Pound for Pound: London on the Cheap

By Travel Writers

February 5, 2017 11 min read

By Sharon Whitley Larsen and Carl H. Larsen

"We would love to visit London! But isn't it expensive?"

That's what we hear often from friends who know how much we love this historic, famous city of 8.5 million — our most favorite in the world.

And, yes, London can be expensive, with some outrageous hotel prices at times averaging $500 per night.

But after 30 visits here (Carl's first at age 13, Sharon's at 19 — and with subsequent trips once or twice a year the past two decades) we Anglophiles have learned to have a "royal" stay on a pint budget. From Airbnb to B&Bs, from hostels to hotels, from single room to university dorm rentals, there are many options to "Mind the Budget Gap."

"Travel while you can" has always been our motto — you can't afford not to! And there's always a way to make it happen. Even in London. And especially with the recent Brexit referendum, this is a good time to visit, with one of the best exchange rates from dollars to pounds in years.

With Oyster cards (a must-have to board city buses and the underground) in hand, we have explored this fascinating city where we recently spent three weeks gathering some inexpensive tips to pass on.

There are hotel chains — such as Holiday Inn Express, Travelodge and Premier Inn — that offer comfortable, clean rooms at value prices, but you often have to book well ahead and risk losing your deposit if your plans change. If you can find a room for less than $150 a night, we consider that a good value, especially if breakfast is included. And remember the adage: Location, location, location! That cheap room you found may be a long bus or subway ride away from the theater district or museums.

Whether flying into Gatwick or Heathrow, we advise friends to spend the first night near the airport at a less-pricey hotel (about $100 per night with breakfast) while recovering from jet lag. Gatwick is five minutes from Horley, a town filled with B&Bs. Once you arrive at the airport you phone the B&B owners, who will pick you up. (We've stayed at the Lawn Guest House several times and recommend it.) The following day you can take the train in to London.

On occasion we have even had $30 rooms at the Travelodge in Feltham (near Heathrow — booked well in advance, no cancellation refund), which is conveniently by a Wetherspoon restaurant (more about that in a minute), grocery and the train station.

Bernard Hunt, a London native who now resides in Las Vegas, has traveled the world. And he loves staying in hostels. But, he's quick to point out, "Hostels today are not like they used to be. It used to be that there were rules — you had to be up and out by a certain time, more like a jail. They used to be called Youth Hostels. Today there are no more rules or wardens — just a pleasant, smiling staff. There are kitchens, laundry, a common room with TV, single rooms, dorm rooms, en suite rooms. They are comfortable and clean and the average rate is about $30 a night. My wife and I love staying in these — we meet young people from around the world."

The hostels range from about $12 (bed and shower, bring your own towel) to $25 per night when Hunt travels solo "with four of us in four bedrooms, baths on each floor" to $60 a night for a shared two-bedroom en suite. He has stayed in several London hostels — such as Palmers Lodge (Swiss Cottage), Abercorn House (Hammersmith) and "my favorite for the price "— the London Eye (Lambeth), a converted pub. He highly recommends them.

Amy Laughinghouse, an American journalist based in London, raves about Generator London, "one of the U.K.'s capital's hottest hipster hangouts — a new generation of hostel inside a former police station. The 868-bed property underwent a massive makeover in 2013." The rates for shared rooms start at about $27 — for private about $109 — per night.

Laughinghouse also recommends At Home in London for "affordable B&B-type accommodations (in private homes in good neighborhoods). Maggie, who runs the business, is a sweetheart."

Other friends have stayed at the Penn Club, located near the British Museum. Available to nonmembers, rooms range from about $90 per night for a top-floor budget single to about $172 per night, en suite double (rates for members are less).

Sometimes staying just outside London can save a bundle. If a visit to Windsor Castle is on your agenda, the Holiday Inn Express Slough (about $50 to $125 per room) is a great choice. The hotel is right next to the train station, with Windsor a five-minute ride away. London's Paddington Station is only 30 minutes away by frequent commuter trains.

Dining out can quickly blow a budget. For inexpensive restaurants, we like the Wetherspoon chain, which offers good food in renovated historic buildings (one is conveniently across the street from the Tower of London, another in Leicester Square). A traditional English breakfast — fried egg, bacon, sausage, baked beans, hash browns, tomato, slice of toast — is served until noon for about $5. Delicious eggs Benedict is about $6. It's also a good place for lunch or dinner, with daily specials. Chains like Subway, Pret a Manger and Starbucks serve inexpensive items. And there's a huge Whole Foods near Kensington Palace with a variety of restaurants.

