Could this be you?
You're an avid hiker who loves Yosemite National Park. But you've had it up to here with the swarming crowds that besiege the valley during peak summer months.
What you need is a way to experience the serenity and magnificent landscapes of the Yosemite High Country. The problem is, you're not keen on lugging a 50-pound backpack, dining on dehydrated chicken tettrazinni and sleeping on the ground.
Here's the answer to your conundrum — the Yosemite High Sierra Camps: five tented enclaves situated 5.7-10 miles apart in some of the most beautiful areas the park has to offer. And the only way you can get there is by foot or on mule back. So you will definitely not be running into the type of tourists that never venture more than a quarter of a mile from their Winnebagos.
You'll spend your days on the trail, carrying only a daypack containing your clothes, toiletries, bedding (a sleep sack), ample water and a hearty lunch. Then after a hard day of hiking your reward will be a real bed in a tent cabin with a wood burning stove that sleeps two (or as many as six); a surprisingly fine dinner prepared by a jovial staff; in several camps a hot shower; and finally, a nice crackling campfire. Plus, if you're a fisherman, bring in those trout you snagged along the way, and the folks in the kitchen will cook 'em up for you.
Because of their popularity, reservations for the High Sierra Camps are selected by a lottery that takes place in December. (See details below). But in April, because of cancellations, a large number of reservations become available. If you can be flexible about when you travel, this is the ideal time to make plans for a High Sierra Camp adventure.
Some of the most spectacular hiking I've ever experienced has been on these trails, especially during wildflower season in early August. But make no mistake. These hikes are strenuous — both for their distance, the steepness of the ascents, and their elevation gain, which (at the highest point) is well over 10,000 feet. So you need to be in shape.
The first, and largest of the camps was created on Merced Lake (21 miles from the valley floor) in 1916. Vogelsang, Glen Aulin and May Lake followed in 1924, 1927 and 1938. The final camp, Sunrise, above the Cathedral Lakes basin, opened in 1961.
There are several ways to visit the High Sierra Camps: on your own; as part of a ranger-guided trip; or by saddle trip. I've hiked the trails on my own and with a ranger.
Hiking between High Sierra Camps on your own offers you the freedom to move at your own pace, take side trips, fish, even enjoy a nap or a swim after lunch. The advantage of the 4 and 7-day ranger-guided trips (especially for families) is the educational component. During your days on the trail you learn all about the history and ecology of Yosemite National Park- from the great granite-eroding glaciers that carved the valley, to the current threat from air pollution that rises up from California's nearby Central Valley.
Each High Sierra Camp has its own personality and unique location. And for convenience, most visitors use the lodge at Tuolumne Meadows as a jumping off point.
May Lake (at an elevation of 9,270 feet) is by far the easiest of the camps to hike to; just over two miles from the parking lot trail head. It's 8 tent cabins are spread out among tall pines on the shore of the May Lake and look across to the rising escarpment of Mount Hoffman. For less ambitious hikers and families with young children, May Lake is the ideal destination. It's peacefulness personified.
Eight miles of trail separates May Lake from Glen Aulin on the Merced River. Its eight cabins are situated at the base of a rushing waterfall where you can swim in the frigid water. Unfortunately, Glen Aulin does not offer hot showers.
A short walk from camp, however, it does offer one of the most spectacular overlooks in the entire park — the Grand Canyon of the Merced River. Follow the trail another five miles and you come to Waterwheel Falls. Here the rushing force of the river encounters clefts in the rock that cause the water to plume back on itself in a series of "waterwheels" which can jet 30 feet into the air.
Like the hub of a wheel, Tuolumne Meadows offers hikers the option of heading off to several different camps. The highest of these is Vogelsang, whose 12 cabins nestle below Fletcher Peak at 10,300 feet. A short walk from camp there's a vantage point where you can look all the way back down the trail to Tuolumne Meadows, and all the way to Half Dome and Yosemite Valley below.
Other trails out of Tuolumne Meadows lead to Glen Aulin and to the Sunrise High Sierra Camp. Perched on a rocky bluff, the trail to Sunrise winds its way past the grandeur of Cathedral Peak and its shimmering chain of lakes. During the summer the sun heats the rocks around Sunrise. And at night you can lie on the warm stones and watch shooting stars blaze their way across the ribbon of the Milky Way.
