Dry Rose Favorites in Time for Spring

By Robert Whitley

March 3, 2020 6 min read

The American wine consumer, once reluctant to drink pink wine, long ago abandoned the silly myth that pink equals sweet. Dry rose wines are now widely embraced for the freshness and zing that made them popular in southern Europe for decades.

Trust me on this: If you love wine, there is almost nothing more refreshing on a warm spring or summer day than a beautifully structured dry rose. By that, I mean a rose wine that is cultivated to deliver bright acidity and fermented dry. The crisp finish is the key element I look for when I buy rose.

Of course, I have a few personal favorites that never seem to disappoint regardless of vintage. As a first option, I typically look to the south of France, where they take their dry rose wines very seriously. I'm quite fond of the Chateau d'Esclans Whispering Angel, Cotes de Provence (average $22 per bottle per the Wine-Searcher website), for its subtle strawberry and citrus aromas and fresh acidity.

Fleur de Mer Rose, Cotes de Provence ($20) provides a similar experience, as does the Gerard Bertrand Cote des Roses, Languedoc ($14). All three of these roses from the south of France are remarkably consistent and widely distributed, so they're pretty easy to find.

On the domestic front, Etude rose ($19) has been most impressive over the past several vintages while sourcing grapes from California's Central Coast. Eberle is another superb example produced from Central Coast grapes. The Eberle rose ($20) is primarily made from Paso Robles syrah and has lightened up in color and firmed up in structure in recent years, changes initiated by winemaker Chris Eberle just a couple of years ago. Sonoma County's Rodney Strong is also hitting home runs these days with its dry rose ($19) made from Russian River Valley pinot noir.

These six are my go-to dry rose wines as we head toward warmer weather around the corner. Time to stock up!

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Enrico Serafino 2018 Grifo del Quartaro Gavi di Gavi DOCG, Italy ($17) — Get it while you can because this is one of the best values in an Italian white wine that I've ever encountered. This Gavi (100% Cortese) exhibits brilliant notes of citrus with a textured mouthfeel that is unique for this grape variety. Clean, crisp and refreshing with impressive length on the palate, it's a remarkable wine for the price. Rating: 94.

Tasting Notes

Paraduxx 2016 Atlas Peak Red Wine, Napa Valley ($82) — This blend of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon comes from viticulture royalty. The sangiovese is sourced from the acclaimed Antinori vineyard and the cabernet from the iconic Stagecoach Vineyard. Both of these exceptional Atlas Peak vineyards possess a long and storied history. One of the claims to fame both share is extraordinary structure, a result of the cool Atlas Peak microclimate. This vintage exhibits remarkable fruit purity, showing notes of cherry, blackberry and cassis nicely framed with a touch of wood spice and a subtle hint of graphite. Rating: 98.

Luca Bosio 2015 Barolo DOCG, Italy ($44.99) — This is that rare young Barolo (indeed, at five years, most Barolo is still considered young) that is fleshy and juicy despite ample tannin and firm acidity. It can be enjoyed now, but another five to seven years in the cellar would likely be rewarded with delicious evolution. This vintage shows notes of black cherry and leather, with a most subtle touch of wood spice. Rating: 93.

Le Colture 2018 Rive di Santo Stefano Gerardo Brut Prosecco, Valdobbiadene Superiore, Italy ($22) — I am an unabashed fan of brut Prosecco from the Valdobbiadene district, to my mind the source of the most sophisticated and consistently elegant Prosecco wines. This vintage from Gerardo is creamy on the palate despite a strong note of typically tart green apple. Complex notes of apple, pear and peach deliver aromatically, and the long finish ends with a hint of brioche. Rating: 92.

Gamble 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60) — These longtime grape growers always hold back enough fruit to produce wine under their own flag, although production is small. A mere 1,700 cases of this cabernet were made, and it should go fast at this price, which is modest for Napa Valley cabernet from prime vineyards. The 2016 Gamble cabernet is richly layered with black fruits, primarily blackberry and cassis. On the palate, the wine is smooth and supple with impressive length. Rating: 91.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. Email Robert at [email protected].

Photo credit: kaboompics at Pixabay

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