For roughly the last 30 years, most California wines have had alcohol levels that were too high for me. I was reared when most of the wines in the world were about 12.5% alcohol; anything higher was considered to be absurd.

Critics at the time said that a wine with 14% alcohol was outrageous — a late-harvest wine designed to be soft and clumsy.

Of course, wine must have some alcohol, by definition. Without it, we have grape juice, which fails to deliver the sublime elements we seek to pair with foods. Some wines are typically low in alcohol, but the lower you go, the more likely the wine is to have a bit of sugar.

Some German rieslings have alcohol levels of about 10% or even lower.

It wasn't until the 1990s that a few table wines, mainly California reds, reached as high as 14% alcohol. The only exceptions were a few zinfandels that were in the vinous stratosphere at 15% or more. A handful of such wines came out that were called "late-harvest."

Today later picking has resulted in more grape sugar. Since fermentation converts sugar into alcohol (and carbon dioxide), wine alcohols are regularly above 14%, and many are closer to 15%. Since any wine over 14% alcohol can legally be a full point higher, I'm not surprised when I try wines that taste a lot more alcoholic than their labels state.

There are many different methods for producing lower-alcohol wines, which appear to be popular among many consumers today. One method is to add water. And it's easier for wineries to add water today than it once was. A 2002 ruling by the state of California eased controls on water additions.

Another idea is to use machines to remove alcohol. Several processes have been developed to achieve this, including a technique called reverse osmosis, as well as a machine known as a Spinning Cone.

The Spinning Cone has been around for decades and does a fine job of removing alcohol from wine. Several brands now exist that are "alcohol removed" products.

Alcohol removal seems like it's tinkering with nature, but alcohol has an aroma that obscures wine flavors. To see this, pour a glass of tap water and add a jigger of vodka. Then smell. The water with vodka will have a strong aroma of alcohol, which has nothing to do with grapes.

And yet some people persist in praising wines with high alcohol. Perhaps they have cast-iron stomachs. Or a lifetime supply of Tums.

Nothing prevents wine consumers from making their wines taste a little better by adding a splash of water. Wines that taste harsh or "hot" can occasionally be fixed by simply adding a teaspoon or two of water to the wine glass.

I have a personal vendetta against wines with high alcohol. I usually dislike them. But every now and then, I get a glass that has too much alcohol and my only recourse, besides not drinking any of it, is to add a splash of water.

Wine of the Week: 2024 Weingut Erich & Maria Berger Gruner Veltliner, Austria ($13/1 liter) — Gruner Veltliner is Austria's best white wine. This quality producer has always made an authentic version at a bargain price. The aroma has traces of green apple and pear and it is not totally dry, but with only 12.5% alcohol, it is suitable as an aperitif or with light seafood dishes. At this price, a 1-liter bottle is like getting an extra one-third of a bottle without charge. (I am not related to this brand.)

To find out more about Sonoma County resident Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate webpage at www.creators.com.

Photo credit: Gilbert Pagunaling at Unsplash