Going forward in 2014, I have a plan that I am confident will enhance my enjoyment of wine. Call them New Year's wine resolutions, if you will.
No. 1: decant, decant, decant. I talk the talk but don't always walk the walk. Most wines, especially young wines, simply taste better when they have been decanted. That goes for both reds and whites. I decant often, but not as often as I should. A little splash of air does wonders for wine, bringing out the full array of aromas that are otherwise packed tight and tamped down. Bold red wines will benefit most and should be given a good hour or so of aeration prior to serving. But even a last-minute decanting is better than none.
No. 2: keep an open mind. It is so easy to draw a line in the sand and write off wines that don't conform to personal stylistic preferences. I generally don't enjoy fat, ripe Chardonnays, but give me one of the beauties from Monterey County's Sleepy Hollow Vineyard and I'm loving it. And while I prefer elegant, balanced pinot noir from the likes of Calera or Dutton Goldfield, a big, juicy pinot from ROAR sometimes hits the spot.
No. 3: explore, explore, explore. If I were stranded on a Pacific atoll and could have only one wine to drink for the rest of my life, I would probably ask for something made by the genius Italian winemaker Angelo Gaja. But I'm not. Exploration and discovery are the essence of wine appreciation, and this year I am intrigued by the red table wines of Portugal, which is one reason I accepted an invitation to be a judge at The Wines of Portugal Challenge in Lisbon in May. My experience with Portugese wines other than sweet Port wine is limited, but what I've had has been very good and attractively priced.
No. 4: don't forget the fizz. Having just consumed a fair amount of sparkling wine over the holidays, I realize (yet again) that I don't serve bubblies as often as I should. We think of sparkling wine as too expensive for every day, and it's true I wouldn't want to open a $75 bottle of Champagne before dinner every night. But very good Prosecco and cava can be had for a song and they make the same joyful sound as a Champagne when the cork pops out.
No. 5: remember bigger is better. That's right, when it comes to wine-bottle size, bigger is definitely better. I went on a magnum-buying binge this holiday season and loved every minute, especially the Champagnes served from magnum. Besides the visual impact of the bigger bottle, red wines age more slowly and retain their freshness longer when bottled in a large-format container, as opposed to the standard 750ml wine bottle. The ratio of volume to air in a large bottle is greater and thus slows down the ageing process, which is achieved through gradual oxidation.
Tasting Notes
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Zinfandel, Old Vine, Dry Creek Valley ($30) — A remarkable wine, considering the difficulty of the vintage. Perhaps that's what appeals. It is more austere and less jammy and sweet than your average Sonoma County zinfandel, and those are the zins I find most attractive, especially for serving with barbecued steaks, ribs and brats. Even at a lower volume, however, there is still plenty of black-fruited brambly fruit aroma to savor. Rating: 91.
Patz & Hall 2012 Pinot noir, Sonoma Coast ($46) — This vintage of Patz & Hall's Sonoma Coast pinot offers a complex array of red- and black-fruit aromas, particularly strong notes of blackberry and black cherry. The wine is well balanced, beautifully structured and complex, with secondary aromas of forest floor and cedar that are subtle and flattering to the wine. You could age this one for five to seven years, but it is accessible and charming now. Beautifully made. Rating: 91.
Vie 2011 Roussanne, Lake County ($29) — I'm not sure how many wine enthusiasts are big enough fans of Roussanne, a delightful wine historically produced in France's Rhone Valley, to pony up $29 for a Roussanne from California's Lake County (due north of the Napa Valley) but those so inclined will be rewarded with a real treat. Vie's 2011 Roussanne is round and lush on the palate, shows delicious aromas of honeysuckle, peach and apricot, and finishes clean and dry. Rating: 91.
Calera 2011 Aligote, Mt. Harlan ($21) — Perhaps someone else in America makes an Aligote, which is the "other" white wine of Burgundy, but Calera's is the first I've encountered. It's a lovely, albeit simple, white that is appealing for its minerality and wet stone nuance more than its rich, ripe fruit, of which there is very little. The fruit influence, such as it is, runs to very subtle citrus and stone fruit. For casual sipping or with savory tapas, it's a winner. Rating: 91.
Vie 'Melange Maison I' Old Vines, California ($29) — Despite its non-vintage status, this is a serious red Rhone-style blend that exhibits excellent density and weight on the palate without going over the top. The blend of syrah, grenache and mourvedre is firmly structured and requires time in the glass (or decanter) to open up and show its complex, layered fruit. Initially dark and brooding, as it gains exposure to air the fruit begins to shine. Use of oak is well measured, adding an element of spice and smoke that enhances the savory character of this wine. Rating: 90.
William Hill 2010 Merlot, Napa Valley ($30) — This is a very good merlot effort from William Hill that might lack a bit of density and depth, but not flavor. It shows ripe plum and black cherry fruit, with a hint of bell pepper that will remind many wine lovers of young Bordeaux. Rating: 88.
Calera 2012 Pinot noir, Central Coast ($26) — This easy drinking California pinot is especially satisfying for the price. It exhibits plenty of earthy pinot character, with aromas of black cherry and strawberry, and a bit of bite on the backend that will be welcome when matched with roast chicken, grilled meat or savory cheeses. Rating: 87.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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