My good friend Jeremy Parzen came to town recently and staged a small tasting of sparkling wines from Franciacorta. Jeremy is the author of the Do Bianchi wine blog, with a specific focus on Italy.

Franciacorta, for those not versed in Italian wine, is a small wine district in Lombardy, near Milan. Italians have a mighty thirst for bubbly, and it is produced throughout the country, but Franciacorta is the only sparkling-wine production zone in Italy with the goods to rival France's Champagne region across a broad spectrum of producers.

Bubblies from Franciacorta generally have more structure, complexity and finesse than sparkling wines made elsewhere in Italy, although a few producers in Trentino come close.

Parzen is a true believer, and would put Franciacorta on par with Champagne.

"The varied soils, the Alpine climate, it's warmer than Champagne so Franciacorta is able to harvest riper grapes," he said. "I think it's more compatible with food than Champagne. I drink Franciacorta with pizza, with pasta, even with a pork chop. But Franciacorta always has to battle the 'C' word."

While I admire Parzen's enthusiasm and intellect on the top, and see the differences as well, I find Franciacorta has more similarities with Champagne than not.

Both produce the bubbles with a second fermentation in the bottle, a process in Italy called "metodo Italiano." Both have strict rules that dictate the grape varieties that must be used. Franciacorta allows three grapes for sparkling wine production: pinot nero (pinot noir), pinot blanc and chardonnay. Of course, chardonnay and pinot noir are the primary grapes used in Champagne.

Finally, the dosage levels for the various styles, such as brut or extra dry, are identical.

From my own personal point of view, I would put Ca' del Bosco and Bellavista on the same plane as top-notch Champagne. Bellavista was presented at the Franciacorta tasting; Ca' del Bosco wasn't. Other Franciacorta bubblies that impressed me at the tasting were from the producers Monte Rossa and Ricci Curbastro.

While I am not quite ready to join Parzen and anoint all of Franciacorta as the equal of Champagne, I can tell you the quality is second only to Champagne and the cost is far less.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Clayhouse 2012 Adobe Red, Paso Robles ($14) — I used to think of Adobe Red as an entry-level wine for Clayhouse. Always good, always easy, always modestly priced. That description doesn't do the 2012 vintage justice. This is the finest Adobe Red in memory, a juicy, spicy red blend of petite sirah, zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, tempranillo and malbec. With excellent balance and supple tannins, this is a serious wine that can be enjoyed now, with haut cuisine or grilled meats from the barbecue. It's delicious, fun, fresh and intriguing, and still a good value. Rating: 92.

Fetzer 2013 Gewurztraminer 'Shaly Loam,' Monterey County ($10) — Fetzer has made a career out of producing stunning wines for the price and its 2013 Shaly Loam Gewurz is just another great example of Fetzer's knack for combining volume, quality and price into a winning combination. This slightly off-dry Gewurztraminer from Monterey County is a gem, showing tropical fruits such as mango, orange and tangerine, with a note of spice and bright acidity. Is it a wine for the ages? Not likely. But it is extraordinarily delicious and drinkable now. Rating: 90.

Dry Creek Vineyard 2014 Fume Blanc, Sonoma County ($14) — There's almost nothing more consistent in California wine than a Dry Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc. This vintage of DCV Fume Blanc, aka sauvignon blanc, is no exception. It's simple and straightforward, showing mouthwatering grapefruit and a spice note, with excellent balance. It finishes clean and fresh, inviting another sip. Most anyone would be happy to oblige. Rating: 89.

Tasting Notes

Patz & Hall 2012 Pinot Noir, Pisoni Vineyard ($90) — Patz & Hall's Pisoni Vineyard Pinot from the excellent 2012 vintage is the perfect marriage of brilliant winemaker and brilliant grape grower. Winemaker James Hall is on his way to legendary status in California wine, and grape grower Gary Pisoni's namesake vineyard is an American treasure, one of the finest pinot noir vineyards in the New World and certainly a worthy rival for the grand cru vineyards of Burgundy's Cote de Nuits. This blockbuster is rich and powerful yet in perfect balance. Aromas of blackberry, black raspberry and blueberry dominate, with a subtle earth note in the background and enough bright acidity to balance the sweetness of the fruit. On the palate it is mouth-coating and persistent, with a finish that lingers and expands beyond the imagination. This is a magical wine from two of the California wine industry's most talented contributors. Rating: 98.

Renwood 2012 Zinfandel, Fiddletown ($25) — Once upon a time, Fiddletown was the epicenter of California zinfandel. Other districts now have something to say about that and have far more production with which to spread their fame. But zins from Fiddletown are still among the finest there are, and the 2012 from Renwood is an exemplary expression of Fiddletown zin, showing aromas of ripe blackberry and blueberry, oak vanillin, a touch of anise and a hint of baking spice. Well balanced and modestly priced. Rating: 92.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.