By Sharon Whitley Larsen
"Be sure to take plenty of reading material!"
That was the advice I received from several helpful Aussies when I told them my husband, Carl, and I had booked the Indian Pacific excursion train from Perth (on the Indian Ocean) to Sydney (on the Pacific — hence the train's name). It's a three-night and four-day transcontinental odyssey across 2,700 miles — ''through some of the remotest inland areas — some of the most diverse and inaccessible landscapes in the world," pointed out the train guidebook. The 65-hour excursion would take us on the world's longest stretch of straight-as-an-arrow railway track — nearly 300 miles — over the Nullarbor (Latin for "no trees") Plain.
When we arrived at 8 a.m. at the Perth Railway Station, I had plenty of reading material packed in my carry-on. We checked in at the outdoor kiosk, where our large luggage was tagged and piled with others on a trolley to be stored in a separate baggage car during the journey.
As a small band played, passengers sat munching on goodies and sipping coffee; then once boarding was announced at 9, we all excitedly jumped up, heading to our gleaming stainless-steel car.
Train-nut Carl and I had booked Gold Class (there's also the more superior and expensive Platinum) for about $2,000 each and soon found our charming air-conditioned compartment, which, to my happy surprise, included a toilet and shower as well as nice toiletries.
At first we thought the price was a bit steep until we realized that it included all drinks (including fabulous local wines and beer) and cooked on-board gourmet meals — as well as off-train journeys through remote Outback towns.
Our attendant, Olivia, graciously welcomed us and pointed out some perks of our cozy compartment, including an attendant call-button, in-room safe and various music channels: classical, jazz and blues as well as journey commentary.
"There's no WiFi," Olivia explained. "Even if we had it there's no connectivity" along a line with few inhabitants.
Yes, we're certainly going to be in the Outback, I thought. But that's OK. We brought books!
Olivia gave us tickets for our off-train bus excursions and explained that the best time to spot wildlife was when they were most active: early in the day or prior to sunset. (Alas, only Carl saw three kangaroos one morning at breakfast.) Olivia pointed out the kitchenette at the end of the car where we could help ourselves to coffee or munchies and took our lunch reservation: 12:30 in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant Car (7 p.m. for dinner). She explained that when we were at dinner she would convert our lounge seat into bunks and showed us how to adjust the blind on our large picture window. If I needed a hair dryer, I'd have to borrow (and return) one from the lounge car.
Once the train departed, I hung the "Do Not Disturb" sign on the door and settled in by the window to read the "Welcome on Board" book left on the small table with bottled water for us.
"You're about to embark on one of the world's greatest rail adventures — an epic transcontinental journey stretching from the Indian Ocean to the Pacific shores," I read.
Operated by Great Southern Rail, the Indian Pacific was inaugurated in 1970. There would be more than 200 passengers on our train of 30 cars stretching out as far as we could see. Our first terra-firma stop would be that evening at 9:30 until nearly midnight in the late-19th-century gold-rush town of Kalgoorlie (today home to the Super Pit mine, the historic "'Wild West' town of pioneers, fortune-hunters and colorful characters," touted the train brochure). I was looking forward to our stop at the "ghost town" of Cook with a population of only two. The couple who lives there are employed by the train company; until recently it had a population of four. We would also stop in Adelaide and Broken Hill (the country's longest-lived mining city, visiting the Miners Memorial, a monument recognizing over 800 miners who lost their lives in area mines) before arriving in Sydney.
An hour before our designated lunchtime Carl and I swayed through a few bouncing train cars to the Outback Explorer Lounge for a drink and to meet fellow passengers, who sat on comfy chairs and sofas by picture windows — a bar and bartender at the end of the car. At the other end were shelves of books and board games, but I never saw anyone take any: They were too busy chatting and meeting new friends.
We met a few Brits — and numerous Australians, who had taken the Indian Pacific several times. A trio of London-area university classmates — retired teachers, now living in Italy, England and Australia — had hooked up here for a 42-year reunion.
At 12:30 our names were called and we followed the attendant to the next car, the classy Queen Adelaide Restaurant Car, which was filled with tables seating four. We were in for a treat with gourmet meals of regional fare prepared by onboard chefs. Dishes included veal tenderloin; Fremantle jewfish (which I selected: "Hard to find —predominately in Australia's southwest — but great to eat," described the menu); a carrot, mushroom and hazelnut tart; lamb loin; chicken breast fillet; and roasted vegetables and quinoa. Dessert choices were Strawberry Gum Panna Cotta or a plate of fabulous regional cheeses (which I selected every time): Tarago River Blue Cheese, Woodside Saltbush Chevre and Maffra Aged Cheddar were served with Willabrand glazed figs, strawberries, almonds and lavosh. Another yummy cheese plate included La Vera Adel Blue Cheese, Alexandrina Mount Jagged Mature Cheddar and Margaret River Dairy Co. Brie.
Our table mates that first day at lunch were Lindsey and David Goff, originally from England, who had moved Down Under in 1988 and currently reside in Catherine Hill Bay, north of Sydney. They were aboard for two nights and would be getting off in Adelaide. This was also their first time on the Indian Pacific.
"It was one of the high spots of our holiday," Lindsey later told me. "To be able to sit in the comfort of the train and experience the vastness of the Nullarbor Desert as we passed through it was amazing. The stops that were made — first at Kalgoorlie, with a trip to the gold mine, and then at Cook, with its population of two — were both interesting and different.
"We found the staff on board to be very helpful and loved the fact that for every meal we were seated with a different couple. It made the journey much more interesting being able to meet new people and to hear their stories. We loved the food, too, and the chef's clever use of local produce to create a unique menu."
And that was one of the highlights for me — besides being rocked to sleep each evening in the comfy bunk bed and gazing out the window to observe the barren landscape during the day: the fabulous food. Three-course dinner highlights included first courses of Outback Tasting Plate (which I had, sampling smoked emu, kangaroo salami and cured Wagyu),Yabby and Crab Bisque, Yellow-Eyed Mullet, and Woodside Chevre Souffle. Main courses included barramundi (my favorite), Tenderidge beef fillet, mushroom risotto and rack of lamb. Some desserts offered were Sticky Date Pudding, Deconstructed Desert Lime Lamington and Dark Chocolate Mousse. Not to mention the fabulous Australian wines!
After a full tummy from that first amazing two-course lunch, I found myself heading back to our compartment to nap until it was time for pre-dinner drinks. And by the way, I never did read any of the books I packed!
WHEN YOU GO
For information on the Indian Pacific and other Great Southern Rail adventures, including the Ghan (which is next on our list!) visit www.greatsouthernrail.com.
From the United States you can contact: Swain Destinations at 866-429-9722 or www.swaindestinations.com.
About Australia: 888-359-2877 or www.aboutaustralia.com
Sharon Whitley Larsen is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com
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