Whether you choose to take on the challenge of hiking the entire loop trail that connects all five High Sierra Camps, or just spend a night or two at one, the visual impact of the landscape and the hospitality of the camps will stay with you for a lifetime.
For information about last-minute bookings, call the High Sierra Reservations Desk at 801-559-4909. Online at www.YosemitePark.com, or write, Yosemite Reservations, 6771 N. Palm Avenue, Fresno, CA 93704.
IF YOU GO
The camps:
Glen Aulin — 8 cabins, total occupancy 32.
May Lake — 8 cabins, total occupancy 36.
Sunrise Camp — 9 cabins, total occupancy 34.
Merced Lake — 19 cabins, total occupancy 60.
Vogelsang — 12 cabins, total occupancy 42.
Lodging is in canvas tent cabins with dormitory-style steel frame beds with mattresses, pillows, woolen blankets or comforters. Every effort is made to keep members of a party in the same tent(s). But due to size limitations and the popularity of the camps, it is sometimes necessary to split up groups by gender or house multiple parties in one tent.
Hot showers (except at Vogelsang and Glen Aulin), soap and restroom facilities are available; however, guests must provide their own sheets or sleep-sacks and towels. Sleep-sacks and Trek Towels can be purchased by mail order through DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite for confirmed High Camp Guests.
Dinner and breakfast are served family-style in a main dining tent. Vegetarian options are also available.
GUIDED HIKING TRIPS
Organized four- and seven-day hiking trips are led by National Park Service Ranger Naturalists, providing hikers with a deeper understanding of Yosemite and its natural history. Guided hikes depart from the Tuolumne Meadows Lodge front desk. The seven-day hike travels the entire loop, spending one night at each camp with time for rest and exploration. There is also a Guided Mini Loop Trip that includes a hike to Vogelsang, two nights at Merced Lake, and one night at Sunrise.
— 7-Day Guided Hike: $1,165. Trips depart every Monday, Tuesday and Friday, July 5-Sept. 5. Trips visit each Yosemite High Sierra Camp and are led by a National Park Service naturalist.
— Mini-loop Guided Hike: $825. Trips depart every Friday, July 8-Sept. 2. Trips last five days and visit Vogelsang, Merced Lake and Sunrise.
ORGANIZED SADDLE TRIPS
Organized four-, five- and six-day saddle trips depart from the Tuolumne Stables and are led by experienced guides/packers who feed and care for the stock, pack all gear and describe Park features along the way. Mules carry riders on these trips. A maximum of 225 lbs. per saddle can be carried, including the rider.
Four-Day Saddle Trip: $832. Trips depart on Saturdays and Wednesdays from July 6-Sept. 3. Saturday departures spend one night each at Sunrise, Merced Lake and Vogelsang. Wednesday departures enjoy one night each at Glen Aulin, May Lake and Sunrise.
Six-Day Saddle Trip: $1,315. Trips depart every Sunday from July 10-Aug. 28. Trips visit the five Yosemite High Sierra Camps for one night each.
For information on saddle trips: (209) 372-8348.
2009 Reservations, Rates and Availability: Due to high demand, spaces at the High Sierra Camps are reserved on a lottery basis. Applications may be requested Sept. 1-Nov. 20 for the following summer season by calling 801-559-4909 or visiting www.YosemitePark.com. Applications will only be accepted Nov. 1-30 and must be on the official Yosemite High Sierra Camp Lottery Application. Applications received before or after these dates and those faxed or photocopied will not be accepted. The lottery is held in mid-December, and all applicants are notified of their standing by late February.
Rates: Tuolumne Meadows Lodge (Canvas Tent): $82. Additional adults, $10; additional children, $6. Includes linens and towels, but not daily housekeeping.
High Sierra Camps: $136. Includes lodging, breakfast and dinner. Rate is $2 less at Vogelsang and Glen Aulin.
Meals Only: $35.75. Backpackers not staying in the High Sierra Camp tents may apply by lottery for dinner and breakfast as "meals-only guests." A small number of spaces are available daily at each camp. Includes breakfast and dinner. Sack Lunches: $10.50.
CANCELLATIONS
Cancellations do occur and some spaces remain unfilled throughout the season. Available spaces after April 1 are filled by telephone on a first-come, first-served basis. For information about last-minute bookings, call the High Sierra Reservations Desk at 801-559-4909. Online at www.YosemitePark.com, or write, Yosemite Reservations, 6771 N. Palm Avenue, Fresno, CA 93704.
Jim Farber is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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