchy apple and citrus dominate, and there is a hint of spice in the background. Even at $38 it represents exceptional value in domestic sparkling wine. Rating: 90.
Decoy 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County ($25) — This is a solid effort for Duckhorn's second wine. It shows a complex palate of red and black fruits and has enough bite on the back end to suggest it has life beyond this evening's dinner table. It shows a hint of wood spice, too. This is an excellent pairing for a rare steak. Rating: 88.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
View Comments