Summer Whites

By Robert Whitley

May 30, 2017 6 min read

It's summertime, and the sippin's easy. For most wine lovers that means breaking away from heavier wines that have a strong influence of oak and turning to wines with a bit more fruit zest and crisp acidity.

There's a simple reason for this seasonal shift in taste: It's refreshing. When the weather heats up, demand for white wine, refreshing white wine in particular, rises as well.

On a recent getaway into the heat of Palm Desert, California, I loaded the back of the SUV with a variety of white wines that all had one thing in common: bright fruit and mouthwatering (refreshing) acidity.

There were the usual suspects: Handley Cellars pinot gris, Zocker gruner veltliner, Dry Creek Vineyards sauvignon blanc. But to the mix I added a grenache blanc from Ranchero Cellars in Paso Robles, California, and another from Tangent in the Edna Valley of California. For some foreign intrigue, I tossed in a bottle of Martin Codax Albarino from Spain's Rias Baixas, a bottle of Pieropan Soave from Italy's Veneto region and a Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc from New Zealand.

The point of the exercise was to try as many different refreshing whites on a small gathering of friends and family as possible to see what the thirsty party crowd liked best. As near as I could see, there was an eight-way tie for the favorite. Every bottle was drained, proving my point: If you adhere to the fresh crisp style in warm weather, it pretty much all works.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Souverain 2014 Chardonnay, California ($13) — Winemaker Ed Killian is one of the best in the biz. He's been making exceptional value wines at Souverain for a couple of decades now and doesn't appear to be slowing down. His 2014 chardonnay delivers notes of spiced pear with a hint of lemon oil. The palate is smooth and balanced with a buttery note that will surely please the crowd. Rating: 88.

Tasting Notes

Dutton-Goldfield 2014 Pinot Noir 'Deviate,' Sonoma Coast ($72) — Deviate is a departure for Dutton-Goldfield, which generally specializes in single-vineyard wines. This is the second vintage for Deviate, which combines the grapes from two distinctive Sonoma County pinot noir vineyards: Jentoft and Ellenbach. The result is a dark, dense pinot that seems more in the Merry Edwards style than the typical Dan-Goldfield style. It's big and bold with dusty tannins, layers of black and blue fruits, a leafy nuance, beautiful structure and balance, and a remarkably long finish. Rating: 96.

Duckhorn Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($72) — The 2013 vintage was superb throughout the Napa Valley, particularly for cabernet sauvignon. The bounty was not lost on Duckhorn, which scored big with everything it touched in 2013. The Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon from Duckhorn is just another in the long line of home runs. Showing intense aromas of cassis and blackberry, this massive cab possesses remarkable depth and complexity, with notes of cedar, wood spice, oak vanillin and excellent balance considering its heft. Rating: 95.

Paraduxx 2013 'Candlestick' Red Wine, Napa Valley ($55) — The Candlestick brings a little heat, but everything else about this syrah-grenache blend is sensational. The nose exhibits aromas of spice and anise, layers of blackberry and blueberry on the palate, notes of cedar and wood spice, fine tannins and a lingering finish, though that's where you are likely to detect the heat. Rating: 95.

Migration 2014 Pinot Noir, Running Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($68) — This wine is showing well in its youth but will likely be even better in a couple more years. With a floral nose and bright red-fruit aromas, it is inviting and charming from the first whiff through the last sip. Well-balanced with integrated tannins, it shows a hint of wood spice on the finish. If you have the patience to cellar it and wait, do it. Rating: 93.

Flora Springs 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($40) — This if Flora Springs' basic Napa Valley cabernet, and it's one of the best cab values in the valley. Showing notes of blackberry and cassis, good palate weight, and a touch of violets and oak vanillin, it's a straightforward style that has endured through several generations. Well-balanced with supple tannins, it is ready to drink now but also a sure bet to evolve nicely for those who choose to cellar it. Rating: 91.

Canvasback 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain ($40) — The 2014 Canvasback Cab illustrates the potential of cabernet sauvignon from the Red Mountain American Viticultural Area. It delivers dense red-fruited flavors and aromas; a hint of cedar and graphite on the nose; plump, juicy fruit on the palate and a cleansing acidity that will serve it well at the dinner table. The wine is well-balanced with supple tannins and a lingering finish. Rating: 90.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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