The grilling season is upon us, exciting the imagination with visions of a smoking hot barbecue covered with fresh salmon, savory bratwurst, thick steaks and foil-covered corn on the cob. So it must be time for the annual "Wine Talk" Grilling Rules.
Rule Number 1: The grillmeister, usually moi, must have the proper tools for the task. These include a pair of tongs in one hand and a wine glass in the other.
Rule Number 2: The grillmeister must keep cool at all times. To achieve this goal, the grillmeister must fill a wine glass with a cold adult beverage made from grapes. My preference is a crisp, dry rose. My current favorites are the Gerard Bertrand 2015 Cote des Roses ($16) from the Languedoc region in the south of France, and the 2015 Domaines Ott "By.Ott" ($23) from the Cotes de Provence, due east of the Languedoc.
Rule Number 3: When dishing up the barbecued foods, the grillmeister must accompany the grub with wines that focus on freshness rather than heft (that's a personal preference), understanding that freshness will be more satisfying on a warm summer day. My wine cupboard is stocked with dry gewurztraminer, chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, gruner veltliner, albarino, Beaujolais, pinot noir and red and white Cotes du Rhone for such occasions.
Rule Number 4: Beware the heat of the day. Conventional wisdom holds that red wines shouldn't be chilled. Nonsense. Warm weather dulls a red wine's flavors and brings out the tannic bite. Always save room in the cooler for your reds, or simply lay them on top of the ice to give them a slight chill.
These rules are easy to follow and are guaranteed to enhance the grilling experience for both grillmeister and guests.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Biokult 2015 Rose Secco, Neusiedlersee, Austria ($17) — Biokult's Rose Secco is a frizzante dry rose made from organically grown pinot noir grapes. Fresh and delightfully crisp, the fizz brings the lovely cherry and strawberry fruit forward to dance on the palate. Well-balanced and low in alcohol (11 percent by volume), this is the perfect summer wine. Rating: 90.
Dry Creek Vineyard 2015 Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg ($13) — Chenin blanc is a grape that soars in the Loire Valley of France, but largely fails to inspire here in the U.S. The best chenin is grown in California, in the Clarksburg area northeast of Napa. Few vintners give chenin — a fruity wine that is versatile enough to be made dry, off-dry and sweet — it's due, but Dry Creek Vineyards is an exception. Founder Dave Stare always loved the grape, and Dry Creek has always made a dry chenin blanc. The 2015 is typical. It shows a note of fresh orange peel on the nose. Pear and citrus notes come through on the palate. It is well-balanced and refreshing and utterly delicious. Rating: 89.
Kendall-Jackson 2013 Merlot, Sonoma County ($19) — At this price, the K-J 2013 is one of the best values of California merlot. With a good bit of heft and richness, this is a solid wine that can stand up to roasted and barbecued meats. It shows aromas of currant and plum with a back-note of woodspice. It has a long, satisfying finish. Rating: 88.
Nielson 2014 Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County ($19) — Nielson is another in the growing field of pinot producers who are crafting a respectable tasty, yet affordable pinot noir. Nielson's 2014 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir is the second label for the well-respected Byron winery. It delivers solid pinot aromas of cherry and strawberry, and an earthy essence on the finish. This vintage shows some grip on the finish, which should mellow in another year or so. Rating: 88.
Biokult 2015 Zweigelt Rose, Niederosterreich, Austria ($14) — This tangy rose from Austria is made from Austria's most important red grape variety, zweigelt, which is biodynamically farmed. A complex array of aromas — persimmon, cherry, strawberry and cranberry — makes for a most unusual, but delightful dry rose experience. The wine is crisp and refreshing on the palate, made for summer sipping. Rating: 87.
Tasting Notes
Black Kite 2014 Chardonnay, Soberanes Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands ($48) — Black Kite's 2014 chardonnay from the Soberanes Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands illustrates the spectacular potential of chardonnay in this district. The 2014 is complex, showing layered aromas of lemon oil and pear and notes of oak spice. This is a brilliant chardonnay that is rich and balanced, delivering power and elegance at the same time. Rating: 95.
Black Kite 2014 Chardonnay, Gap's Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast ($48) — Winemaker Jeff Gaffner is on fire. Here he strikes again with an exceptional chardonnay from the Gap's Crown vineyard in the Sonoma Coast district. This vintage shows an intense note of lemon custard with hints of sweet baking spices. It is richly layered and complex, yet has mouth-watering acidity that speaks to the wine's excellent backbone and balance. Rating: 94.
Byron 2013 Pinot Noir, Sierra Madre Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley ($45) — This dark-fruited, earthy pinot from the renowned Sierra Madre Vineyard exhibits richness and flavor without having to flex its muscles. On the palate, the wine is layered with aromas of strawberry and cola and firm tannins. The finish is seductive and lingering, showing a hint of fall spice. Rating: 90.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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