PASO ROBLES, Calif. — The night before the annual Winemakers' Cookoff last weekend, Gary Eberle opened a bottle of 1980 Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon for his new winemaker, 33-year-old Chris Eberle (no relation), and shared a bit of Paso history.

"This was the very first wine to have the Paso Robles appellation on its label," Gary explained. "Prior to that, the labels on Paso wines all had to say San Luis Obispo County."

Eberle, an early believer in the wine potential of the Paso Robles region, had been instrumental in landing the AVA (American Viticultural Area) designation for Paso, which earned him the reputation as the "Godfather" of Paso Robles wine.

Eberle also was the main driver behind the Winemakers' Cookoff, which raises money for college scholarships for students of Paso Robles High School. The "Cookoff" was inspired by a friendly rivalry with Tobin James, another winemaking icon in the Paso Robles region. James worked at Eberle in the early years.

"Toby and I used to joke about who was the better cook," said Gary Eberle. "We often said we needed to do a cook-off.

"Then when I was president of the Paso Robles Rotary, I thought 'What a great idea for a fundraiser for college scholarships.' The rotary was already funding scholarships, but I believed we could do so much more."

So once a year for the past 17 years, dozens of wineries from the Paso region have put their culinary pride on the line in the cook-off, at the same time pouring generous amounts of wine to a hungry and thirsty public. In recent years the crowds for the Winemakers' Cookoff, drawn from up and down the California coast, have swelled well above 1,000, necessitating a move to the Mid-State Fairgrounds a couple of years ago in search of more elbow room and parking.

This year's winner in the professional judges' category (there's a 'People's Choice' award, too) was hardly a surprise. The trophy went to the Eberle Winery for Gary's "lip-lovin'" baby back ribs and duck sausage.

"I was trying to keep it simple this year," said Eberle. "I didn't want to win the trophy again. I've won it enough (three times overall). I want these wineries to keep coming back. But no, I'm not giving the trophy back."

Best Value

Segura Viudas Gran Cuvee Reserva Cava, Spain ($14) — The Gran Cuvee Reserva is a beautiful expression of Cava from Segura Viudas. Produced from estate vineyards in northeastern Spain, this cuvee is predominantly native grape varieties — macabeo and parellada — with a touch of chardonnay and pinot noir. It shows a floral nose with hints of spice, pear and apple. On the palate it is well balanced, creamy and fresh, with exceptional length and a crisp, clean finish. At this price one of the best values you are likely to find in top-notch sparkling wine. Rating: 91.

Ponzi Vineyards 2014 Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley ($20) — Pinot blanc when handled right can be a refreshing alternative to chardonnay or pinot gris. Ponzi's 2014 is a fleshy version with mouthwatering acidity and a hint of sweetness. On the nose the wine shows aromas of ripe pear, honey and red citrus. On the palate it is racy and complex, with an array of ripe fruits and spices, and it has a long, clean finish. Rating: 89.

Tasting Notes

Patz & Hall 2013 Pinot Noir, Gap's Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast ($70) — Patz & Hall's Gap's Crown Pinot is a bit of a beast, but in a good way. Rich, layered and darkly fruited, it's a powerful example of this vineyard's ability to develop ripeness without losing the suave character that makes pinot noir so appealing. Notes of damp forest and spice provide intriguing accents, and on the palate this pinot delivers personality with persistence. Ripe but firmly structured, with noticeable bite on the finish, it's a world class California pinot from one of America's most successful pinot producers. Rating: 95.

Clos du Val 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($38) — One of the best deals in Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2012 from Clos du Val is a rich, dense Napa Cab with impressive depth and dimension. It shows fleshy black fruits, a suave mouthfeel (the tannins are ripe and supple) and tremendous length. And it comes in at a stunning price for a cabernet sauvignon from a historic Napa Valley producer. Rating: 92.

MacRostie 2013 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($32) — MacRostie's RRV Chardonnay is a style that I'm particularly fond of, so there is that. The notes of lemon creme and spice that are my benchmarks for top-notch California chardonnay are on full display. The wine is superbly balanced as well, with enough acidity to counter the richness. On the palate the wine exhibits impressive weight without being heavy, and the finish is very long. Beautifully done. Rating: 91.

VIE 2012 Syrah, White Hawk Vineyard, Santa Barbara County ($45) — The White Hawk Vineyard Syrah from VIE will be catnip to those wine enthusiasts who like their Syrah rich and ripe. This one is fleshy and muscular, showing dark fruits and spice, with supple tannins. There's enough acidity to keep it from coming across as sweet, but you will want to serve this wine with richer, bolder flavors at the table. Rating: 90.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.