The readers always write. A few have responded to my recent column on 10 things I would like to see in 2010.

Stephen D. McKimmey is right there with me in the lament that prices for classified-growth Bordeaux are beyond ridiculous.

Said Stephen:

"Boy, do I agree with you on Bordeaux. My attitude is: Why do I want to spend $300-plus on a bottle of wine when I can get excellent wines from Napa, Sonoma, Central Coast, etc., that are every bit as good (if not better) for half the price? I'd love to try some of the great names of Bordeaux, but the price is prohibitive. Perhaps the millionaires from China will fill the void, but I think their day in the sun may be over for now."

I wouldn't be surprised if the Asian markets suddenly went soft on Bordeaux because of the worldwide economic downturn, but I'm not counting on it. Wines from the most famous Bordeaux chateaux — Petrus, Lafite, Latour, Margaux, et al. — have become status symbols; a sad fact that transcends any relationship price might have to quality or value.

The wines at the top end have dragged the price of all classified-growth Bordeaux to new heights so that even once reliable "value" wines, such as Lynch-Bages, Canon-la-Gaffeliere and Pichon-Lalande, are out of the range of most wine enthusiasts.

Savvy wine lovers, such as Stephen, have excellent red-wine alternatives in the wines of California, Washington, Oregon and the stalwarts of the southern hemisphere: Australia, Argentina and Chile. I have made the same choice, although my emotional attachment to Bordeaux remains strong.

Hence, I am now on a quest to discover Bordeaux flying under the radar at attractive prices. A couple that come to mind are Chateau Mazeris ($19) of Canon-Fronsac and Chateau de Bel-Air ($15) of Lalande de Pomerol. Both are dedicated to high quality, yet neither has the cachet to command aggressive pricing.

Thrace Bromberger weighed in on my beef about the oversized 750ml bottles that are designed to make you believe the wine in the bottle must be at least as impressive as the bottle itself.

Said Thrace:

"I also find the oversize bottles so anti-green that it floors me that any winery that calls itself "green" still uses them. Also, look at pressure sensitive labels. The backing for them can't be recycled, yet how many "green" wineries are using those vs. the old glue-style labels?

She makes a good point, although my primary objection remains the storage issue. Many of these fat, heavy 750ml bottles simply won't fit into the slots built into a standard wine-racking system.

Considering the fact that the package seems to suggest the wine might be a collectible, and one a wine aficionado might consider laying down in the cellar, it would seem to make more sense to use bottles that actually conform to the dimensions of the average wine rack.

Then there is Bob Turrell with one of our most frequently asked questions: I have an old wine and wonder if it's still any good?

Said Bob:

"I would like to ask a question about a bottle of 1973 Dom Perignon that I received as a gift about 30 years ago. It has either been in my cellar back in New York, or in a wine refrigerator in California or here in Scottsdale, Ariz., where I currently reside. The bottle is in very clean condition. However, I do not know whether or not it has retained its flavor or liveliness."

Can you tell me if there is any way to tell if this champagne is still drinkable? If it can be found that it is still good, would it be advisable to sell it, or to drink it now "

I told Bob what I've written many times before: Dom Perignon, when stored properly, ages very well. It is built for the long haul, and because of that is sometimes underestimated in its youth. The 1973 vintage was outstanding for Dom, and a few years ago I had the pleasure to drink the '73, which was superb at the time.

You could probably fetch $400 to $600 from a collector for this vintage of Dom, but my recommendation was to drink up and enjoy. That's exactly what Bob did, which he informed me in a subsequent e-mail. And he thanked me for the advice!

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Domaine de Nizas 2006 Vieilles Vignes Carignan, Vin de Pays de Caux, France ($16) — Impressed as I was by this estate's Le Mas Rouge, the Carignan is even better. This wine exhibits aromas of red fruit and dried herbs, is well- balanced, and possesses scintillating minerality. It is produced from 50-year-old Carignan vines, the age no doubt contributing to low yields and enhanced flavor intensity. In the realm of red wines for less than $20, this one looms large. Rating: 91.

TASTING NOTES

Graham's Six Grapes Reserve Port, Portugal ($22) — With Valentine's Day just around the corner, wine enthusiasts should be locking in on that special bottle for someone special. Without going out on too much of a limb, I believe it's safe to say Graham's Six Grapes is the closest any vintage character ruby Port comes to the real deal, which would be vintage Port — at three to five times the price. Most vintage character Ports have plenty of aroma and flavor, but lack the structure of vintage Port. Graham's Six Grapes is the exception, delivering a richly layered, complex red dessert wine with satisfying grip (from the smooth tannins) on the back end. The Six Grapes I sampled recently offered lovely plum and cherry aromas, hints of spice and the essence of mocha — perfect to accompany Valentine's chocolates! Rating: 90.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.