Despite the fact that it's an unlikely grape to be so well-liked, cabernet sauvignon has been the most popular red wine in the United States for the last 40 years. It is a superb grape variety that has a few attributes that allow it to produce remarkably long-lived red wines that patient people expect will deliver extraordinary charms and can be among the finest older red wines ever made.

Included in this category are the great wines of Bordeaux, many of which are produced from cabernet sauvignon as well as its cousin varieties that add complexity.

One reason is that the variety's wines have high levels of tannin, an astringency that gives the wine such harshness when it is young that it typically is like trying to drink a liquid with alum added.

People have described it as licking sandpaper. And there are plenty of people who find virtually any cabernet to be so off-putting that they won't drink it.

And I imagine that some cabernet buyers really don't like it much because of its structure and raspy mouthfeel, but who buy it because they love the flavors and enjoy it as long as it is paired with protein foods that reduce the astringency.

(Cheaper versions of cabernet may not be astringent, but in most cases the winery "manufactured" the wine to remove the tannins, along with some acidity, thus softening and even sweetening it.)

I have always believed that the alternatives to cabernet have rarely been exposed to buyers, so it continues to be a love/hate experience for many.

The alternative for decades was merlot - a wonderful substitute because it is part of the so-called Bordeaux family of grapes. It is similar to cabernet, offering aromatics that can be like the primary variety, but with lower tannins.

But cabernet lovers who are looking for a unique experience have another alternative that few people know much about. It is one of the parents of cabernet sauvignon (the other is sauvignon blanc) and it is becoming far more popular today in the upper echelons of wine consumption.

Cabernet franc is its name. It's quite similar to cabernet sauvignon with several additional traits that make it much more approachable. For one thing, it's less tannic. It can also be a bit more exotic, while offering imported versions that are well-priced, interesting and perfect for pairing with a wider variety of foods.

It is extremely popular as a red wine in France's Loire Valley, where it is the primary red wine grape. Almost no cabernet sauvignon grows there. But most Americans don't know much about Loire Valley reds, preferring the whites,

Loire wine districts with names like Chinon (shee-nown), Bourgueil (bore gay), Saumur (sow moor) and Anjou (ahn-zhoo) all make red wine from cabernet franc. They may be identified by the names of the districts listed here; some producers may not use "cabernet franc" anywhere on the label.

I adore many of these wines with grilled salmon and other medium-weight dishes that might be obliterated by many cabernet sauvignons.

In an upcoming column, I'll mention the resurgence of this variety in California and how some local wineries are getting really excited about it.

Wine of the Week: 2023 Olga Raffault Chinon, "La Fraich" ($23) — There is a charming red-cherry aroma about this delightful wine that, after aeration, displays a slightly rustic character. Continues to improve in the glass over time and it is a wonderful wine to pair with lighter foods. It has none of the harsh tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Dan Berger lives in Sonoma County, Calif., where he publishes "Vintage Experiences," a weekly wine newsletter. Write to him at [email protected].

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