By Patricia Arrigoni
For visitors interested in exploring the authentic Old West, a drive west from Phoenix to Wickenburg, Arizona (about 40 miles), north to Yarnell Junction and farther north to the city of Prescott will provide ample opportunity. Spending the night in Prescott in a historic hotel will also furnish a genuine Western experience. It is then possible to drive back to Phoenix in just a couple of hours on state Route 69 and Interstate 17 to complete the adventure. The distance is approximately 75 miles and takes about two hours, depending on traffic and rest stops.
Leave Phoenix on state Route 60 to reach Wickenburg. What used to be a narrow road is now a divided four-lane highway with lovely views of mountains and saguaro cactuses. Arriving in Wickenburg, you will be faced with a tricky round-about. Take the second exit and you will see an overhead sign welcoming you to this old Western town.
Wickenburg is filled with a wide variety of shops selling Native American art, pottery and jewelry. A fine institution, the Desert Caballeros Western Museum, has a stunning collection of paintings, sculpture and an extensive display of the history of this area. The gift shop offers Native American items such as kachina dolls (a carved doll resembling a deified ancestral spirit of the Pueblo people), jewelry, books and other souvenirs.
Take the time to enjoy lunch at Anita's, which provides some of the best Mexican food in Arizona.
The drive up Yarnell Hill on Granite Mountain is 19 miles north of Wickenburg, and just 12 miles beyond the town of Yarnell is the Kirkland Bar and Steak House, a historic Wells Fargo stop for stagecoaches in the 1870s. Proudly displayed by the front door is a bronze plaque proclaiming that the property was designated a National Historical Site in 1998.
Inside is a massive wraparound bar running from the large lounge area to the huge dining room and entertainment stage. Three fireplaces keep the area warm and cozy for patrons.
I was fascinated to learn that the property dates back to 1863. A heavy steel Wells Fargo safe, now encased in cement, can be viewed, as well as a steel transport money box. The safe contains a series of wooden drawers and shelves well worn from bills, gold and silver coins.
Old Western photos on the walls show scenes of what this country was like around 150 years ago. One shows cowboys lined up to patronize a bordello, which the property became in 1880.
By 1905 the old stage stop had been turned into the Railroad Hotel, and in 1912 it became the Hasefeld Mercantile, Bar and Cafe. Local folks of that era would come here to purchase bullets, canned goods and clothing. They could also enjoy a shot of whiskey along with a steak dinner. Hotel rooms were available for the night or by the hour.
The building was used at various times for offices, a theater and a cafe. Its history also includes two devastating fires.
Herb and Barbara Carabeo purchased the property in 1992 and have renovated the entire building. It now has a restaurant and eight hotel rooms (patrons share two bathrooms), including a rather large bedroom with nine bunk beds. The Kirkland Bar and Steakhouse is also known locally to serve the best steaks in the area. Herb, a friendly and welcoming host, is the chef in charge of barbequing steaks that include rib-eyes, New York strips and filet mignon. He cooks exclusively over mesquite wood.
Barbara prepares all the complementary dishes, including appetizers, salads, beans, squaw bread, potatoes and desserts. Other offerings include hamburgers (not frozen), shrimp, chicken and cod. A children's menu includes grilled cheese sandwiches, chicken strips, hamburgers, and steaks plus side orders and desserts.
To drive on up to Prescott, return to Kirkland Junction and turn left on state Route 89. Once the territorial capital of Arizona, Prescott, which is situated at an altitude of 5,346 feet, is a favorite getaway for people living in Phoenix and the Valley of the Sun who want to escape the summer heat.
First settled in 1864, the city was finally incorporated in 1883. It is surrounded by mountain ranges, and the 1.2 million-acre Prescott National Forest offers a variety of outdoor activities. There are also four museums.
My favorite is the Smoki Museum (pronounced smoke-eye), founded in 1935 by citizens who included Sen. Barry Goldwater to honor Native Americans, their culture, art and artifacts. The museum, built of stone and patterned after an early Pueblo structure, contains pottery, baskets, jewelry, ceramics, paintings and clothing.
A famous painting, "Buffalo Dancer" by Kate Cory, one of the founders, is particularly popular. She donated eight of her paintings and her personal photograph album of the time she lived among the Native Americans.
WHEN YOU GO
In Wickenburg, Desert Caballeros Western Museum: www.westernmuseum.org or 928-684-2272.
Anita's Cocina: www.anitascocina.com
To get to the Kirkland Bar and Steakhouse, start in Wickenburg and drive northwest on state Route 93 for six miles to state Route 89. Continue to Kirkland Junction, where there is a gas station and general store if you need help with directions. Turn left and take state Route 96 northwest to 8995 S. Iron Springs Road: www.kirklandbarandsteakhouse or 928-442-3408.
In Prescott, Smoki Museum, www.smokimuseum.org or 928-445-1230.
The Hassayampa Inn opened in 1927 near the Courthouse Square and Whiskey Row. This restored red-brick structure has been considered the classiest hotel in this part of the state since the earliest part of the 20th century. Its 67 rooms display historic ambience with extensive antique furnishings. Diners enjoy linens on the table and a hot breakfast served in covered dishes. Besides several banquet rooms, guests enjoy the Rooftop Terrace, which provides views of the city, Thumb Butte and the Bradshaw Mountains. Rates are from $89 up: www.hassayampainn.com, 928-778-9434 or 800-322-1927.
Hotel Vendome, a 1917 hotel also in the downtown area within walking distance of the Yavapai County Courthouse, is owned by Eric and Stephanie Marichal. They purchased the property in August 2010 and were married the following month. The property contains 20 guestrooms, all individually decorated, a bar/lounge and library. A complimentary continental breakfast is provided daily, and an upstairs veranda and downstairs patio offer guests places to relax and share a bottle of wine. This hotel is most famous for being haunted, especially in room 16, where the ghost of former owner Abby Byr and her cat, Noble, are said to reside: www.vendomehotel.com, 928-776-0900, 866-460-7456 or 888-468-3583.
The Motor Lodge, which began as summer cabins called the Motor Inn Motel (circa 1910), has been reinvented by Joe Livingston and Brian Spear, who purchased the property in 2008. Located three blocks south of the courthouse, the lodge is close to downtown but away from the heaviest crowds. Most rooms have private porches, gas fireplaces and covered private parking. Rooms start at $79. A friend who stays there told me that guests are offered wine or beer when they check in and given a small bag of chocolate chip cookies when they depart: www.themotorlodge.com or 928-717-0157.
Patricia Arrigoni is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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