Gallo on the Move

By Robert Whitley

July 28, 2015 6 min read

The breaking news in the U.S. wine industry last week was the announcement that E. & J. Gallo of Modesto, California, had purchased Sonoma-based brand Souverain and the Asti vineyards from Treasury Wine Estates.

It was Gallo's second eye-popping purchase in the past couple of months. Gallo bought J Vineyards & Winery, best known for its superb sparkling wines and a delicious Pinot gris, earlier in the year. And recently Gallo has added import clients such as Italy's Allegrini, an important winery in northern Italy's Veneto region.

This is the same Gallo that popularized jug wines in the United States post-Prohibition. Gallo has worked mightily to shed the jug-wine image, although it should be noted that in its day, when jug wines were thought by some to be California's only contribution to the wine discussion, Gallo's jug wines were the best around.

In recent years, Gallo has added such premium brands as MacMurray Ranch (Russian River Valley), Louis M. Martini (Napa Valley) and William Hill Winery (Napa Valley). The addition of J Vineyards and Souverain strengthens that hand.

And the hundreds of acres of vineyards that came in the Souverain deal will likely strengthen Gallo's more modestly priced offerings. What must be remembered is how Gallo won the jug-wine wars.

While most wine companies that produced jug wines sourced grapes from California's Central Valley and other lesser grape-growing regions, Gallo always had vineyards in Sonoma County that were used to boost the quality of its wines made from mostly Central Valley fruit.

I liken it to the Burgundy model. The finest Burgundy producers often reserve a small amount of their grand cru wine to blend with their premier cru wine, thus lifting the premier cru offerings. Then some of the premier cru wine would be reserved for the village wines, thus lifting the village wines.

Of one thing I am certain: the most recent acquisition will serve Gallo wines well, now and in the future.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Wakefield Estate 2014 Shiraz, Clare Valley, Australia ($17) — Wakefield continues to offer tremendous bang for the buck, as this Shiraz from the Clare Valley demonstrates. Rich and layered, it exhibits gorgeous aromas of ripe black fruits, with hints of anise and spice, beautifully integrated tannins and a long, floral finish. A gem at the price. Rating: 90.

Tasting Notes

Patz & Hall 2013 Chardonnay, Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley ($44) — The Dutton Ranch in Sonoma's Russian River Valley is easily one of the most renowned vineyards in America, let alone California, for the chardonnay grape. The 2013 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay from winemaker James Hall does that idea justice with this exquisitely balanced chardonnay that strikes that delicate and difficult balance between power and finesse. There is plenty of acidity to provide tension, and the fruit is fairly remarkable, showing a bit of lemon oil and pear, with a thread of minerality. One of the finest California chardonnays I have tasted from this very good vintage. Rating: 96.

Wakefield Estate 2014 Riesling, St. Andrews Vineyard, Clare Valley, Australia ($40) — You could argue whether Australia's finest rieslings come from the Clare Valley or the western part of the country, from Margaret River to the Great Southern. No matter your preference, you wouldn't be wrong, but for my money the Clare takes the prize, and Wakefield is one of the best in the business in the Clare. So this beautiful St. Andrews Vineyard riesling from Wakefield was hardly a surprise. It shows the telltale signs of fresh lime and zesty lemon that mark it as Clare, and with a subdued minerality that experience tells me will become more expressive with time, providing additional complexity that will set this riesling apart from lesser wines. Rating: 94.

Clos du Val 2013 Pinot Noir, Carneros ($32) — Clos du Val's Pinot from the 2013 vintage has a decidedly European personality. It is lean and restrained, shows delicate red-fruit aromas, and a touch of earthy forest floor with a hint of truffle. Well balanced and refined, this Pinot is a good match for simple roast chicken or pork dishes. Rating: 89.

The Winery SF 2013 "Glitter," California ($20) — The Winery San Francisco is nothing if not daring. Its "Glitter" bubbly is a fruit-driven sparkler made using the Charmat method, which means it's all done in a big stainless-steel tank. No oak barrels, no second fermentation in bottle, no problem. The result is a refreshing bubbly that will give Prosecco a run for the money. The fruit is its most appealing feature, with notes of pear, green apple and lemon zest. The dosage is modest, delivering a sparkler that can be labeled "sec" or dry. Rating: 88.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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