By Sandra Scott
What a shame that Lisbon is often overlooked by people planning a trip to Europe since the city has so much to offer. It is one of the oldest cities in Europe - older than Rome. It is the second oldest European capital after Athens. It is thought that the Phoenicians settled the area around 1200 B.C. and possibly that the name "Lisbon" comes from the Phoenician term that means "safe harbor." Portugal's neutrality during World War II saved Lisbon from the destruction suffered by so many other European cities, so most of the historic buildings are original.
All visits to Lisbon should start with "Lisboa Story Centre," a wonderful interactive presentation detailing the history of the city. It is a self-guided tour through the various periods in the city's history, including a multimedia presentation that brings reality to the catastrophic 1755 earthquake.
After learning the history of the city, hop on the Yellow Bus. There are several tour options, but the Tagus Tour is the best first choice. The bus travels along the city's main avenues from the historic center to the monuments of Belem. There are many stops along the way, but an obligatory stop is in the Belem area, where there is a high concentration of historic places. It was from here that Vasco da Gama set sail on his voyage to the Far East.
The iconic white, heavily ornamented Tower of Belem sits at a strategic point on the Tagus River and was built in the early 1500s as part of the defense plan. The architecture is a prime example of Manueline architecture that flourished in the 1500s and celebrated the prosperity of Portugal at the time.
A whole day could be spent in the Belem area. The historic Jeronimos Monastery is one of the most ornate churches in Portugal. Tickets to the Tower of Belem and the Jeronimos Monastery are often combined, but admission to the monastery is free on Sundays, as are several other museums. The nearby National Coach Museum houses royal coaches that are right out of a fairy tale and is now home to the Royal Riding School. You can't miss the impressive Monument to Discoveries that celebrates Portugal's leadership during the European Age of Discovery.
Take note of the airplane statue near the Tower of Belem that commemorates the first trans-Atlantic flight by Sacadura Cabral, who inspired Charles Lindbergh to do the same thing five years later. Near the marina is an unimposing kiosk where you can book a one-hour sail on the Tagus River in a traditionally made wooden sailboat — a must-do.
To get a feel for the "old" Lisbon, head to the Alfama, Lisbon's oldest district, and meander along the maze of narrow streets past some of the city's most important historic buildings, including the Se Cathedral. It is a long, tiring walk up to Castelo di Sao Jorge, the ancient seat of power for more than 400 years, so consider taking a cab. At the top are convenient wine vendors and seats in the embattlements where you can enjoy one of Portugal's fine wines while taking in the expansive view.
The castle dates from the 11th century, during the time Christianity was brought to Portugal. Before 1147 Lisbon was an important Moorish trading post with stronger ties to Africa than Europe. Over the years the kings of Portugal improved and strengthened the castle.
There are many museums in Lisbon from which to choose. Save one morning to visit a museum of the greatest interest to you among those devoted to art, archeology, money, communications, technology, water, and even Portuguese tiles and fado. The fado museum is a good choice if you don't get to a fado restaurant. Fado is uniquely Portuguese. Typically it is a sad song with accompaniment and a dance that is performed at restaurants that serve typical Portuguese cuisine.
A day or half-day trip outside of Lisbon is a must, and the best choice is a trip to Sintra. The half-day tour includes stops in the historic city of Sintra, a World Heritage Site; tour of Pena Palace, an architectural wonder; plus stops at Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe and Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell), a seaside chasm where the water rushes in. Some tours also include Palacio Nacional de Queluz, but I saved this visit to the end of my trip.
Many unique palaces, forts and other historic buildings have been turned into accommodations call pousadas. For my last night I decided I wanted to live like royalty. It is only a15-minute cab ride to Pousada de Queluz opposite the baroque Palacio Nacional de Queluz, the official residence of the Portuguese royal family. The pousada previously housed the Royal Guards. Without a guide or a bus waiting for me I could take my time touring the palace and the gardens, which are extensive.
An indication of what life was like with the royals was brought home by the sumptuous palace rooms and the tile-glazed canal on the garden's lower level where the royals could boat along listening to the royal musicians. Breakfast at the pousada was an elegant white-tablecloth affair, and my dinner at their restaurant, Cozinha Velha (Old Kitchen), was the perfect way to end my stay. As the name infers, the restaurant is in what was once the palace kitchen. Remnants of the original kitchen still remain, including the 20-ton stone prep table that is now the table for the luscious desserts.
WHEN YOU GO
For more information visit www.visitlisboa.com, where they have ebrochures and apps. For pousada stays check www.pousadas.pt/en and sign up for the customer loyalty program for added perks. Portugal is a safe country where many people speak English, especially in the tourist areas. The euro is the currency, plus there are convenient ATMs and credit cards are widely accepted. A good metro system, metered taxis and tuk-tuks will help you get around the city. Rental cars are not recommended due to the traffic and lack of parking. Rush-hour traffic in Lisbon can be heavy, so even though the airport is only a few miles from the city center and Pousada Queluz, it can take 45 minutes to get there during rush hour.
Sandra Scott is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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