By Divina Infusino
How people will gather in person in the foreseeable future is unpredictable. But let's assume they won't be eager to rub shoulders with large numbers of strangers anytime very soon.
So how will visitors approach places like North Beach, that swath of idiosyncratic, locally owned restaurants, coffeehouses, shops, bars, clubs and historic sites that cuts diagonally through the northeast corner of San Francisco?
North Beach is a storied neighborhood where the Beat Generation roamed in the 1950s and Italian-American culture took root in the city. With its landmarks — Coit Tower, Sts. Peter and Paul Church, and Washington Square Park — North Beach ranks as a must-see San Francisco destination. With its narrow sidewalks, indoor-outdoor cafes and sunny climate converging into a bustling European atmosphere, it appeals to locals, as well.
North Beach gets crowded, making it a less-than-ideal candidate for social-distancing tourism. One solution? Explore the area's newer, less-venerable places.
Then when breathing the same air as others no longer presents a serious threat, visit North Beach hotspots — Beat-era hangouts City Lights bookstore, Vesuvio and Caffe Trieste. Stop at Victoria Pastry for cannoli, Molinari's Delicatessen for house-made salami sandwiches, at revamped Tosca Cafe, neo-Italian Cotogna restaurant, Cafe Jacqueline for souffles, The Saloon for free live music, Biordi for Italian pottery and the packed bars around Columbus Avenue, North Beach's main thoroughfare.
But in the era of social distancing, seek out the lesser-known gems where you can experience North Beach's spirit and feel safe doing so.
Of the North Beach restaurants and delis with unusual take out, the Italian Homemade Company tops the list with its piadina and cassone — yeast-free flatbread turnovers and sandwiches that owner Mirco Tomassini creates in the tradition of Rimini, his hometown in northern Italy. The piadina combines arugula, Italian cheeses and Prosciutto di Parma, speck or porchetta between folded flatbread. The cassone, stuffed with sausage, meatballs or vegetables, is sealed shut and served warm. The patrons who typically spill outside the door are, these days, lining up 6 feet apart.
Tony Gemignani, winner of prestigious pizza awards in Italy and author of "The Pizza Bible," found a way to offset the long waits for a table at his signature restaurant, Tony's Pizza Napoletana. He opened the Italian Slice House next door, which sells pizza slices and whole pies for takeout only. His newer Giovanni's Italian Specialties extends the menu with homemade focaccia squares.
Palermo II Delicatessen prepares to-go classics such as homemade Chicken Parmigiana sandwiches and Arancini (Rice Balls), a Sicilian specialty. Check out butcher shop Little City Meats next door. Owned by the same family for three generations, it exemplifies the North Beach of old.
Little Vine represents North Beach's new wave, selling gourmet packaged goods and wines. Its hearty sandwiches change daily and are made with ingredients sourced from local purveyors.
Hole in the Wall Coffee is literally carved out of a hole in a building wall and serves only takeaway pour-overs. Beacon, a modern, minimalist space, brings in locals looking for trendy concoctions and visitors interested in local roastery coffee drinks to go. One of North Beach's older coffeehouses, Caffe Greco (cash only) has a large indoor and outdoor seating area that could accommodate social distancing, especially on weekdays.
North Beach's small, only-in-San Francisco shops may require a wait outside for social-distance shopping. Visit on weekdays, when customers are fewer. Or just window-shop for a glimpse into North Beach's soul.
The city's psychedelic '60s and '70s heyday lives on at SF Rock Posters & Collectibles, with its large vintage poster collection and a Jefferson Airplane poster that costs $400. Just enter and gander at the nostalgic inventory. Situated on a North Beach side street, it is rarely crowded.
Libreria Pino specializes in books by Italian authors, sold in Italian and English. Think Elena Ferrante, the Italian author of "My Brilliant Friend," now an HBO series. Given its focus and locale two blocks off Columbus Avenue, social distancing should not be a problem here.
If San Francisco noir author Dashiell Hammett's detective, Sam Spade, were alive he'd shop at Al's Attire, which re-envisions vintage designs. Specializing in bespoke clothing and custom shoes, the boutique is perfect for social-distance shopping. Waltz past its windows for the imaginative display of men's and women's apparel.
Chock-full of old maps, vintage prints and books, Schein & Schein feels more like a museum than a shop. Browsing here is a refined and often sparsely populated experience.
With the Embarcadero, Fisherman's Wharf, Russian and Telegraph Hill nearby, breathtaking views are plentiful not far from Columbus Avenue. Then there's the San Francisco Art Institute, located in a castlelike fortress partially up a steep hill and offering sweeping vistas from its cafeteria terrace. Founded in 1871, SFAI houses a multistory Diego Rivera mural masterpiece that is open and free to the public. However, the shelter-in-place order has closed SFAI and its future is uncertain.
In case it shutters, climb the rest of the hill to the corner of Chestnut Street and Leavenworth for views of the Bay. Arrive around dusk, as the fading sun casts pink hues onto the water, rendering a luminescent panorama that would inspire Monet.
WHEN YOU GO
For more information: www.sftravel.com/explore/neighborhoods/north-beach
Divina Infusino is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
Hole in the Wall Coffee in San Francisco's North Beach neighborhood serves takeaway pour-overs to its thirsty customers. Photo courtesy of Divina Infusino.
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