The city's great museums (many are free) and department stores, such as Marks & Spencer, Selfridges, John Lewis and Debenhams, also have inexpensive cafes with good food. Carl still craves the hot salmon salad he devoured at Marks & Spencer. (For a splurge it's fun to have lunch in Harrods' food court.)

Cafe in the Crypt underneath historic St. Martin-in-the-Fields church on Trafalgar Square has good, hearty, inexpensive food that is served daily. It's a popular spot for tourists and locals. The church also offers free ($5 donation suggested) concerts most weekdays at 1 p.m. with esteemed visiting musicians. Evening concerts (priced from about $12) and jazz concerts in the Crypt (less than $20) are also well worth attending.

For theater tickets, discounted (up to half off) can be purchased at the Leicester Square booth for that day's performance as well as a few days in advance, depending on availability.

The London Pass offers admission to more than 60 popular tourist sites, such as the Tower of London, Westminster Abbey, Churchill War Rooms and Museum, Windsor Castle and a Thames River cruise. Available for one, two, three or six consecutive days, the prices range from about $74 to $162 per adult, less for children. It's estimated that if you visit just three daily attractions you can save around $25 each day in admission prices — as well as skip ticket lines.

And we just discovered on our last trip that it's more economical to take a water taxi cruise up or down the Thames versus the more expensive narrated boat tours.

As you can see, there are bargains to be found - even in London. Cheers, mate!

WHEN YOU GO

Hotels:

Travelodge UK: www.travelodge.co.uk

Premier Inn: www.hotels.uk.com/premier+inn-hotels

Holiday Inn Express: www.ihg.com/hotels/us/en/hd/united-kingdom-hotels

At Home in London: www.athomeinlondon.co.uk

Penn Club: www.pennclub.co.uk

Hostels: www.hostelworld.com

Palmers Lodge (Swiss Cottage): www.palmerslodges.com

The London Eye Hostel, Lambeth: www.londoneyehostel.com/facilities.html Generator London: www.generatorhostels.com/en/destinations/london

Horley B&Bs (near Gatwick): http://www.bedandbreakfast-directory.co.uk/uploads/html1/England%5cto-surrey-horley.htm

The Lawn Guest House: www.lawnguesthouse.co.uk

Restaurants:

Cafe in the Crypt: www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org/cafe-in-the-crypt Wetherspoon: www.jdwetherspoon.co.uk

Wahaca (if you crave Mexican food): www.wahaca.co.uk

Other information:

Leicester Square discounted theater tickets: www.tkts.co.uk/leicester-square

St. Martin-in-the-Fields concerts: www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org/music/concerts The London Pass, Oyster cards, BritRail info and other discounted travel and sightseeing passes: www.visitbritainshop.com/usa/the-london-sightseeing-pass

Thames River taxi cruise: www.visitlondon.com/traveller-information/getting-around-london/riverboat#3x1ZuyyQYBdVVrCH.97 and www.thamesclippers.com/route-time-table/prices

A fun London souvenir, Cath Kidston handbags and other goodies are available at U.K. shops, Heathrow or Gatwick airports, or online: www.cathkidston.com

For more information: www.visitbritain.com, www.visitengland.com and www.visitlondon.com

 With a population of 8.5 million, London is a most fascinating, historic city that has many bargains available for tourists today. Photo courtesy of Sharon Whitley Larsen.
With a population of 8.5 million, London is a most fascinating, historic city that has many bargains available for tourists today. Photo courtesy of Sharon Whitley Larsen.
 The Tower of London is one of London's most famous tourist spots; some 2.5 million visit it annually. Photo courtesy of Sharon Whitley Larsen.
The Tower of London is one of London's most famous tourist spots; some 2.5 million visit it annually. Photo courtesy of Sharon Whitley Larsen.
 Author Sharon Whitley Larsen enjoys the company of the famed Beefeaters — or Yeoman Warders —following a Trooping the Colour ceremony. Photo courtesy of Carl Larsen.
Author Sharon Whitley Larsen enjoys the company of the famed Beefeaters — or Yeoman Warders —following a Trooping the Colour ceremony. Photo courtesy of Carl Larsen.

Sharon Whitley Larsen and Carl H. Larsen are freelance travel writers. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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