Grilling Wines by Robert Whitley on Creators.com

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Grilling Wines

As Memorial Day, the official kickoff to the outdoor barbecue season, looms in the not-too-distant future, it's not too soon to ponder the wines of summer, aka grilling wines.

The caveat here is that no matter the season, no matter the cuisine, you should drink the wines that give you the most pleasure. That said, there are certain aspects of summer dining that are elevated by certain wines.

First and foremost is the heat. Heavier red wines can seem dull and overpowering in warmer weather because alcohol and tannin tend to stand out as the ambient temperature climbs. You may want to stick with that big, bold cabernet when serving up a thick steak, and that's fine. But I would put a chill on the wine first. Ten minutes in an ice bucket will do wonders for a tannic red wine on a hot day.

The alternative is something lighter, such as Chianti classico, barbera or a red-Rhone blend (these are wines made from a blend of grapes prominent in France's Rhone Valley, such as syrah, grenache, mourvedre and carignan). The beauty of these wines, and the reason they go so well with grilled meats, is their savory character, which pairs nicely with the smoky, earthy aromas from the grill.

Grilled fish and vegetables often generate a thirst for summer white wines, and there again a savory characteristic can be important. Sauvignon blanc can be a star in this arena. Many are pungent and savory, with nuances of dried herbs, and often a slightly vegetal note goes well with — surprise, surprise — grilled veggies. Sauvignon blanc that tends to show more citrus fruit aroma plays especially well with fish.

Ordinarily I wouldn't recommend chardonnay with this type of cuisine, but Chablis (100 percent chardonnay from the coolest, most northern district of Burgundy) is produced largely without the use or influence of oak barrels and thus is a mineral- and fruit-driven chardonnay that will have the weight on the palate to handle firm fish such as grilled mahi-mahi and swordfish.

For salmon lovers, the grill and a bottle of earthy pinot noir, whether from Burgundy or the New World, are an ideal match that is truly crowd-pleasing.

Though pinot noir typically won't be as tannic as a big cabernet, it too will benefit from a slight chill on a hot day.

BEST VALUE

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Royal Tokaji 2011 Furmint, Tokaji, Hungary ($16) — Furmint is Hungary's primary white grape and usually a major force in the country's renowned sweet wines.

When made in a dry style, as this one is, it is a pure delight on the palate, elegant and flavorful without being weighty or cloying. The fresh, clean Furmint from Royal Tokaji is lightly floral and honeyed on the nose, with aromas of gooseberry, citrus and ripe pear on the palate. Rating: 91.

TASTING NOTES

Patz & Hall 2010 Pinot Noir, Chenoweth Ranch, Russian River Valley ($58) — There is always much talk in the wine industry about the benefit of old vines. Patz & Hall's Chenoweth Ranch Pinot Noir could make the case for young vines, for this relatively new vineyard was planted in 2000 by longtime viticulturist Charlie Chenoweth.

Maybe what it really says is that the site of the vineyard is inherently more important than the age of the vines. This is a stunning vintage from this rapidly emerging vineyard, which may well be the best pinot site in the entire Patz & Hall stable. While a bit high in alcohol-by-volume (it's pushing 15 percent), the 2010 Chenoweth Ranch Pinot exhibits exquisite balance and layers of ripe red fruits, with a floral nuance and notes of spice. This is one eye-popping New World pinot that is sure to wow the most discriminating palates. Rating: 97.

Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 'Piano di Montevergine' Taurasi Riserva DOCG, Campania, Italy ($69) — This vintage of Piano di Montevergine is a Taurasi that demonstrates the profound complexity of aglianico grown in the unique soils of Campania. The vineyard site, at approximately 1,200 feet of elevation, produces a massively structured red wine capable of aging two decades or more. The 2007 exhibits luscious aromas of blackberry, plum and tart cherry, with mouthwatering acidity, firm backbone, and hints of fennel and fresh herbs. This is a wine to be cellared and savored. Rating: 96.

Masut 2011 Pinot Noir, Block 11, Mendocino County ($55) — For those of us who prize structured pinot noir that runs against the tide of overly sweet, extracted pinots, Masut's Block 11 is a treasure of modesty and subtlety. Light in color, this vintage of Block 11 exhibits aromas of black cherry and raspberry with a hint of spice. On the palate the wine is fresh and crisp, with mouthwatering acidity, and more flavor than its pale color would suggest. Rating: 91.

Col d'Orcia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, ($55) - Col d'Orcia Brunello is one of the class wines of the Montalcino district, often a profound wine that can be cellared for 20 years or more. The 2007 vintage is very, very good, but just misses that top rung it sometimes achieves, the place where collectible Brunellos live. The '07 is on the lighter side, with fresh acidity and pleasing cherry and plum notes. The tannins are firm even at six years of age. This is a wine that is likely to reach peak in the next two to three years. Drink it, and enjoy over the near term. Rating: 90.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators website at www.creators.com.